crispy_wafer

Top tip, added them to my vendor list for price checking in future - thanks @PeterW

Until the buggers get consistent with pricing and stop trying it on, they'll get no sympathy from me. Like every business or persons, they are entitled to make a wedge, but profiteering and the taking the p**s through covid lives long in the memory.

👍 Nah, go for it. Put what you learned doing the first one to good use.

Morning all, I'm after a bit of a sanity check, or otherwise please, on the planning of an internal stack that will receive from the downstairs WC, and possibly the upstairs bathroom if my ideas pass muster. Initially the drawings incorporated an SVP arrangement to look like this. Pipework out the back, meaning I need to core hole and have pipework running externally like the picture. So sitting at my desk I started procrastinating about whether I could do this better and avoid making holes in the brickwork, or not. I think I can, but I either need a bit of reassurance, or telling to keep it simple and to plan. I have a stack coming up in the downstairs WC Stud wall. My bright idea, consisted of running this stack pipe up inside the wall then connecting a 45 3 branch to avoid the pozi joist then connect into the fall from the Toilet upstairs, I need to tap a 50 into this somewhere as well. Once past the 45 I will run the 4 inch into a void behind a cupboard for an AAV. Is it OK to have multiple bends and whatnot in the this (dry) section? I will need to fix up the studding after I have carved it all up, I'm thinking I may face and join the sections of wall with ply/OSB to reinforce. My plan to vent the stench, is to tee from the soil pipe as it runs to an IC and run a vent up the wall near the chimney breast Would this plan seem OK, or am I going to be causing issues for myself.

1.2m*1.8 ish basically just an annex off the utility with a door if seeing the cylinder ever bothers me, will only house the cylinder and manifolds for water distribution. MVHR is up in the loft because I didnt fancy mucking about with 6" pipes between the pozi's. Job, jobbed! Heatpumps will be outside.

ours was the same, however, the areas where the water was pooling /gathering was around the edges where the builder hadn't filled in. I know I live in an area that has quite a variable water level, due to slow draining ground more than anything. I figured the water ingress was seepin in between or through the trench blocks and via the openings that had been created for the service ducts etc. I spent a weekend lifting the blocks on the b&b floor, then on the tractor loading wheelbarrows whilst the missus and boy spread MOT under the beams (Looks bloody good, and when I had to go tunneling for a lost hammer, i didnt come out covered in mud, so that was a bonus). The builder thought I was mad for doing so quite honestly, they dont tend to bother with these details. It looks a lot better, and for the sake of a few hundred pounds worth doing and justified in my mind. I've also put in some drainage around the property about 10m away or so from the build over the last year or so, basically 4ft deep trenches wrapped and filled with 4-6" limestone chunks leading off to a drainage ditch. Just to give the water somewhere to go. Logically once your DPC, and DPM is down your habitable area is a damp proof box, and going about things as slowly as I have, I've seen the seasons pass, dry and wet alike and not seen or noticed any issues. All is good, and I have no worries. These was taken after a wet spell, albeit we had no walls or roof at the time, so it was likely to puddle... Lifted them blocks more times than I care to remember.

Hey, yes... I saw your thread, so I'll reply there for you.

+1 removing the render and kill two birds with one stone. Speak to the local planning office and see what feedback they have on you changing the external appearance to something more sympathetic to the local amenity whilst improving insulation levels, energy performance etc.

I'm looking to bring a waste out of a Boss and go vertically ASAP with the least amount of protrusion, so I can keep the 50mm inside a 97mm or so stud wall. I'm looking to see what combination of components I need to achieve this... I'm using floplast solvent weld for this, 1) I've test fitted a bit of pipe into the bend so it sticks out a couple of mm then pushed the assembly into the boss and it fits quite snuggly and with a bit of SW I reckon it would take, but I'm not sure if this is a correct way and I'm just storing up a problem for myself later on down the line. 2) You can get boss plugs to SW pipe into the add a bend, but i'd then be bringing the bend out further than I'd like. 3) And finally you can get a conversion bend that I guess would fit into the boss plug. However screwfix dont have these in at 50mm. Toolstation have some, but these are aquaflow brand, any thought if these are interchangeable? What the best way to go about this.

@joe90 Like placing an extract vent (like bathroom & kitchen) to capture the warmer air?

Depends how accurate or diligent the SAP assessor has been I suppose, mine was done from the BRegs Drawings I had, & didnt ask me anything about any improvements I was making Increased insulation levels in the floor, roof etc, MVHR, window types, Airtightness levels etc So could be accurate or way off kilter. I would get hold of one of the heat loss calculators (I think Jeremy's one is highly though of ????), spend a bit of time and plug in some numbers, that ought to then give you a base figure to work from.

I look at the MF I bought and didn't use (until now!) and smile, I then look over at a pile of timber that is only good for noggins, short pieces the fire because it all twisted up as it dried out. I've only used it for my en-suite but am quite impressed with the speed and ease, once I'd watched a few youtube videos. I used insulationhub for mf

I'm pondering over the run for log flume no2 And I was pondering how to get my 50mm shower, sink and bath water into the soil pipe before the pipes exit the building. The pipes will be dropped between pozi' joists under the flooring and there is not much in the way of a vertical drop where I can tap into before the pipework goes into the main stack outside, I'm not sure I really want to tap into the 110 on the horizontal run. And ideally I only want one pipe exiting the building. I was browsing through threads and came across this thread where a 110mm to 50mm reducer was used to allow a feed into the 110 soil pipe. I've attached a proposed pipe layout below and where I'd like to use the reducer into a solvent weld 135 branch. Can anyone see any issues doing this?

Hopefully someone will know... Build is Brick, FF pir, block. When Measuring distance to combustibles would you take into account the cavity material? Or would combustibles be those that next to the stove and not concealed?

All pipes are pushed well into the stops, and into the downpipe which has a couple of fixings, a couple more to be added when I next go shopping for supplies... There is no movement, other than the bit on the slope which will be fixed down, if deemed ok.

Hi, Been laying out some of the pipework for the ensuite log flume. Before I clamp/fix it in place, can I do this? Can I have this amount of fall in such a short space? Want to make sure all passengers reach their destination 🤣

Today, I've been playing with MF... My C Studs came in at 3.6m lengths, I'm got loads of 1.2m bits left over, can I join these together and use as studs, rather than picking up a new stud all the time, or is that a bit of a no no, if I can join them together, what's the best way to do so? ta.

Depends I guess, who's going to watching or judging... If there is no other building works going on and BC not involved, then that too me would be within the realms of just cracking on and get it done if the drainage field is on your land. However, the evidence suggests something might not be quite right, so you could do your own perc tests, investigation and get a feel for what's going on around the drainage field, rather than just hoping a that a larger field would work. BTW, I'm no expert, but am an owner of a septic tank and his own drainage field...

I can see logically why you'd do the east/west split, but practically, for me it would be the one manifold each for me, for no other reason than simplicity.

Great stuff, thx

sorry, tis waste from, toilet, shower, basin.

I'm thinking about one of my waste runs from upstairs to a soil pipe, cock up, or the devils forward thinking with the placement of attic truss means it can't come straight down to the stub. It does mean at least that the boxing for the pipe can be built into the back of a wardrobe in another room. I'm going to bring the pipe down the wall about 150mm to the side of the stub. Would it be safe to use 2 * 92.5 angles, or should I go with shallower 135's? The drop to the first bend would be about 2.4m, it's going to pass through a stud wall at the bend too.

No, Mrs keeps her horses in the fields, and she'd crucify me.

Pumped to watercourse, so these units do 32 or 50mm mdpe discharge. No problems with bedrock, it'll be an easy dig for a 2.5t machine. I looked at the solido and it looks a good bit of kit, but couldn't work out/justify why I'd want to spend an extra £600 other than it says smart and this man likes control panels and gadgets 🤣

So a remote blower/pump unit of sorts, could be a useful feature, I think the bioficient unit has this too, looking at the bumpf.