crispy_wafer

Leadworx did ours

Just updating this, couldnt figure it out with the MF so bought some timber to start framing out the cupboard.

Morning all, Thinking about airtightness/sealing up of the gable blockwall in my loft space, and similarly the bits of block wall at the ends of my voids in the dormer, I'm not expecting the plasterer to get into these spots. Would it be acceptable to paint the walls in one of the sealing paints, soudatight or similar, the loft space has been insulated between and below the rafters so walls are in an insulated room.

Went the channelling route myself, I'm stingy with space and didnt want to lose the inch, It was me measuring the missus was marking it out on the pir, we trimmed the full boards down to 4 by 4 or whichever was closest to the nearest rafter so could get a screw and washer to fix the board down. We had 70mm of the pink kooltherm stuff on the inside, which I found was easier to mould Mark the board cut the lines to 20mm or so, then run some cut lines then run the saw horizontal and ping bits out of the channel, use a bit of 4 * 1 to check before fitting. Probably why it took me so long. Couldnt imagine a contractor going to the trouble and I guess that fact, made me feel a bit better about the PITA job.

Oh, twas a picture, I'll have another go

Does this help at all?

Keep at it. Time I found so far is the biggest factor at play, and not necessarily having the prior knowledge of how to do something, I was adamant I'd do the donkey work like cutting fitting + taping , two layers of PIR between and under + Airguard membrane of all layers, it's taken us the best part of 6 months. Not a long job per se, but getting the actual time to spend doing the job is the limiting factor. I reckon in hindsight it's a bit belt and braces but nevertheless, I'll be happy knowing it's bang on... As this is your loft space, What have you got planned at foot level? Would you insulate here as well? We've got a loft where attic trusses were used, similar PIR'd between and under. I'm unsure if I really need to insulate at foot level, and if so, how much, considering how much insulation is between and under the rafters

I'd think if the gap in the area indicated is unventilated then I could not see why there'd be a problem, if ventilated or outside air can bypass the wool then that would affect your U values. I've just had a butchers at your blog - Well done, good going!

Hi @nod sorry your terminology has got me confused I'm not sure I understand what you mean by 'top hat' or 'hangers'. Do you mean timber dropping from the rafters to provide a flat edge then a piece of timber attached to the underside of this along the length of the wall, then attach the channel?

One for the MF experts, I've used all the timber I had on site for studs, spurred on by others I'm curious about MF and fancy giving it a try. I've got a section that needs framing but the wall runs across a sloping ceiling. Can it be done with MF, or best stick to timber for a task like this? The issue I'd have is with the top Channel, how to have it pointing down, rather than pointing out into the landing... is it a case of bending the U track, or cut a section of timber with an angle that matches the slope then attach the U track to this?

I had this post stashed away in my scrapbook (ideas and great things others have done) so may help with the hep2o manifold ideas

Super many thanks, Buildhub to the rescue once again 👍 So a 22 to 25 tap with a 3/4 olive, just need to locate an insert for the old 3/4 pipe. Or a Plasson adapter, but I think I'd like to do this with as little connections as possible I think. is the direction of the tap important in this underground application do you think?

One for the plumbers, I've got a 3/4" supply coming onto the land, twas an old supply, but we are wanting to connect the new build to it. I've already ran 25mm pipe into the build. Now because the old pipe might have the odd scratch and difficult to clean up, so I'm thinking a good old brass compression fitting would be best for this job. I'm struggling to locate a 3/4" to 25mm brass stop tap - does such a thing exist? Or even a 3/4 to 25mm brass coupling? Then I could use a standard 25mm top tap later on in the chain.

As others said, insulationhub and seconds and co, also used https://www.cutpriceinsulation.co.uk/ for the last batch of 150mm for my floor, they saved me a couple of quid per sheet over insulation hub on that occasion, quick delivery too.

I've found, or, I've been incredibly lucky that the illbruck foam doesnt knacker the guns up half as much as the everbuild cheap stuff from toolstation, never used a cleaner yet, and it was a cheapo 12 quid gun from amazon. Run a blade over the nozzle on the next use and the gun is good to go again. I managed to find a supplier for the little 1" reducing nozzles on ebay - probably one of the best finds of the build so far for me... Edit, good going on the draught blocking..

I shopped about after getting quote from BPC, mainly because I couldnt work out where I was going to install the unit and run the ducting, and I was buying kit in dribs and drabs using my salary rather than the build capex. Purchased bits from efans, blauberg, and BPC, they all seem to be better priced on some items than others, just got to make sure the small order values are worth any postage charges...

Thanks, So first quote back, £25.50 per m2 for gypsol classic, works out to 357 per m3. Ouch. @jayc89 seems ours are pretty similar in costs, wonder if this is a regional thing...

We are going to about 70mm on a 105m2 area. Provisioning for about 7.5m3 or thereabouts. For those that have screeded recently what sort of costs per cube are you seeing + laitence removal. Waiting with baited breath on some quotes to come back. I've not decided yet on cement based or gypsum based. It'll be going of UFH and the Floor finish - microcement or Resin on top. Ta

I've just pinched this picture so the wording on it is not mine. However the schematic is similar in that the telescopic bit is in the cavity enclosed in insulation everywhere else. Except in this case this door the builder left as a single skin hence the vents being visible and yes they are to the FFL which is the problem I want to resolve, and am looking for a bit of guidance.

🤣🤣 Oh bloomin heck - Something else to chalk up to experience, didnt cross my mind at the time, only later when thinking about the floor buildup. I was left with these two vents right under the front door. Is there anything I can do? Plastic isnt going to withstand years of trampling through the doorway, and wont support the finished floor covering very well. I've got a good number of vents on that side of the build so I could chop em out fill and insert a brick. Or... Any other solutions?

Thanks, I Appreciate the feedback from someone who has been down this rabbit hole before me.

Agree, so I'm trying to get like for like on the Wunda spec. 16mm pipe, staples, actuators, prebuild Wilo or Grundfoss manifold and pump pack. The wunda quote wasn't dear @£1460 for the bits, but I've managed to pretty much save just short of £250 on all items they listed. And that's from one plumbing supplier - psw-trade. Oval pipe though, no 🤣 matter.

Tasks this week include shopping around for bit's and bobs for my downstairs UFH. I've had quotes in from the likes of Wunda but like everything I love to price match to make sure I'm not being taken for a fool. I don't spend much time out of the office so hate trawling round merchants much prefer to be in the build. So with the internet being my friend does anyone have any good online goto suppliers they would share for - 16mm Pipe P.Al.P, actuators, manifolds etc. Many thanks Marek

I love this, quite unique too, something I really want to investigate when the time comes.

Thankyou, that's very nice of you to say so.