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Found 8 results

  1. I found some mention of this in other posts but not my specific question. Now that the hot weather is back I have noticed that on occasion the master bedroom in our current house is a little uncomfortable at around 25C although opening the windows soon fixes this. In the new place the master bedroom has a lot more glass, basically a west facing glazed gable and insulation levels are higher. This got me thinking should I consider "comfort cooling" which I often see advertised on flats in London. I believe that @JSHarris has this on his MVHR, I think via running his heating in reverse? In my case I would have to change the MVHR unit to one that allows cooling. It is partly an attractive option because we will have 3 MVHR units (Dantherm) but one supplies the most used rooms in the house with the most glass so I would only have the extra cost of changing that one unit. I spoke briefly to the heating engineer and he felt it wasn't worth it as there would be an considerable increase in costs because we would have to also up spec the pipework to allow for the possibility of water condensing in it. It would effectively have the same costs as putting in an AC system. He felt that summer bypass is enough, certainly in Scotland it would be rare for the actual outside air temperature to be well above 20C, especially in the evenings. Also we can always open the windows. If this isn't enough he recommended looking at solar reduction film for the windows or a through the wall AC unit. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience of using comfort cooling and how well summer bypass works in practice?
  2. UFH pipes go under the floor but, when linked by a ASHP, they can be used for cooling as well as heating, @JSHarris-style. But… air convection works against the cooling effect at the floor. So wouldn't it make sense to put the UFH cooling pipes in the ceiling not under the floor? Or… is the best compromise for both cooling and heating is not put them in the floor or ceiling but in the walls instead? Is this a silly idea? (I thought of this because, in my build, I may not have a concrete slab and have an insulated timber-frame floor instead. It strikes me that it could be just as easy to put the pipes in some of the internal walls as it is it put them on the floor.)
  3. This post covers more than just MVHR, but I wasn't quite sure where this post would be best placed. Admins feel free to relocate if need be! As you can probably guess by this post going up late on a Saturday, I've been doing a lot of modelling of our heating and energy systems for our house. It has taken a while to get the model to accurately reflect reality, but I think we've finally nailed it. Whilst not surprising, what it has clearly established is that: PV is a no brainier, provided you have the capital up front! Though that's another topic all together (posted here). The MVHR bypass will be insufficient to counter the solar gain during the peak summer months. It's often said that the biggest problem with passive houses (or near passive as our's is) isn't the heating, but the cooling. They're right! Thankfully we have opening windows and plans to use a canvas above our pergola to shade some of the southern windows. So more our of general curiosity, what else have people done to keep the tempretures stable and comfortable during the summer months?
  4. SteamyTea

    Sunny days and overheating

    As we have had a few sunny days recently and pretty close to the longest hours of daylight, has anyone suffered increased overheating? Decent temperature data is always welcome, but a general response is also useful.
  5. I was speaking to an engineer today about cooling our house should it need it. He was talking about fan coils when i mentioned cooling the slab with underfloor heating. His advised me not to due to condensation and the risk to the floor and concrete. He stated that it was due to the dew point/humidity in the house and the condensation around the pipes and on the floor. He stated it would form not just on the floor surface but under tiles and around the pipes Now i don't pretend to know anything about this but i am sure that those who have looked into cooling a slab must have considered this issue and mitigated against condensation forming. Can anyone help with this issue(if it is one)
  6. With temperatures hitting 25C today this has been the first real test of our house in terms of overheating and how to manage excess heat. When I designed our house, I crunched the numbers, taking into account average and peak daily solar gain. Due to the large amount of SW facing glass that we have, I knew we were going to have some overheating, based on maintaining an internal air temperature of 21C. My number crunching indicated that summer overheating resulting from solar gain could be managed by means of the MVHR summer bypass, and opening a window and ventilating with cooler ambient air, and where appropriate, using blinds or drawing curtains. Up until now, ambient air temperature has always been several degrees lower than internal air temperature making it very easy to control how much of that solar gain we wished to retain. In practice we haven't had to do much in the way of control, as internal temps have not exceeded 23C in the main living areas, the bedrooms remaining 1C cooler as they are on the north side of our site. Today's challenge was how would the house perform without any cool ambient air or active cooling (albeit I do have the capability to cool our slab). I'll be honest and say I was quite concerned, but I'm glad to report that internal temperatures remained lower than external, peaking at 24C in the living areas, 1C cooler in the bedrooms. As ambient air temperature fell to 21C late this afternoon, the summer bypass kicked in and began to ventilate cooler ambient air inside (interestingly, when ambient air was higher than internal, the bypass didn't activate) and I opened two windows, one on the ground floor and the velux on the 1st floor mezzanine to create a natural draw through the house to purge some of the warm air out. This worked brilliantly and rapidly reduced the internal air temperature down to 22C, and shows how effective this method of control is. How did everyone else fare today?
  7. Eventually I might add a conservatory/garden room to my new build dwelling. How can I pre-plumb my UFH circuits so that it is simple to get the UFH into this new area without digging up the floor all the way back to the manifold which will probably be the otherside the house? And related: if I were to put UFH pipework in an outdoor patio area (which could become the floor of the future conservatory) would I be able to: 1. 100% isolate the patio UFH pipework so that it does not lose heat in the winter (before conservatory built) 2. to use the patio UFH to dump any unwanted heat from the remaining UFH circuit to help cool the house (before conservatory built) Thanks
  8. Following on form the PHPP calls it looks like we'd benefit from some active cooling. I know Jeremy has the Genvex Premium 1 and is very happy with it, but are there any others out there worth considering? The only other that I've seen so far is the Paul/Zehnder one but that's coming out at about £7.5k plus vat - the Genvex Premium 2 that we'd need is about £5k from Denmark and £5.5k from the UK (both plus vat). I'd obviously like to get that down as much as possible if I can