crispy_wafer

Hi, Been laying out some of the pipework for the ensuite log flume. Before I clamp/fix it in place, can I do this? Can I have this amount of fall in such a short space? Want to make sure all passengers reach their destination 🤣

Today, I've been playing with MF... My C Studs came in at 3.6m lengths, I'm got loads of 1.2m bits left over, can I join these together and use as studs, rather than picking up a new stud all the time, or is that a bit of a no no, if I can join them together, what's the best way to do so? ta.

Depends I guess, who's going to watching or judging... If there is no other building works going on and BC not involved, then that too me would be within the realms of just cracking on and get it done if the drainage field is on your land. However, the evidence suggests something might not be quite right, so you could do your own perc tests, investigation and get a feel for what's going on around the drainage field, rather than just hoping a that a larger field would work. BTW, I'm no expert, but am an owner of a septic tank and his own drainage field...

I can see logically why you'd do the east/west split, but practically, for me it would be the one manifold each for me, for no other reason than simplicity.

Great stuff, thx

sorry, tis waste from, toilet, shower, basin.

I'm thinking about one of my waste runs from upstairs to a soil pipe, cock up, or the devils forward thinking with the placement of attic truss means it can't come straight down to the stub. It does mean at least that the boxing for the pipe can be built into the back of a wardrobe in another room. I'm going to bring the pipe down the wall about 150mm to the side of the stub. Would it be safe to use 2 * 92.5 angles, or should I go with shallower 135's? The drop to the first bend would be about 2.4m, it's going to pass through a stud wall at the bend too.

No, Mrs keeps her horses in the fields, and she'd crucify me.

Pumped to watercourse, so these units do 32 or 50mm mdpe discharge. No problems with bedrock, it'll be an easy dig for a 2.5t machine. I looked at the solido and it looks a good bit of kit, but couldn't work out/justify why I'd want to spend an extra £600 other than it says smart and this man likes control panels and gadgets 🤣

So a remote blower/pump unit of sorts, could be a useful feature, I think the bioficient unit has this too, looking at the bumpf.

Temperature fluctuations, would be my assumption, but run your fingers around the manifold at pipe entry points, bleed points etc, for any sign of moisture?

Following on from my previous adventures of connecting the new build to the lash up that was the septic tanks of the old bungalow. The recent rain and increased ground water has shown a few flaws in the whole system. I'm going to have to bite the bullet, open my wallet and put in a treatment plant. Bearing in mind this was something I didn't really want to get involved with, I'm starting with a blank sheet and not sure where to start. All I know is - 4 bed property, 3 occupants, want it to be pumped due to ground levels and seasonal water table - we are on relatively slow draining ground, Approx 40m to a watercourse. Invert about 600mm give or take. It just needs to work, and not cost too much upfront. I will be doing the digging and install. So, with 5 minutes of looking I'd been drawn to the Rewatec/conder ASP units and, I've been in touch with the local civils supplies company and they can do me a pumped Bioficient 1 Pumped & PPFDS & HLA. I'm open to suggestions for other units too if you like. Please can you help me with some feature points and things I should look at to make comparisons, and suggestions if you have any?

Hoping these may help someone in the future. Days 1/2/3 of my build.

Site conditions, insulation could vary in thickness, not all uniform in dimensions, doesn't need to be much, but 5mm over 50m2 could make a difference, camber, or depression on the b&b floor. It's not my day job, so how much volume the pipes take at 150mm centres doesn't bother me too much, my arse wont get kicked for qty mistake. Too much thinking to be done about what I've got on in the office tomorrow, buying plumbing supplies, and why I should buy one treatment plant over another...

Yes, going back to the original quote 7.5 @70mm, I dare say would have ended up with (finger in the air) about 9 cube or so. I guess that would have been about a 20% uplift, quite a bit really...

Off plan they quoted approx 6 cube at 55mm, but I increased the depth to 60mm, and I knew I had some lower spots on the floor that needed a bit more screed. That was where the builders had stacked pallets of blocks of all things, only upset the camber on the beams by 5mm or so, but it all needs filling in I guess, so I'm quite content with that. I'll just need to eat bread and water for another couple of months after completion.

🤣 touches wood, I certainly hope to never see any of it again...

It's cemfloor so this one is cement based. It looks good, but the proof is when you need to start the finish flooring, I would think there is likely to be the odd high spot/low spot but nothing that cannot be dealt with adhoc. I'm going to be bonding engineered wood to it, so just a little bit more forgiving than karndean - which I would think needs billiard table smooth. I've given myself 25 - 30mm to the underside of the front door so bags of room 🤣. All in all, it was 7 and a bit cube.

Screed is in courtesy of the mother of all screed wagons, my boy loved wading through the muck as it was being poured in, not sure if it's good practice to advertise the company or not, but if anyone needs a recommendation for a volumetric supplier in the lincoln area just ask.

I think you are going great guns here, and I for one appreciate this thread, thankyou. It's going to be so much help for me, who, probably isnt quite so brave to ask questions, advice and show my work.

Yes, true, speak to BC.

full fill with beads or full fill with mineral wool, may even cost less than PIR as well Also, get onto U-value calculator | ubakus.com and have a play

Similar floor buildup as what I've got in progress. Block and beam, 150mm of PIR, 60mm screed at the front door threshold - which is 15mm from memory. I just went with what the door manufacturer recommended, in reality I should have waited and perhaps specified a slighty larger threshold. When measured from the top of PIR to bottom of the door I have about 85mm so I've got a good 25mm for flooring depending on how flush I want the flooring to be. I've settled on recessing a mat at the door opening, and glue down bamboo flooring @ 14/15mm so should work out ok. Depending on thickness of mat I will grind out 5-10mm from the screed.

Thought I'd add some photo's now that job's just about jobbed

Personally, I don't think that would be an issue, if it all fits, and you can push/pull through without bother and it stops the pipes being scratched/scored when pulling through something abrasive then all good. maybe the quote is coming from the angle that when doing plumbing you are likely to have excess or offcuts of plumbing waste pipes to hand so that's what's used at the time as conduit.