PeterW

The stuff from PSW trade is not the same as Wunda - not by a long way. I’ve fitted both, they are chalk and cheese. And only go with the Wilo pumps - they are virtually silent.

I would never mix and match unless I wanted to spend time making sure it all worked together and time was not money. I had to try and bodge some 15mm speedfit clone pipe into some 16/15mm adapters on a no brand manifold for a mate and it took me 3 hours to make off 8 pipes with no leaks. Plumber had similar issues once the pipe was pulled in too as standard fittings were weeping as the pipe seemed to be slightly oval. He had saved £150 on the bits overall, extra 2 days of the plumber cost him £400, my time cost him a lot more than a beer …!

Don’t use screed - you can get foil UFH designed for laminate.

So looking at the spares it’s 54812 and comes as a pack of 5 but it’s out of stock/back order pretty much everywhere ..! It looks a fairly standard rubber washer so I would go down to the local hydraulic place and see if they have anything or if you can wait a few days order a pack of these https://www.bes.co.uk/1-2in-nitrile-hose-washers-pack-of-10-11474/

Here you go https://www.bathroomspareparts.co.uk/porcelanosa-flexi-hose-100041333-189125-p.asp

Needs to be the one for the cistern as they have a flanged end and a weird fitting from memory if it’s the same as the Porcenelosa one (which is a rebrand)

Section or plan would help ..?

Should be a rubber washer in the end of the fitting ..? Is it not there ..? Best / quickest way to use these is to fit a 1/2” to 15mm push fit (ironically Speedfit is easier as it doesn’t need tools to release it. Then you can just test your connection once and then just push it onto the end of any pipe.

Yes you always insulate under the slab otherwise you’re basically heating the earth. It won’t meet building regs without.

Yep - which is basically using straw bales as a very expensive insulation .. would be better with blown cellulose at that point.

So if you’re doing this for low embodied energy reasons then don’t bother as your glazing will be more energy intensive - go with a concrete ring beam on helical piles which is a standard detail and then crack on with everything else. What is your air tightness detailing as you’ll be into some pretty substantial air permeability with bales.

No. It will bend and warp and is usually made of low grade timber in B&Q… Either do it properly or do it in UPVC.

Screws … as in every 150mm..!!

3@32mm is going to cost you more than 1@63mm. Your big restriction will be the connection to the main - have you had a price for this as anything over a 22mm meter is non standard and could be very expensive.

How many have you got to do..? You may struggle getting a neat 300mm hole that deep but if you work on it being roughly 2 cubic feet that’s going to take 4 buckets ballast, 2 sand and 1 cement so you’ll probably only get 2 posts to the bag if you’re lucky.

@Onoff this is a good guide https://www.gardenforumhorticulture.co.uk/gyo/Square-Foot-Gardening.pdf

The issue on SDS is the clutch is designed for the torque on the maximum bit size, not the torque you will apply using a core bit. The maximum in masonry with that Erbauer for example is less than 30mm in masonry - Whilst the leverage on a 117mm will be lower, the chance of it snatching with a core drill is much higher, especially on blocks where you have no idea what is inside them. This is imperative - ladders are asking for an accident.

Assuming all are showering at the same time you need 100 litres/min or thereabouts which on a 32mm MDPE is going to be near impossible. At those flow levels over 250m you will have a pressure loss of 4-6bar depending on the point the 25mm is connected from the main feeder pipe. Given your average mains supply is 3-5 bar, you will have no pressure at the far end of the run by the time you get to that shower. This should ideally have been done in 63mm where you would have had less than 0.25bar pressure drop due to flow and then reduced to 20mm feeds to each pod. Out of interest, how are you heating the water for the showers ..??

Really not advisable to use a 117mm core bit in an SDS - they are not made for it and there is no slip clutch on an SDS drill so when it catches on something in a dense block it will spin and break your wrist or smack you in the face … Go hire a core drill unit and do it properly.

(B) using a UVC and the boiler but put a heat pump cylinder in so when the boiler packs up it is a straight swap for the boiler and the cylinder lives on. I wouldn’t fit a Sunamp if it was free and @Nickfromwales offered to fit it in his lederhosen live on YouTube….. Before you rip it out though have you checked both the PHE pump and the flow switch are working ..?? Would be odd for a PHE to fail that quick so I would check you’ve got decent flow before you rip the lot out …

4” single fits to 4” twin wall using an adapter. … Does this help..??? (And before the pedants point out the flue goes into the inside flange of the stove, it is a sketch not the bleedin’ MI’s…!!!))

They are playing the CDM game… are you paying them to erect the frame.? If so, make them the main contractor for that period and then it becomes their issue.

For what though ..? Working on site ..? Are they assuming you are the main contractor ..??

For who..?? Insurers..??

We used to do through build phase inspections to catch issues before they were found at handover (when invariably they are just bodged) and found it increasingly difficult to get access especially on big sites. Had all sorts of reasons thrown at us (H&S, Insurance, “Qualifications”..) as to why we couldn’t inspect but invariably it was because a lot of corners were getting cut and the quality level on a £500k house was appalling. I’ve got some photos somewhere but there is one where the wall in the en-suite was so far out of plumb they added another layer of plasterboard half way up and they still had a good 10mm bed of adhesive at the top… and that was one of the good ones !!!