PeterW

that is a big fire risk. There should be a fire barrier at the top of that wall - in the event of a fire in either property you could get spread of smoke or flame between units. At what cost ..?? Aerogel will give you the most thermal performance but would cost thousands for that wall. If he has battened out to 38/40mm then I would put 35mm Celotex in the spacing and then board over it but that does not meet anywhere close to building regulations and it will always be a cold room. What is happening to the floor ..??

It is in the lintel spec but the blockwork at the back is usually a minimum of 300mm prior to any wall plate or loads.

Forum doesn’t use html tagging currently and I’ve tried to follow some of your links by copy/paste and I get an image not found ..?

@Adrian Walker installer list is here https://sunamp.com/sunamp-resellers-installers/map/business-category/installers/

I think if you read @Nickfromwales comments carefully he wouldn’t go near one with a very long pole …. But I may be putting words in his mouth ..! 🤣

Woooaahhh..!!! Is that now the case ..??! So the new Thermino units have to be fitted by installers ..?? So we have a unit with 2 pipes and 1 wire and a nice tidy £500 install bill for something with no moving parts or pressure vessel etc ..?? They really have decided that the market is ripe for abuse innovative products that can be upsold…

If he’s happy with XHD then fine - extreme duty are sometimes specced for large openings and make sure you have the space for the minimum brickwork above the lintel as that is sometimes missed.

So they will be extreme duty lintels a minimum of 4400 long - what have you budgeted for as they are around £1100 each and are on silly lead times some areas of the country. They also need big padstones and propping when they are being bricked over prior to loading as they can twist. I would check your contractor knows these are coming, and I would get them ordered ASAP and have them on site early as they could screw up your whole build plan otherwise.

cos there is bugger all that will pull a consistently high current for the period it does to charge..!!

So what holds up the edge of the roof ..???

What size steel and deflection limit have you specced above them ..?

Packers you just stack up - just use Broad Pack or similar.

@lakelandfolk have you got an attic space ..? You can get a horizontal UVC that wouldn’t take up that much space as long as you can get it through the hatch ! The Solax can’t control a diverter load other than battery but any of the Eddi/Immersun type devices can take excess load from PV off to the tank. You would still need a simple timer to use the Octopus Go tariff but once you’ve maxed that out you can either boost via solar diversion or just by a simple boost switch.

Easy to do, if you take your your time. Bed the cill on to a wet mortar mix with a strip of DPC stapled to the bottom of the cill. This takes up any uneven brickwork. For the sides, just use these to fix the frame to the brickwork with packers either side of each screw. Measure the frame for square across the diagonals and check it still closes and locks before you tighten too much. Try and get packers behind hinges too if possible. For the top, I would make up a frame of CLS and then add a middle brace and screw it to the top of the door and to each side with a spare frame fixer. Infil with some insulation - doesn’t matter what but PIR or EPS would be best, then fit a front panel made of 9mm ply and glue and screw it all the way round. You can add cover strips or detail on the edges after. Same on the inside, you’re looking to cover 200mm which is nothing really. Once it’s all leveled and plumb, round the edge carefully with some foam and then leave to dry, trim back and a bead of sealant.

Ok so £250-300 per day for a brickie and a couple of days. Don’t forget that converting a garage to habitable space needs building control approval and it needs to be done right.

@bob the builder 2 you’ve asked the wrong question and everyone is answering it ..!! If your TF provider is insulating using blown cellulose then you have a warm roof to start with. You can’t change that unless you change the insulation and a whole load of other things. What I think you are asking is whether to ventilate behind the standing seam zinc and the answer there depends on what the supplier requires as some will be happy to go onto your current counterbattens and others may require OSB or fleece backed underlay prior to laying. If you want to ventilate the rafter level space then you have a lot of work to do to join membranes and sort partial fill insulation which will need to be a change to your TF spec.

This stuff is good

What will the final floor finish be ..?

Is that the limit from your waste water provider ..? And is that M10-D or M100-D..??

Based on what ..? And attenuation to where ..? A soakaway or to a storm drain ..?? Who’s done the calculation ..?

Sorry - that statement doesn’t make sense ..?? Why do you need gas with a UVC but not with a Sunamp..?? Your Sunamp would be direct electric..? And it has a footprint similar to a 250 slimline UVC so it takes up no more space than what it replaces ..? If you go E7/PV you can also divert any excess the tank and “overheat” it as you can take a UVC to 85°C with no issues and add another 1/3rd hot water capacity which you cannot do with a Sunamp. A 200l “equivalent” Sunamp will cost the thick end of £2200 inc VAT. The same in a slimline direct UVC is £550 inc VAT. The ~£1600 difference buys a lot of electricity.

I know Meridian well and they are very good. Pragmatic and helpful.

That is not good advice. I would never spec or install without - you lose all zone control and you will get hot spots and poor boiler modulation. So this doesn’t meet building regs which require temperature controls.

@Oceanjulesthe whole door or leaving space for a window..? Are the bricks either side being toothed in (the halves removed so the bricks bond correctly) or is it just a quick brick up..? And where are you in the U.K..? As that will affect pricing etc

@Amateur bob I’m not sure where this is heading tbh. If you want a cheap easy design then a rectangular box is the cheapest preferably no wider than 6m and with no daft protrusions. It’s then up to the engineer or architect / technician to draw up a simple plan and you submit to planning. That’s the cheapest way, and the cheapest build. Borrowing someone else’s design and saying “will this be cheap” is nigh on impossible to say as there are too many variables. What is your entire budget, have you got land already, and where are you so we understand the local vernacular etc.