crispy_wafer

Temperature fluctuations, would be my assumption, but run your fingers around the manifold at pipe entry points, bleed points etc, for any sign of moisture?

Following on from my previous adventures of connecting the new build to the lash up that was the septic tanks of the old bungalow. The recent rain and increased ground water has shown a few flaws in the whole system. I'm going to have to bite the bullet, open my wallet and put in a treatment plant. Bearing in mind this was something I didn't really want to get involved with, I'm starting with a blank sheet and not sure where to start. All I know is - 4 bed property, 3 occupants, want it to be pumped due to ground levels and seasonal water table - we are on relatively slow draining ground, Approx 40m to a watercourse. Invert about 600mm give or take. It just needs to work, and not cost too much upfront. I will be doing the digging and install. So, with 5 minutes of looking I'd been drawn to the Rewatec/conder ASP units and, I've been in touch with the local civils supplies company and they can do me a pumped Bioficient 1 Pumped & PPFDS & HLA. I'm open to suggestions for other units too if you like. Please can you help me with some feature points and things I should look at to make comparisons, and suggestions if you have any?

Hoping these may help someone in the future. Days 1/2/3 of my build.

Site conditions, insulation could vary in thickness, not all uniform in dimensions, doesn't need to be much, but 5mm over 50m2 could make a difference, camber, or depression on the b&b floor. It's not my day job, so how much volume the pipes take at 150mm centres doesn't bother me too much, my arse wont get kicked for qty mistake. Too much thinking to be done about what I've got on in the office tomorrow, buying plumbing supplies, and why I should buy one treatment plant over another...

Yes, going back to the original quote 7.5 @70mm, I dare say would have ended up with (finger in the air) about 9 cube or so. I guess that would have been about a 20% uplift, quite a bit really...

Off plan they quoted approx 6 cube at 55mm, but I increased the depth to 60mm, and I knew I had some lower spots on the floor that needed a bit more screed. That was where the builders had stacked pallets of blocks of all things, only upset the camber on the beams by 5mm or so, but it all needs filling in I guess, so I'm quite content with that. I'll just need to eat bread and water for another couple of months after completion.

🤣 touches wood, I certainly hope to never see any of it again...

It's cemfloor so this one is cement based. It looks good, but the proof is when you need to start the finish flooring, I would think there is likely to be the odd high spot/low spot but nothing that cannot be dealt with adhoc. I'm going to be bonding engineered wood to it, so just a little bit more forgiving than karndean - which I would think needs billiard table smooth. I've given myself 25 - 30mm to the underside of the front door so bags of room 🤣. All in all, it was 7 and a bit cube.

Screed is in courtesy of the mother of all screed wagons, my boy loved wading through the muck as it was being poured in, not sure if it's good practice to advertise the company or not, but if anyone needs a recommendation for a volumetric supplier in the lincoln area just ask.

I think you are going great guns here, and I for one appreciate this thread, thankyou. It's going to be so much help for me, who, probably isnt quite so brave to ask questions, advice and show my work.

Yes, true, speak to BC.

full fill with beads or full fill with mineral wool, may even cost less than PIR as well Also, get onto U-value calculator | ubakus.com and have a play

Similar floor buildup as what I've got in progress. Block and beam, 150mm of PIR, 60mm screed at the front door threshold - which is 15mm from memory. I just went with what the door manufacturer recommended, in reality I should have waited and perhaps specified a slighty larger threshold. When measured from the top of PIR to bottom of the door I have about 85mm so I've got a good 25mm for flooring depending on how flush I want the flooring to be. I've settled on recessing a mat at the door opening, and glue down bamboo flooring @ 14/15mm so should work out ok. Depending on thickness of mat I will grind out 5-10mm from the screed.

Thought I'd add some photo's now that job's just about jobbed

Personally, I don't think that would be an issue, if it all fits, and you can push/pull through without bother and it stops the pipes being scratched/scored when pulling through something abrasive then all good. maybe the quote is coming from the angle that when doing plumbing you are likely to have excess or offcuts of plumbing waste pipes to hand so that's what's used at the time as conduit.

Was too excited to get filling and pressuring that I missed one or two nuts when tightening up the manifold and pump. 🤣 Was like a scene out of one the old submarine movies spraying water everywhere whilst reaching for the off tap with one hand and the grips with the other. chalk it down to experience...

I've put it off for as long as I could really, I put the UFH down last week, pressurised it overnight. No pipe leaks, Just a slight weep at the pressure test gauge so bitten the bullet and ordered the screed in, then I can get the Staircase sorted and that will be me done spending money till next year, will give everything time to dry out (my excuse!)...

Just touching base with this, been quoted 420 per m3, supply/pump/and man, that will be about 55-60mm over 100sq m using Cemfloor mobicem.

Do you have a keyline https://www.keyline.co.uk nearby, I've used my local one for ducting, drainage and polypipe goodies. And they were really good with me, actually wanted to chat, answer questions, and provide solutions...

That compactor is even cheaper now - 199 + delivery Scheppach 6.5HP Petrol Compactor - ALDI UK

It's still on my to do list. It's up on the gable end, so going to hire a niftylift to get up there. A couple of bits of gutter that the roofers put up have slipped loose so will hit that at the same time. Was rather hoping the roofers would come back to sort the gutter, then I could drill from the inside and use their ladders to fix the cowling in place on the outside.

Insulationhub, cutpriceinsulation and secondsandco, Managed to get a couple of pallet loads from seconds, some had slightly concave edges which the mrs sawed off as I installed, only con is long lead time on delivery, and you have to manhandle it off the wagon. Insulationhub and cutprice, good prices for retailers and they offload with a dinky forklift for you.

My windows (not any of your brands, I may add..) the handles are shockingly bad and funnily/not there's a big variation of wobble/play between them all, already been replaced once and they are just the same, I'm in dialogue for a company rep to visit. The cheap **** PVC windows in the office have better handles. The ones I played with in showrooms weren't like that... QC my arse.

The rule of thumb I wanted was to work out depth of screed, I had my assumptions, but as with most things self build no prior experience. And I'm sure this post will help others in the future too. Fancied resin topped or a microcement, but budget constraints know mean my plans will need to change. My big concern would have been pouring too much screed for one type finish, then what if in 10 years we then fancied a different type of flooring, I've then got to replace the front door and threshold. Marek

A question i've been too afraid to ask. How do you work out how much screed depth is required - so when speaking to suppliers you sound like you have a clue... At present I've been guessing, and now i'm getting closer to getting it done, I dont want to have too much poured in. Buildup is block and beam floor Dpm 150mm Insulation DPC located 1 block above floor Main entrance door has been installed at the dpc level but has a 15mm upstand. At this point I've no idea what the finished floor layer will be or thickness which doesnt help. Is there a rule of thumb.