PeterW

They are easier than an unvented cylinder !! 2 pipes and a power connection, and depending on how you use it, a timer trigger.

That is the self certification scheme for major house builders, not for spec builds by individual contractors. The NHBC warranty is also the most onerous in terms of build standards - if you go outside their spec they may not cover you and a lot of it is minimum building regs stuff and if you want to do better then it’s all non standard.

That isn’t how NHBC works - even if they are an approved contractor yoh still need to pay for the warranty. When you buy a new house with NHBC guarantee from a major developer it basically means they have paid the warranty on your behalf

Standard method is bonded glass or slide markers - photos are taken or measurements and then the crack sizes recoded over time. Quite a lot of work to do there - rebuild of the wall etc along with confirmation of any drainage issues which could require new drains or soakaways.

@saveasteading I am assuming you’re referring to this ..? https://www.gov.scot/binaries/content/documents/govscot/publications/advice-and-guidance/2020/02/the-small-buildings-structural-guidance/documents/small-buildings-structural-guidance/small-buildings-structural-guidance/govscot%3Adocument/Small%2BBuildings%2BStructural%2BGuidance%2B%2B.pdf

You’ll also need building control approval and they may not like gallows so worth finding out beforehand. Good advice here https://www.labc.co.uk/news/how-to-get-it-right-removing-chimney-right-way-video-showing-wrong-way It seems a bit steep to me to be honest, that’s not exactly a big job and if it’s patching the plaster and the ceiling I would say £3k at most, with £200 for the waste collection.

Domino tanks are easy to set up as you push cold into the last and treat it as a single volume. Heating it is as simple as using zone valves on the return from the coils to divert back along the run dependent on volume required. For simplicity sake, a double pole switch and a manual 3 way valve to direct flow and switch between the thermostats is all you need. It’s not like you will be using complex controls to decide how much water you want to store as it will be planned. Designed a couple of these using multiple 250 litre tanks and works very well.

That will fail building regs - they can serve a single room only and that includes bathrooms so if you put a bedroom / bathroom up there it has to have standard stairs. Agree with this - and by the time you’re doing a new roof you may as well go to an extension as anything below 1.4m height is pretty much unusable so your 8x5 will be much less by the time you have finished.

Why not ..?? You can wall mount a 50 litre buffer and it will save short cycling the boiler and you can independently control the zones then too. another vote to find something else … for all the things Honeywell do well, this isn’t one of them ..!

Combi what ..? A lot of the built in ones are grill microwave not oven microwave. Are you considering using as a second oven ..?

For the cost of an IC, depending on depth I would install one anyway as a demarcation chamber.

So dependent on where you are in the UK, the requirements will be for a commercial solution which could cost upward of £3k for tanks pumps controls etc. I am in the Severn Trent area and with a house of 4, the water and sewerage costs are around £300/year. Rainwater harvesting will cover about 25-30% of your water usage so it is likely that you have something with a 25-30 year payback … with lots of moving parts and hassle.

So why not install it somewhere else that is going to be permanent ..?? Not sure what work you are planning (demolish / rebuild ..?) but if you install a kiosk or small new structure away from the house then install the charger in that. When you demolish etc, get the permanent power for the house reinstalled at this point and have the meter moved to the same location, and you can now run whatever power you want for the site and the new house from there. You can also look at 3Ph and have a dedicated car charging phase installed - all options and you’re doing the groundwork once.

Showers WC Pans Baths Built in furniture Kitchen Cabinets Staircases Larders Everywhere else is fine and tend to self regulate when you put other things on top of them anyway.

Miele make one. Or do you want the dispenser out of the front ..? They are available but start at about £5k from what I can see and they are custom doors etc. https://www.miele.co.uk/e/built-in-freezer-fns-37492-ie-10845360-p

You cannot use a 250mm IC to connect to a lateral foul drain that is owned by Severn Trent. Firstly, they are for plastic pipe and you have clay. Secondly, any connection is required by law to meet Sections 106 to 109 of the Water Industry Act 1991. That requires any chamber to be built to meet the Design and Construction Guidance as detailed for sewer connection and construction. Thirdly, if you block or disrupt the flow to the upstream properties and cause any issues you will be legally liable for damage caused and the charges from ST for resolution can and will run to thousands. I really suggest you get this done by a contractor who has the appropriate certification and insurance to do such a job. It isn’t a DIY job, and it can go horribly wrong.

OK so build over and connection are two very different things ! The main run you want to connect to isn't yours, and you can't connect without permission. You need to have a contractor with connection permission do it, or follow the guidance very carefully and then get ST to inspect it before it is covered over.

If I am reading that right then you want to cut into the pipe that runs from next door..? If so, you need your sewage providers permission to connect as that isn’t your pipe to connect to and would need to put a manhole along with a secondary IC on your side of the pipework near the new soil stack. All of that is notifiable works and requires building regulations approval.

either vertical or horizontal (has to be above the outlet in any case) and has a single bracket that holds it. It is only the small central tube that gets extended so is about 50mm dia

Plume kit can go up to within 300mm of the bottom of the eaves or has to go 300mm higher than the roofline but I would go with the former to begin with.

Is it all blue ..??? If so it is Acoustic pipe which is pointless in a slab but does marginally improve things above ground and in ceilings etc however you can use acoustic insulation (which you should in ceiling voids) so it’s marginal. And what’s the spec ..?? As if you didn’t have it on the spec you should have been consulted

Can you screenshot and PM me an example ..? Ta

I would take one of those shelving units out and I think you’ll be surprised as you will be able to get all the way along in the eaves I expect. First job, get PIR cut and fitted into the vertical wall panels from behind, and then work back and just roll back cheap loft insulation on the floor behind those walls and then leave it. The attic space, get up there and get 400mm of insulation up there, and then seal it and leave it. Not sure how old they are but I’m surprised that there isn’t min 250mm up there already. That will leave the skeilings which are a pain to do without stripping back but they are a small area so this should start to improve things.

Tape it. Belt and braces

PIR..??? Thought it Was timber sorry !!! Nothing will hold in that unless it is threaded