crispy_wafer

+1 removing the render and kill two birds with one stone. Speak to the local planning office and see what feedback they have on you changing the external appearance to something more sympathetic to the local amenity whilst improving insulation levels, energy performance etc.

I'm looking to bring a waste out of a Boss and go vertically ASAP with the least amount of protrusion, so I can keep the 50mm inside a 97mm or so stud wall. I'm looking to see what combination of components I need to achieve this... I'm using floplast solvent weld for this, 1) I've test fitted a bit of pipe into the bend so it sticks out a couple of mm then pushed the assembly into the boss and it fits quite snuggly and with a bit of SW I reckon it would take, but I'm not sure if this is a correct way and I'm just storing up a problem for myself later on down the line. 2) You can get boss plugs to SW pipe into the add a bend, but i'd then be bringing the bend out further than I'd like. 3) And finally you can get a conversion bend that I guess would fit into the boss plug. However screwfix dont have these in at 50mm. Toolstation have some, but these are aquaflow brand, any thought if these are interchangeable? What the best way to go about this.

@joe90 Like placing an extract vent (like bathroom & kitchen) to capture the warmer air?

Depends how accurate or diligent the SAP assessor has been I suppose, mine was done from the BRegs Drawings I had, & didnt ask me anything about any improvements I was making Increased insulation levels in the floor, roof etc, MVHR, window types, Airtightness levels etc So could be accurate or way off kilter. I would get hold of one of the heat loss calculators (I think Jeremy's one is highly though of ????), spend a bit of time and plug in some numbers, that ought to then give you a base figure to work from.

I look at the MF I bought and didn't use (until now!) and smile, I then look over at a pile of timber that is only good for noggins, short pieces the fire because it all twisted up as it dried out. I've only used it for my en-suite but am quite impressed with the speed and ease, once I'd watched a few youtube videos. I used insulationhub for mf

I'm pondering over the run for log flume no2 And I was pondering how to get my 50mm shower, sink and bath water into the soil pipe before the pipes exit the building. The pipes will be dropped between pozi' joists under the flooring and there is not much in the way of a vertical drop where I can tap into before the pipework goes into the main stack outside, I'm not sure I really want to tap into the 110 on the horizontal run. And ideally I only want one pipe exiting the building. I was browsing through threads and came across this thread where a 110mm to 50mm reducer was used to allow a feed into the 110 soil pipe. I've attached a proposed pipe layout below and where I'd like to use the reducer into a solvent weld 135 branch. Can anyone see any issues doing this?

Hopefully someone will know... Build is Brick, FF pir, block. When Measuring distance to combustibles would you take into account the cavity material? Or would combustibles be those that next to the stove and not concealed?

All pipes are pushed well into the stops, and into the downpipe which has a couple of fixings, a couple more to be added when I next go shopping for supplies... There is no movement, other than the bit on the slope which will be fixed down, if deemed ok.

Hi, Been laying out some of the pipework for the ensuite log flume. Before I clamp/fix it in place, can I do this? Can I have this amount of fall in such a short space? Want to make sure all passengers reach their destination 🤣

Today, I've been playing with MF... My C Studs came in at 3.6m lengths, I'm got loads of 1.2m bits left over, can I join these together and use as studs, rather than picking up a new stud all the time, or is that a bit of a no no, if I can join them together, what's the best way to do so? ta.

Depends I guess, who's going to watching or judging... If there is no other building works going on and BC not involved, then that too me would be within the realms of just cracking on and get it done if the drainage field is on your land. However, the evidence suggests something might not be quite right, so you could do your own perc tests, investigation and get a feel for what's going on around the drainage field, rather than just hoping a that a larger field would work. BTW, I'm no expert, but am an owner of a septic tank and his own drainage field...

I can see logically why you'd do the east/west split, but practically, for me it would be the one manifold each for me, for no other reason than simplicity.

Great stuff, thx

sorry, tis waste from, toilet, shower, basin.

I'm thinking about one of my waste runs from upstairs to a soil pipe, cock up, or the devils forward thinking with the placement of attic truss means it can't come straight down to the stub. It does mean at least that the boxing for the pipe can be built into the back of a wardrobe in another room. I'm going to bring the pipe down the wall about 150mm to the side of the stub. Would it be safe to use 2 * 92.5 angles, or should I go with shallower 135's? The drop to the first bend would be about 2.4m, it's going to pass through a stud wall at the bend too.

No, Mrs keeps her horses in the fields, and she'd crucify me.

Pumped to watercourse, so these units do 32 or 50mm mdpe discharge. No problems with bedrock, it'll be an easy dig for a 2.5t machine. I looked at the solido and it looks a good bit of kit, but couldn't work out/justify why I'd want to spend an extra £600 other than it says smart and this man likes control panels and gadgets 🤣

So a remote blower/pump unit of sorts, could be a useful feature, I think the bioficient unit has this too, looking at the bumpf.

Temperature fluctuations, would be my assumption, but run your fingers around the manifold at pipe entry points, bleed points etc, for any sign of moisture?

Following on from my previous adventures of connecting the new build to the lash up that was the septic tanks of the old bungalow. The recent rain and increased ground water has shown a few flaws in the whole system. I'm going to have to bite the bullet, open my wallet and put in a treatment plant. Bearing in mind this was something I didn't really want to get involved with, I'm starting with a blank sheet and not sure where to start. All I know is - 4 bed property, 3 occupants, want it to be pumped due to ground levels and seasonal water table - we are on relatively slow draining ground, Approx 40m to a watercourse. Invert about 600mm give or take. It just needs to work, and not cost too much upfront. I will be doing the digging and install. So, with 5 minutes of looking I'd been drawn to the Rewatec/conder ASP units and, I've been in touch with the local civils supplies company and they can do me a pumped Bioficient 1 Pumped & PPFDS & HLA. I'm open to suggestions for other units too if you like. Please can you help me with some feature points and things I should look at to make comparisons, and suggestions if you have any?

Hoping these may help someone in the future. Days 1/2/3 of my build.

Site conditions, insulation could vary in thickness, not all uniform in dimensions, doesn't need to be much, but 5mm over 50m2 could make a difference, camber, or depression on the b&b floor. It's not my day job, so how much volume the pipes take at 150mm centres doesn't bother me too much, my arse wont get kicked for qty mistake. Too much thinking to be done about what I've got on in the office tomorrow, buying plumbing supplies, and why I should buy one treatment plant over another...

Yes, going back to the original quote 7.5 @70mm, I dare say would have ended up with (finger in the air) about 9 cube or so. I guess that would have been about a 20% uplift, quite a bit really...

Off plan they quoted approx 6 cube at 55mm, but I increased the depth to 60mm, and I knew I had some lower spots on the floor that needed a bit more screed. That was where the builders had stacked pallets of blocks of all things, only upset the camber on the beams by 5mm or so, but it all needs filling in I guess, so I'm quite content with that. I'll just need to eat bread and water for another couple of months after completion.

🤣 touches wood, I certainly hope to never see any of it again...