crispy_wafer

90mm straight coupling mvhr - Google Search Find ones that have clips inside, you may also need rubber sealing rings too, sorry these are Female fittings, but could for you?

Great stuff! I'm still collecting bit's for my install, I've spent a bit more than you though (just shy of £4000 inc VAT at the moment for the ASHP/Cylinder install) as I purchased a matching 250l pre plumbed cylinder to go with the grant hp. I cant wait to get cracking on it, however I've got many other jobs to get done first. So that's holding me back a bit. Rather gutting, but I saw a Grant 6kW, and 180l cylinder go on Ebay this week for £820.

Absolutely, either buy rails, or use a straight edge and clamps, keep it in good condition, wipe/brush or air blow it clean it after use and you will sell it for not much less than you paid for it when finished. Essential for cutting the edges true, Gapotape is OK as it allows you a few mm of leeway, I used a couple of boxes of gapotape, then went cutting onto flush and inteference fit when I ran out.

nor me!

decent length screws and washers like these (others are available) TIMco MID35 Metal Insulation Disc 35mm - Zinc (Bag of 100), Silver : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Just to add my 2p for what it's worth, I've 2*2.5 (1 ducted,1 wall mount), and 2*3.5 ducted units going into the 3 bedrooms and 1 open plan kitchen/diner area, as mentioned above, once you settle on an installer and a chosen manufacturer you can download the brochures and see the condenser unit specs/and connection limitations. This is from MHI, but shows you the capacity limitations, there is also a page which shows acceptable combinations of indoor units too. My installer is happy for me to have an 8kW condenser installed as the maximum connection capacity is 13.5kW, though he did suggest a 10kW unit may be a better fit. Reason being that my use case will probably not involve running all units at full whack all at once, if that does happen then the indoor unit capacities are downrated (even downrated, I suspect they'll be fine on all but the most extreme of days, when it may just take a little longer to heat, or cool), the condenser isn't purchased yet, so still time to change my mind on this... My use case is that this is for supplemental heating for downstairs if needed, but primarily installed for cooling during the summer, & autumn, and upstairs will be primarily used for background heating in the winter & spring when required, but cooling in the summer, autumn. We'll have an ASHP for UFH downstairs, but no heating other than towel rads in the 2 bathroom spaces upstairs.

Thankyou (love that picture), yes, it had been crossing my mind if it the margin was a bit tight for DHW. But we have a stove, and then A2A in the bedrooms.

I don't know if I'm capable or not yet! But most of it is mechanical connections right, so I'm more than capable of following a manufacturers diagram and joining pipes? The bit I'm more worried about is making it look neat and tidy so I can put pics on here... But my experience to date... Did my heat loss calcs, used jeremy spreadsheet, and the freedom one, both came up approx 5kW, had an MCS guy do a survey who provided a nice estimate, his heat loss calc, I presume he just totted down the details and sent it to his account manager at Mitsubishi, or local plumbing outlet and also came back with 5kW at -2.8. So pretty confident in those numbers I toddled off and purchased a 2 week old 6kW Grant heat pump (wrongly sized by Grant for an MCS company) £1300. Came with flexi hoses 2 controllers and some wiring boxes, cables and bits. Thought I'd buy a matching Grant pre plumbed cylinder, as that has all the gubbins attached, wiring centre etc. Think I may have to pay retail on that, so that will be me about £3500 so far. Local Plumber at 300 to connect up the cylinder and commission for 2 days. I need some rubber feet I think at about £60, About 6-8m 28mm copper, a handful of elbows, some caleffi anti freeze valves, some isolation valves, a mag filter, and expansion vessel, maybe a buffer/volumiser (still not sure, it might be overcomplicating things), Insulation for the external pipework, pipe clips and stuff. Reckon that will take me to about 4500 give or take. Then the spark for a day, I'll lay out the cabling, but I think the pre plumbed takes most of the hard work out it. After BUS grant my quotes have been around 7-8k but with a 170l cylinder, I want a 250... Question is, is a saving of 2-3 worth the hassle of DIYing it If it goes to ratsh*t i've only got myself to blame, which I'm more than comfortable with. we wont go cold, I've got A2A installed, and one of them polluting things. The cylinder has an immersion so I'll have some hot water if needed.

I had a Camon C150 for 5 years or so, absolutely brutal that thing was, but very noisy, had two chutes, one for brush like material with flail like hammers, and one for upto 4" material that used blades to create chippings. Fantastic for reducing a big pile of into something useful. Relatively easy to use and self feeding for the most part, most problems occurred when either overloading, or with branches that split into Y shapes. No need to go sticking a hand in, just use another branch to push the obstruction through,

I'd double check with your DNO that it is actually a 3 ph supply. DNO's tend to install these three phase fuse units and only install a single fuse inside the carrier. If it turns out that it is 3 ph then it's your choice, you can get a 3ph meter, or just get a 1ph meter and ignore the extra phases.

So... if you add this to an ASHP A2W system rather than a normal cylinder, then you don't need to interrupt the space heating requirement for DHW generation. Each case is different I guess, but, as a rule is it better to separate the space heating system from the DHW system, or have them combined? At < 2k for a 270l arostor they don't seem beyond the realms of affordability either.

Please can I ask what is an ESHP? I feel that I'm missing some knowledge on something.

So, install the 6 port manifold now, and cap the unused ports and do the rest of the UFH when the time comes. Slide a bit of timber in to the screed to separate the installed pipes from the bit you will dig out later to protect them from kango damage. - Is probably how I'd go about it...

Todays addition to party was a grant 250l pre plumbed cylinder, should be with us next week. I figured this would be a wise choice for us. Got a plumber lined up for some evenings and weekend work to help with the install.

Blygold was what they called the coating...

I think aircon units have been installed in less than favourable conditions for donkeys years. You can buy ASHP's with special coatings applied, I think I saw a daikin one last week - ebay i think coated in something that had some resistance to airborne nasties...

Popped over to Liverpool yesterday to pick up the little beastie. Got it from a renewables firm that had installed a few of these, but the heating calcs system they were provided with had some under sizing errors. They then had to pull these units out at of use and replace, so were selling the small units off. Had about 2 weeks worth of work, comes with controllers and most of the bundled accessories. 1st job on the agenda is sorting out it final position, then putting in the condensate drain and concrete pad. I'm redoing the soil and waste drainage outside as I don't like the builder did. So, any reason I cant feed the condensate into a 110mm which will eventually end up in the WTP?

I'm another with cemfloor, I'll have to check through my previous posts, but 65-80mm thickness over 150mm pir, no cracks and solid. Overall Im pleased with it

Pictures are great, gives me something to work towards, when I pickup the tools up in anger! Your guys have used press fit too, which is cool! I'm looking to snag a tool on ebay at the moment, I think they are amazing bits of kit.

It's an R32 unit!

Ta, it's their 6kW unit. I've downloaded the installer guides from Chofu and Grant had a skim read earlier at work, primarily trying to identify the sections for the weather compensation settings. I'm popping out tomorrow to go fetch it. Measured up and it will fit in the back of the Shogun standing up so happy with that. I'll spend the next couple of weeks laying my hands on bits and bobs to do the install. I'll keep updating the thread as I go, hopefully it will serve as a half decent reference point for others in the future,

So, I managed to bag a small Grant ASHP which I intend self installing, as much as I possibly can. It'll be a relatively simple system comprising DHW and UFH, Spark and plumber will be doing the wiring and cylinder for me. So getting stumped at the first hurdle, as I start looking for other bits needed for install... Although I'm a bit hesitant to ask questions as it shows my lack of knowledge somewhat, here goes the first few questions to enter my head.. How would I size the pipework from the ASHP to the UFH manifold, is there a rule of thumb? The UFH has a design flow rate of 16.4 l/min, and the manifold is a max of 10 metres away from the heat pump. 5 bends at the most as the pipe goes up round and down! How do you decide if a buffer is needed? UFH Design volume is about 96 Litres this is a ground floor system, and all the loops are in rooms which will be used frequently so I'm happy to have the system act as a single zone. Pumps? Should I rely on the ASHP pump solely, or wire up the UFH pump too, then would I need to have a LLH, or is this a case of check the pump on the UFH circuit and see if it closely matches with the pump settings on the ASHP? Cheers Marek

Thanks for posting that, quite insightful for a newbie like me wants to know a bit more without overloading the grey cells. I dont have an ASHP installed yet. But have the UFH in. So when the ASHP is installed, I'm getting the message that I should chuck out the not yet installed loop actuators, set the loops to the design flow rates. Just have a single thermostat to monitor air temp to trigger the ASHP? Anything that causes on & off's in quick succession is bad? I've got a bit to learn on this subject but we all have to start somewhere...

Paid 1500 for our building regs drawings, 800 for the SE, 250 for SAP, 250 for a Bird/Bat and tree survey, all from 3rd parties. We felt there was no need to complicate an L shaped Dormer. Internal layout probably changed a few times during construction as we got a feel for the place, so super detailed drawings might have not have helped much...

TBH, I'd ask the manufacturer, or system supplier/designer what they'd recommend for your particular install. Check the ducting aswell, otherwise you may have an issue with condensation.