crispy_wafer

I'm another with cemfloor, I'll have to check through my previous posts, but 65-80mm thickness over 150mm pir, no cracks and solid. Overall Im pleased with it

Pictures are great, gives me something to work towards, when I pickup the tools up in anger! Your guys have used press fit too, which is cool! I'm looking to snag a tool on ebay at the moment, I think they are amazing bits of kit.

It's an R32 unit!

Ta, it's their 6kW unit. I've downloaded the installer guides from Chofu and Grant had a skim read earlier at work, primarily trying to identify the sections for the weather compensation settings. I'm popping out tomorrow to go fetch it. Measured up and it will fit in the back of the Shogun standing up so happy with that. I'll spend the next couple of weeks laying my hands on bits and bobs to do the install. I'll keep updating the thread as I go, hopefully it will serve as a half decent reference point for others in the future,

So, I managed to bag a small Grant ASHP which I intend self installing, as much as I possibly can. It'll be a relatively simple system comprising DHW and UFH, Spark and plumber will be doing the wiring and cylinder for me. So getting stumped at the first hurdle, as I start looking for other bits needed for install... Although I'm a bit hesitant to ask questions as it shows my lack of knowledge somewhat, here goes the first few questions to enter my head.. How would I size the pipework from the ASHP to the UFH manifold, is there a rule of thumb? The UFH has a design flow rate of 16.4 l/min, and the manifold is a max of 10 metres away from the heat pump. 5 bends at the most as the pipe goes up round and down! How do you decide if a buffer is needed? UFH Design volume is about 96 Litres this is a ground floor system, and all the loops are in rooms which will be used frequently so I'm happy to have the system act as a single zone. Pumps? Should I rely on the ASHP pump solely, or wire up the UFH pump too, then would I need to have a LLH, or is this a case of check the pump on the UFH circuit and see if it closely matches with the pump settings on the ASHP? Cheers Marek

Thanks for posting that, quite insightful for a newbie like me wants to know a bit more without overloading the grey cells. I dont have an ASHP installed yet. But have the UFH in. So when the ASHP is installed, I'm getting the message that I should chuck out the not yet installed loop actuators, set the loops to the design flow rates. Just have a single thermostat to monitor air temp to trigger the ASHP? Anything that causes on & off's in quick succession is bad? I've got a bit to learn on this subject but we all have to start somewhere...

Paid 1500 for our building regs drawings, 800 for the SE, 250 for SAP, 250 for a Bird/Bat and tree survey, all from 3rd parties. We felt there was no need to complicate an L shaped Dormer. Internal layout probably changed a few times during construction as we got a feel for the place, so super detailed drawings might have not have helped much...

TBH, I'd ask the manufacturer, or system supplier/designer what they'd recommend for your particular install. Check the ducting aswell, otherwise you may have an issue with condensation.

I think you can get a suitable double sided tape from someone like Tyvek or even a DPC bitumen tape, guess it depends on the application and what you actually want the membrane to do, the only thing I'm not sure about is how receptive the cut ends are to an adhesive tape, the ends may need to be wrapped with something first.

I'd use the space behind the units to be fair, as long as they are 'hidden' from day to day view.

Vaillant Aerotherm models worth a look?

grouting - I did, as there was a slight difference in level between the infill blocks at the top of the beam, meaning that the insulation rocked a touch (of course the screed then weighs it all down and flattens the insulation out, but being green I didn't want to risk it). I mixed it up as a really runny slurry, and poured over the whole lot and used it like a filling/levelling mix. Just make sure the blocks are wet. Cant remember the mix, but think it was in the region of 5:1 ish... I did my grouting after watertight, but that meant lifting the blocks to clean out all the crap that had accumulated.

Great point, our stables that we inherited are built soleplate onto concrete base, albeit, they are probably subjected to a bit more moisture. The soleplates do rot out in time. You can remove cladding etc and knock them out and replace, but it's time and hassle, when really a slight design tweak at the beginning that doesn't cost an awful lot extra can easily mitigate against.

Quick check @ Insulationhub.co.uk would be about the same

I incorporated a bat box in to my build, as specified by planning. Inexpensive, simply slips into a cavity. Might be an alternative.

I use an old vax 51 something cylinder or other downstairs and a karcher thing upstairs, only got 2 because we don't have stairs in at the moment. Both bagged models but they were both very cheap 2nd hand from FB marketplace.

Just the quote/equipment list, then thought thanks for the unit suggestion, bet I can do it better and cheaper. So I did.

I put a vent axia sentinel s in, twin 75mm ducts to all rooms, apart the master, where I split to two single 75mm ducts feeding low level vents. I ran the system up last weekend, as boys with toys just want to play. Bear in mind the build has no plasterboard up, and is pretty much open plan at the moment. The unit is located in the loft (insulated between and under the rafters). Tried it at its pre-set normal and it's boost setting. I was happy with the noise levels, which made no real discernible difference to me. Noise levels at the Supply and extract plenums, nah, nothing that I could really tell unless I stuck my ears at the vent. I reckon I'll be happy with my choice based on cost/performance. I got BPC to quote, I then had a good guess at the layout plan, based on their number of supplies and extracts, and reading some of the best practice guides. Plenty of plans have been discussed on here too, which helps with design decision. I shopped about, ventilationland, isells, blauberg, and bpc, for components. I did add a couple of metal duct silencers on the building supply and extract.

I had one stud, it decided it preferred to smile rather stay straight faced. took my circular saw to it 2/3 the way through at the bend, leant on it then wedged in a timber packer, then braced either side with ply. Perfik now, but required extra work. That's why metal frame is now taking over, nobody on site has time for remedial action.

Sorry I don't know, but I would be interested to find out what is acceptable for a spread to take out, because I'll be bloomin surprised if I manage to get all my boards up without a deviation, even though I've been running string lines and straight edges.

Daylight robbery, <expletive> bandits.

Found this on the statistics for BUS. found here Boiler Upgrade Scheme statistics: December 2022 - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)

Although not particularly great for you, that is great feedback for others. 3.5 hours survey, should be nice and thorough then.

July 2020 we started. Yes & No, We paid a builder to get up and roof on, I then bought the windows, so that took us to approx £165k. I've got a little bit of capital left, so we are doing as much first fix work as possible on what's left of the salaries. Material costs are just about manageable if taking your time - take a month to do the studding out, plumbing the next month etc, I refuse to look at what it's cost to date in total, in a way it's almost meaningless to us (ofc it matters though), it will cost what it costs it's just a matter of how long it will take, and of course trades cost money as they've got mortgages and bill to pay too! Trying to pick up bits and bobs from peoples finished projects also helps the pocket money stretch a bit further. I also refuse to become a slave to it. If I start a part of the job, I'll finish it. But, I do like to take some time out and spend it with friends and family too every now and then for my own sanity. Almost ready for FF electrics and plumbing.

Yep, true, got to read the blurb and make sure you don't get your pants pulled. There are a couple of different types of these, according to the flyer only the R version has the element. Then there are some different ones at appliance direct too. The efficiency isnt anywhere as good as the split types, I guess you could work out the real world difference