Gone West

I've been told I can't start making a brise soleil until the garden is finished. We won't need one by the time that's done.

Well having the correct data makes all the difference. Thanks @epsilonGreedy that'll teach me to cut and paste without checking. Wendy won't be happy but it looks like we will need one after all. It now looks more like I expected it to.

Isn't that longitude. I think the North refers to hemisphere. No you're right it should be 51.292297.

Before we move into our house last year I had designed a brise soleil to shade our lift slide doors which are the only south facing glazing we have. Needless to say I never actually made it and having lived in the house for the first summer and now winter I’m not sure it’s needed. We had a nice lot of solar gain recently which meant there was no heating on in the house. IIRC last summer the sun only penetrated around 600mm into the room on the floor. I’ve run the software linked to by @Cambs and results suggest I would lose too much solar gain when I need it from October to February. Any comments? The doors are shaded completely before 12.00.

Many thanks for trying. Would you be willing to supply the name of the blind and the company you bought them from?

They look good. We are currently experimenting with different blinds that attach directly to the glazing. Wendy would like to see what the rails look like from the outside. Would you be willing to post a picture?

I can't tell from that if it is OSB3 or OSB2, the 03 might mean OSB3 or 2+ mean OSB2. Mine is Sterling Board OSB3 15mm thick although all markings have long disappeared.

What type of OSB is it? I have some offcuts of OSB3 that have been lying around in the garden for eight or nine years and have only just started to break up.

I ran my house design through PHPP with varying air tightness values from IIRC 0.2 to 2.0 and the difference in heat loss between 0.6 ACH and 1.0 ACH was very small.

So are you after the Imex CF101 or CF202? Why is one twice the price of the other when the spec. seems the same.

@recoveringacademic Revenge is sweet . You'll know maybe that I can edit your posts Peter?

@recoveringacademic It'll keep you busy tidying up that lot.

Almost word for word.

Okay I try again . What is the advantage of two 9kWh models compared to a UVC storing water at 45C.

I'm very glad I AVOIDED.

You must be right, I can only apologise again. Mind you there are a lot of insane people around .

Sorry.

https://store.walabot.com/uk/walabot-diy-pack.html Seems expensive but reviews not bad.

We have built a PH and have very little south facing glazing which consists solely of 2.4m x 2.4m lift slide doors. These are in shade until midday but the gain from the east and west facing windows is enough to keep the house warm at this time of year. We don't have an overheating problem in early spring and autumn but did find that the large glazed gable facing WNW caused overheating problems from mid April to mid August until we had solar control film applied to the glazing.

We had a 47m borehole drilled nine years ago through clay and shingle and it cost £3000. There were large variations in quotes, so get plenty.

I used the old original Devolo plugs for the last fourteen years until I moved into the new house. Had a couple in an extension board as well and none ever missed a beat. I guess I was just lucky.

Would the fact that it had never been charged in those two years mean that the battery pack would be in a worse or better condition than if it had been used.

We have a triple glazed roof window in our bathroom and I chose low (32%) solar transmission glazing. As a result we don't have a problem with overheating but it is slightly darker in there in the winter. The room faces ESE.

I seriously considered changing my DHW heating method to using a Sunamp around eighteen months ago and am so glad that I didn't.

I won't be selling mine for a while . I tend to go to Axminster Tools because they are fairly local and have a good selection.