crispy_wafer

hats off to you, good going sir. Just had a look at the 9kW one myself as that size fits my needs, I'm a bit green, but handy and confident, the install instructions are in bloomin italian though... Scratch that, found the veissman installation manual

We use A2A at work, in the offices and lobbies etc, I blast them up to temperature pretty early then turn the fans right down on them, so no audible noise or noticeable draughts, so that, the high temperatures last summer and the fact that we'll get some heat from them is just a bonus, the bedrooms dont need to be above 18, anything more than that I struggle to sleep. I have noticed that the warm air doesn't get through doorways particularly well, so our unheated hallway is also a thought. However because we are having ducted and the unit has 3 in/3 extract, we have 2 in/2 extract to the bedroom, so maybe I could use the redundant one in the hallway, but it would only work of course when the bedroom is in use, better than nothing though

Yes, ducted just means the warm/cool air is delivered to the room via pipework and is sent into the room by grills or circular diffusers in the ceiling (normally), rather than physical units sat on the floor, high up, or ceiling mounted. The bits that do the work are suspended in the loft. Can be a multisplit, or non multisplit depending on how you want the system. In my case I have a multisplit going in Costing about 5,500 all in, which I think is in the right sort of ballpark, not cheap, but I'm doing this once and if it means the build takes a couple of months longer then so be it.

Another here who's having A2A installed upstairs (bedrooms) in our build. Whilst we have no plasterboard in situ and good access to loft and spaces, 2 ducted systems, and a wall mounted unit going in. Still thinking on what to do downstairs though, both for my pocket (Install, and monthly running costs), ease of use, least amount of faff, etc etc.

get a length of small bore hose from an automotive shop, attach to end of gun, it might want to curl/coil up so would using a bamboo cane as a splint might help... Just a thought.

Feed the cable through the duct before laying would be my choice. Just makes life easier all round, one less thing to do another time. Cant comment on the size of the cable unfortunately.

Slaps head because it just completely passed me by. Piddle poor design, but done now, how to make the best of it. 3 trusses side by side bolted together in various places as per. Best way to deal with stopping draughts on these. I'm thinking about taping the bottom and squeezing expanding wood glue into the cracks to try then tape over the top. Any other thoughts?

Good thinking. That'll work.

Just dragging this question back from the archives! Please can I clarify the approach for studding this section I put the stud wall in line with the blocks, but now I'm thinking this might not have been the correct approach, Should I have stepped the wall out by 10/15mm or so to account for the dabs on the back of the PB, that will run over the block/stud join?

Stunning,

🤣 of course, 👍

My builder laid mine, and left about inch gap around the edge where there are block walls, not sure if this is std practice or not, but has left me wondering how to fill the gap... Expanding foam just seems a bit naff, and a faff.

I'm seeking a bit of advice on how best to level a ceiling in preparation for boarding. The bit of ceiling is in our dormer, I've attached an old picture from last year showing the offending items. When measured from the laser, they are either about 3mm/7mm/12mm higher than the lowest timber cross (whasitcalled!) The area in the picture has all been insulated under, divided and stud walls added since that photo, so the main room in that area has 7 bits in total. 5 to deal with as 2 are level at the lowest point! Floor to timber is around 2330 - ish Not knowing how to deal with this properly/professionally, I started a thinking (dangerous), then consulted the google (probably even more dangerous). 1) use 3mm hardboard in multiple layers along the timbers to make up the depth and that'll do! 2) I have a load of res bar, that I could fix perpendicular, and pack out where i need to make level. 3) I have some c channel left, so lower the ceiling slightly by fixing c channel like the pic below 4) what would a pro do?

just to chime in, For bathrooms, I've been told to double up the plasterboard. Got RWA45 50mm as infill for studs. For ceilings I bought some knauf 100mm acoustic. Got a load of res bar, but, a cock up with the full size window height in the lounge means I have about 30mm of frame to play with.

I think so, my screed depth varies 10-20mm in places . The company I chose used a cemfloor product, The set up a level using mini tripods, and pump the screed in to meet the tripod level, once pumped in they mooch around with a tamping thing to ensure no air pockets, then they lightly float the top to ensure a smooth'ish finish.

Bit like this? I think 3/4 to 22mm compression elbow, then make up the loop, soldered Tee fitting and drain valve.

Hi all, In the process of battening out the Dormer for service cavitys and ensuring a nice level surface to fix the plasterboard sheets to, and somewhere to route cables should it be needed, I'm planning on running the battens from bottom to top on the inside of the truss over the insulation and VCL, do I need horizontal battens at the top, bottom, middle to give something to fix plasterboard to? The battens are approx 600 centres, some at 400, length of the board will be about 2.2m. Ta Marek

anything above dripping condensation?

For our MVHR ducts from outside I used some lengths of Domus Easipipe 2 piece insulation with cable ties.

For what it's worth, With our attic trussed room, I PIR'd from ridge to wall plate, seemed easier in my mind to detail insulation and airtightness running in straight lines from top to bottom.

Currently in discussions with a few companies about installing a multi split of a couple of slim ducted 2.5's and a wall mounted 3.5 unit for the upstairs of the build. Different companies like to align with certain manufacturers, although they can and will install others if asked, as such I've had quotes for a Hitachi based system, a Daikin system and one incoming for Mitsubishi Heavy Industries. Short of looking at and trying to fathom out the micro differences between SCOP and SEER for efficiencies, the visuals of the wall mounts, interface, and initial cost is there much else to consider? Also what brand AC do you have and what swung you towards that manufacturer?

Just looking at your diagram (I know it may differ from reality), but take care with the opposing waste connections.

Mine too is in the loft, on the hanger + a piece of 4*2 bolted to a gable wall, yet to plug it in. I have wondered about noise and resonance and then if suspending like they do with Air con units may be a better method.

Yeah, it's what I did to stop it from flopping around - Stuck to blocks. Butyl tape seems to be less tacky when cold, so I wafted a blowtorch over it just to warm it up then pressed it home.

Butyl tape will hold it in place, you may be using it to bond the dpm together anyway where it overlaps on the floor, so, a couple of blobs on the wall heated up with a blow torch then push the dpm up against it.