crispy_wafer

Its the 8PE pumped version, watercourse is about 50 paces away. I'll be looking to concrete as clay sublayer @ about 1m causes slow drainage, invert is approx 650mm. The installation guides don't seem quite clear on whether I could pour mass concrete over the top or not to create a tomb like structure. I may want to drive over its location occasionally with my small tractor... Thinking I'll mix the concrete for it to sit on, then have either a readymix or volumetric delivery to fill the rest of the hole. Best laid plans and all that,

I think you are right. But 5/6t will only allow me to dig from one side of the hole, too high, and wide to fit through the gate and past the stables. whereas a 3t I can manoeuvre to get access from the other side too. Will be going under the area where the greenhouses are in this pic, using access near the stables. Digging primarily will be done from about where my dumper is parked.

Update: changed my mind on the tank, getting the Solido, the fact that it runs periodically and uses less energy resulting in longer term savings won the day... Travis Perkins beat the online suppliers and threw in delivery and offload as part of it. Happy with that as I've back and forth on this for about a year...

So, not much has happened with my install bar thinking about installation schematics and the possibility of how best to incorporate a 3 rad circuit for the bathrooms without compromising too much efficiency? I was always set on having dual fuel towel rads anyway, so that option is available in the months where it's too warm for central heating, but we are still in goose bump territory. So, I'm thinking I should at least put the pipework in place should it be needed in future so the Rads can be installed on a point 2 point basis from a manifold and convert from 16mm to 15mm at the radiator. Control wise, I think running the ASHP for this would be wildly inefficient, so could I put a zone valve in place on this circuit and open this when the UFH stat downstairs calls for heat?

Not that you need it, but Good luck anyway, I'm sure you'll smash it!

@Dave Jones True, but shit happens, and this is resolvable, we are human and self builders at that! We often have other day jobs, and not everything we tackle is done with loads of knowledge, history and hindsight. Layouts change, and even the best laid initial plans over time become obsolete, and as the structure goes up we start thinking 'what if' or someone says ' it would be nice if'. 👍, hell, I've pretty much redone all my external soil and grey water runs because what looked acceptable on paper, looked cack in real life. Anyway, i'd go with what Conor says, recessed and filled with your topping of choice. Over time it will become less noticeable. Get or paint a green lid, or grass topped one - C-11 GrassTop Recessed Manhole Cover, 450 dia - Grass Top Covers

So the road/lane is lower than your garden? most likely the ditch was put in when the road was or shortly after to alleviate the road flooding, so when the time comes and the road floods it's up to the council to ensure it doesn't by maintaining that it drains correctly to somewhere. That's my view. At the moment, no one want the responsibility, only when there is a problem will it land on a desk to sort out. Pen pushers and jobsworths, all waiting for someone to tell them to do something. (edit: being unkind, maybe they are bound by endless red tape and bureaucracy so cant be bothered) When you submit to building just don't mention anything about ditches or running anything into it, otherwise every department will probably want to add their two penneth.

Upper Witham IDB - Wikipedia

Don't mention anything about draining your soakaway to it, just complain about the lack of maintainance and push to get it maintained, in my location we have an internal drainage board who are responsible for the majority of drains, maybe yours is too and has dropped off the map somehow. Years ago our area had flooding after prolonged rainfall, the internal drains hadn't been maintained causing the water to back up and flood over fields and into a residential area. Home insurance companies went after the environment agency, who in turn dragged the IDB over hot coals. Drains are cleared now at least once a year.

Does seem a bit oversized in my non professional opinion. Any plans in the future to increase the number of indoor units? The 10kW unit might possibly be good for up to 5 connected indoor units, giving you a bit of future proofing. In terms of energy usage I'd find out what the condenser will modulate down to, then compare that to a 6/7kW unit see if there is any appreciable difference. There might not be too much! If so then the only differences are a small extra initial purchase cost, physical size, and maybe noise when at full chat, and the advantage that you can add to it in future - maybe...

I’d just discharge to your ditch anyway, in fact we are similar, privately maintained road with a roadside drain, I’ve put a 2 ft deep stone filled French drain from and through my garden into it. Conveniently the soakaway crates from the new build is right next to my stone filled French drain. We have clay at about 1m, so pretty slow draining during the wetter times. All good now!

I'm no plumber and don't have any kind of practical experience to fall back on, but would option 1 have problems with flow if outlets are used concurrently? Thinking about the plumbing in my olde bungalow it's more along the lines of diagram 2, 22mm main with 15mm branches.

Building up, ready for wackering. Little too much at the back, but will drag some back with the tractor loader. Bit more to drop in the section where the micro is sat, then back to indoor jobs for a bit before I sort out the treatment plant install. The old dumper is a pain in the arse, had to drain the diesel off as it had water in it, handle start and no brakes is starting to turn into a chore!

Yes, it's come about not through design but by accident really. The house is about 450-500 above the surrounding ground level, so I'm building the area up around it. The back at 3.5*13 was always going to be because it's where the back doors are, but is north westish facing so shadows and no sun in the evening. Was sat in the garden late evening last week with the bbq on and the sun beating down on the side of the house thinking might be nice to have a seating area there. We got to 5m because I've got some pipework and an inspection chamber on the way to the soon to be treatment plant and I thought I'd have that with the area as at ground level the pipework didn't have too much cover... Long way away yet though!

Was just going to say that, look's lovely. Bet the chook's love the freshly dug soil! In terms of patio, I'm going with about the same at the back of ours, so 3 - 3.5 * 13m and down the side where the evening sun hits, will be 5*10m.

maybe it's not such a great idea, the height of the unit + starting height of the trailer might just be too much, too much of a gamble i think.

Very fair comment,

Is there a basin? or is that to the side of the w/c just wondering if that would have any impact on things I haven't got as far as thinking about trays and formers yet, but will this be flush with the finished floor, wetroom style?

As title, thinking how to minimise hire costs and delivery charges, as I'll need the digger to create the hole in the ground anyway, so if I wanted to self offload a Rewatec ASP 6 (about 230kg) from the back of a lorry would a 3t be big enough or do I need to go larger?

Cheers @Nickfromwales Seemed I was getting a bit excited about plumbing, but must board the area first. Always something to stop me having fun! So, Yeah, mains in, a feed to the sink, and outside tap with DCV, a run to the utility (cylinder control group), with a PRV, and a Tee for the Washing machine in an accessible location, I'll include isolators, or shut off valves at each leg too. Been living on this water main and site for 30 years, and honestly never had an issue with the water, last washing machine lived to a grand old age, and the kettle is fine - These are my not so scientific instruments of water hardness 🤣. Did discuss a softener with Mrs, but just seemed an unnecessary expense/luxury. However on the other side of Lincoln (Washingborough) at work the kettles need de scaling every couple of weeks, the water is terrible stuff.

At that price, I'd be looking to go off-grid. Seriously though, if you have a contact give them a bell and ask what if anything can be done to get the price down, sure there will be costs for the footpath and highway that probably cant and wont change but mention a lower amp supply and see if that alters the cost. Up here they wont give anything other than 80A per phase, so maybe 100A per phase requires twiddling at their equipment which you are paying for. Fingers crossed it's a simple as that.

I know prices are subjective and not really talked about much, so I appreciate all your input. It's good to know I'm in a decent place price wise with these BM's. I've got a WTP to order aswell, I'll see if they would be interested in a small discount. I like this BM partly because the drivers know how to back their wagons up the driveway and will have a natter, others just tend to just huff and puff and make a big deal of it.

Thanks @nod They have added 70 sheets of soundboard at 10.83, granted it's not a huge order in the grand scale of things, just making sure I'm in right area.

Just wondering if anyone would like to share what prices they are paying for PB and bits at the moment, I've got a couple more quotes from my BM's to come in, so am wondering if they are in the right sort of ballpark. So (ex vat) 100* 12.5mm Siniat std board 2400*1200 @ 7.84 25* 12.5mm Siniat MR board 2400*1200 @ 14.30 18* 25kg Bonding compound @ 7.42 35 25kg Board finish plaster @ 6.78 I've been told to get 70*TEN Wallboard for the stud walls from the QS I used as well as acoustic insulation, but this merchant failed to quote on that board, or should I just double layer std board? Ta

Just seemed a bit counter productive to run the pipe away to the control set, and then back again from the cold manifold just for the utility sink & wash m/c. But I do understand your point, so is it feasible to install a pressure reducing valve and take the sink and wash m/c from this to mitigate? Just trying to keep pipes to and fro to a minimum and as simple as possible...