Gone West
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Posts
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Everything posted by Gone West
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I used FreeCAD to create the model and .stl file. The cost of each of my hooks printed in nylon was 75p and they are 41.5mm long and solid.
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Thank you, that's a very generous offer, but I have ordered them from 3DPRINTUK and should receive them next week. I hope it all goes to plan as I know next to nothing about 3D printing although I do understand about triangulated surfaces as it was a large part of the modelling work I did 40 odd years ago.
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The OSB3 was square edge and butt jointed. I think that the 350mm of Icynene I have, is the largest contributor to the good airtightness result along with careful detailing around windows and doors. The vast majority of the offgassing happens in the first 24 hours.
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The temperature of the air from MVHR supplied to the living areas of the house is lower than the room temperature so it won't feel like warm air coming out of the vent, but it will be warmer than air directly from outside. The only way for the supply air to have a higher temperature is to use a MVHR post heater of some sort. -
Hi, welcome to the forum. Some friends of ours lifted the roof on their bungalow and they lived in it while the work was being done. I would say that having the whole building sheeted so work can continue whatever the weather is a very good idea.
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Hi, welcome to the forum. I'm trying to understand the makeup of your wall. Why do you have two 100mm block walls as well as a 150mm stone wall. Why not use stone slips on the outer block skin and increase the amount of insulation to stay within the 450mm. Alternatively use the 150mm stone wall as the outer skin and remove the attached block wall and again increase the insulation?
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We have an Isoquick insulated slab and all the rest bends and soil pipes run through the sub-base under the insulation. Our insulation is 300mm and with the sub-base meant the soil pipes entered the sewage treatment plant quite low down and we needed an invert on the tank.
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We have a Wren kitchen, supply only, which we fitted ourselves. Everything was delivered on time and for the price was good quality. Their kitchen 'designers' weren't much good in our case but everything worked out fine in the end. I had heard lots of horror stories but maybe we were just lucky.
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The new two bedroom bungalow next door was rated as an 'F' whereas the original bungalow on the site was a 'C', as was our old bungalow. The owner didn't challenge the rating. Our new house was assigned an 'F' rating, which we appealed against saying it should be a 'D' and the VOA lowered it to an 'E'. I think the VOA make it up as they go along and hope owners can't be bothered to appeal.
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As an update I've created an .stl file and got an estimate from the site that @Temp linked to. It all seems straightforward.
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Couldn't afford to buy oil anymore, building the new house has cleared me out .
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Painful, that's what it is.
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VAT - Service Disconnection
Gone West replied to andy's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
VAT reclaim's in the past. Working on other things now. Onwards and upwards . -
We have four AAVs and they are just above basin overflow level and are behind false walls in the bathrooms. We have been using them for nearly a year and, "touch wood", they seem to be fine.
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I think the term 'flood level' in relation to AAVs refers to the basin overflow level.
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I used Floplast AAVs which are "permitted to be used below flood level in locations where the temperature is in the range of -20°C to +60°C". I used them only very slightly higher than flood level but I don't see why they shouldn't be used below flood level as they are designed for that purpose. I think I would be cautious and check with some experimentation before final fitting though.
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@Carrerahill It was several years ago and the product might have changed but I used the Marley Universal Dry Hip/Ridge System. It was pretty straightforward to use. This is the PDF I downloaded at the time, it might be of some use. Marley Eternit Dry Fix Systems.pdf
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Excellent.
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VAT - Service Disconnection
Gone West replied to andy's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Openreach disconnection was free. UK Power Networks charged VAT and TBH it wasn't something I thought about, as it was after the VAT reclaim was submitted. -
I like 3 best.
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I have a dry ridge system and used 150mm stainless steel screws straight into the ridge timber.
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I'm surprised that the difference between RWA45 and RWA6, which I used, is so significant. The RWA6 is rigid and from the data sheet the kN/m2 for 10% compression is 3.0 for RWA45, and 28.2 for RWA6.
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@Onoff No I haven't done anything yet. I was trying to gauge how straightforward it would be to have them made and what the cost would be. The item is a small extension piece for the top of a vertical blind to allow it to be used on a steep slope. I was thinking possibly ASA as there might be a lot of UV degradation.
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Thanks, that would be useful.
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It's all in the title really. I may want to have around fifty small plastic hook and eye pieces made and I wondered if it was an easy process to get it done.
