PeterW

Some of the things I’ve seen on sites over the past 18 months (and this is supposedly on final handovers of £3-600k houses) make these pictures look tame … quality is appalling unless you keep a check on things - there are lots of people out there who fit into the camp of all the gear and no idea …

I use BLT Direct https://www.bltdirect.com/light-bulbs

I want to know what it is as it’s a bit tall for a soil vent … looks like it was a Friday afternoon fitting, and it’s a proper hatchet job … as a minimum it needs a flashing under the tiles above but I do wonder what is holding the tiles below from sliding..!

Speak to Wandsworth - they have every option imaginable ..! And they will do custom if you can’t decide..! https://www.wandsworthelectrical.com/collections/infinity/

£500 to £50,000…. Size, finish, spec, engineering.. list goes on. What does it replace and how much other space do you lose..?

Pretty much an exact copy of a Marley Modern and company owned by Tarmac’s parent company. They are an Irish company so not sure if any of the likes of @Declan52 or @Conor have heard of them.

@Stones as @joe90 said, SKF are a good brand and they come with decent longevity. This is your same bearing in a sealed for life unit but £2.35 each https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing/626-2z-skf-shielded-deep-groove-ball-bearing-6mm-bore/

No … twin wall is sized by the inner diameter not its outer. So 4” has around 1 1/4” of insulation making it about 6 1/2” in diameter when it is installed. 4” stove pipe to a 4” twin wall through the roof. That 6” stuff is too big and won’t draw well so keep searching Facebook ..!!

Yes and it becomes less efficient so you have to size accordingly. Some manufacturers also give you the maximum run from the hood and every elbow adds something like 0.5m effective length. Yes but you’ll need to somehow convert back to round / airbrick when you get to the wall but not an issue however long runs can collect grease so make sure you have decent filters at the extractor end.

Correct - it is per metre.

Divorce may be easier …

Do you really mean -40°C..??!! 75sqm of concrete - which is probably 150mm or more thick - will take a lot of work. You’ll need a 5 tonner with pecker on it and it will take 2-3 days of work to break that lot up and then the same to clear it. You’ve then got a lot of concrete to get rid of…. Your other issue may be that there is reinforcing mesh in the slab. That will be a problem for both breaking up and removing. If it is a barn - and you have the height - then I wouldn’t be removing the current deck. I would be looking to fill the holes, edge with a row of blocks and then overlay with 100mm of insulation and then go with mesh on chairs and top with concrete. You can easily build up a ramp to take the 200mm or so of the new slab and tbh it will be much cheaper than taking it out and the difference will be negligible. I would say though unless you’re going to sort walls and the roof then insulation in the floor is going to be an expensive folly !!

You can get 4” twin wall - it isn’t expensive. Do the lot in 4” but given that you only need a length of each plus bits it should be £120 tops.

Climaflex round the pipe and then foam that in place. Adding a few stainless pan scouters to the mix does deter the small furry beasts. One of these also finishes it off nicely.

That needs all removing and redoing. The absolute minimum headlap is 75mm at 15° and you’re probably looking at less than that on that edge and that will get driven rain under it. Whole lot including battens off and I would want membrane replaced too as it will be like a seive and it will leak. That is missing a full row or two of tiles - needs to be re-gauged and start again.

@zoothorn did you read my last post slowly and take it on board ..?? 1m length of single wall single to twin adapter 1m length of twin wall through the roof top hat you need a bracket somewhere on the twin wall near the bottom but that’s it ….

Right. So you need a 1m length of stove pipe , a twin wall to enamel adapter and then a 1m length of twin wall and a cap. Did you look at that link I sent..??

@zoothorn What diameter is the hole in the top of the stove..? How far is it from top of stove to bottom of the roof ..?

@zoothorn you will set fire to the cabin - you need to use twin wall. Start looking on Facebook - this isn’t far from you I think and it’s £50..

Nope just drill through with a 25mm masonry bit and sleeve with 25mm conduit and seal each end with lots of low modulus sealant.

It stops rotation and allows you to use the torsional strength of the thinner profile. See it quite a lot and they usually also specify whether spacer tubes are required or if the flanges need to touch. In reality they are acting as Channel sections with an overlap into the cavity which won’t cause any issues.

But you don’t make the beams central or they would overhang - the whole point of bolting them together is that you create a single beam and both webs will be on brickwork.

Your only choice is SWA as you cannot install split concentric yourself (only allowable by DNO to a fuse head) Also worth looking at the loads on the pods and using a smaller cable to each from an isolator at the meter point as you may find it works out cheaper than one large to each and easier to terminate. You have a WC block on the plan - other option is terminate the SWA there for all services and then spur off to the pods at that point.

Unlikely any DNO will let you do this as the cable would be unprotected and they need access to their assets without having to cause undue damage to a property. As previous - kiosk and then it’s your sparkies issues to resolve.

But it’s two side by side so ~270mm in a cavity wall, which should be a minimum 300mm wide…