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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    So 75x100 is used as wallplate so should be widely available. C24 only relates to the grading quality - I would be happy with a 75x100 at 1.25m and then I would also look to remove the remaining posts and replace them with 50x100 with a decent 50x100 sole and top plate to ensure that it was all stable and nothing was going to move in the future.
  2. PeterW
    Is the roof designed yet...? I'd consider an 8x2 purlin on that last but one block and then its going to be either 4x2 or 6x2 rafter depending on span. Set the purlin at the roof angle so you're not cutting birdsmouths and then its a seat cut at the bottom and a plumb cut at the top...
  3. PeterW
    ...... for the next 18 months .....?? I'm sure you must live with a saint ...!! I've compromised and stay away from things that belong on mood boards and I'm doing structure ..!! The big issue for me is agreeing things such as socket placement and that once they are in, they are set ....!
  4. PeterW
    Right... wading through 14 pages of hand cranked calculations is always fun ....!! Not..!! The engineer has made some assumptions .. 1. That the existing beam supporting the floor above the stairs is C24 grade 72x112 (assume he's measured this) 2. That there will be no more than 1.25m from the wall to the first post. 3. The first upright post is 50x100 C24. From the drawing it looks like the first post is to be removed but from your photo it looks like there is a new post - what distance is the new post from the wall ..??? I would hazard a guess that EITHER : - the new post is non-structural and was put in when someone boxed up the staircase; Or - the joist above has shown some movement and they have put the new post in to hold up the joist therefore making it structural ..! There is no way I can tell from a photo what the right answer is so I would suggest you grab a tape measure and see how much space there is to the first post ..!
  5. PeterW
    C24 is standard grade timber - I have a stack of it ..! 72x112 is a random size though - that's 3" x 4 1/4" in old money so you may struggle. I'd suggest going for 96x96 or 4x4 which is easily found.
  6. PeterW
    Hmmm ..... so I could extend the garage and include the door for that into the "covered walkway"...??? It's an attached garage but no door into the house ..
  7. PeterW
    As long as there isn't anything below the level of the bank for a good way up stream you can always build a temporary dam with some blocks and some plastic sheeting - cover the bottom of it with some gravel and it will stay fairly watertight for you. Just raise it by 8-10" at most.
  8. PeterW
    But if it has a glazed roof it's a conservatory ... and exempt from both ..!
  9. PeterW
    I was half way through typing the same post @ProDave..!! Get a bucket and drill some small holes in it all round and submerse that into the stream - pump goes into the bucket and keeps all the big crud out of the water. You may want a strainer on the output too if it's going to a sprinkler.
  10. PeterW
    I would want one that is for 2 man use - they should have a torque clutch on them to stop the inevitable wrist break but they are better when they have the wide handles. Its roots and bricks that stop them normally - clay isn't an issue.
  11. PeterW
    We just tend to dig deeper than necessary and then it's a brick into the bottom to provide a firm base and in goes the post. I hire the petrol post augers as they do the job much quicker than a person can.
  12. PeterW
    A cheap wet and dry would do it - serious suction ..!
  13. PeterW
    iBathUK have an eBay store too - may be able to get something that would fit ..?
  14. PeterW
    Hoover ..... and don't tell the missus ..!!
  15. PeterW
    She's done well ..!!
  16. PeterW
    @Nickfromwales it's resin not ceramic so that will repair ..! And yes, @Calvinmiddle it's a long story but they repaired a sink in very nice holiday rental that got damaged in similar circumstances to you involving a small child and a rock .... The tw@t I rented it from wanted me to pay for the repair, lose my deposit and his loss for cancelling the booking after ours ... Think it was about £150 from memory.
  17. PeterW
    I bet they can fix it .... it's what No Nails was invented for ..!!
  18. PeterW
    Take it there is some CT1 going on those joints as some are going to end up the "wrong" way up..??
  19. PeterW
    Thought conservatories were exempt too ..??
  20. PeterW
    It was in the sale and I needed a slim tank as it fits in the corner so I had it with 25mm of insulation on it - yes I'll get higher losses but I may box it in and give two sides some more when it's fitted properly. It cost me £100 - look in the clearance section on the site.
  21. PeterW
    Scratch that - just read the spec ..! As its a resin sink - get the bath doctor to it and get it repaired. http://www.plastic-surgeon.co.uk/article/basin-repair/
  22. PeterW
    What are the sink dimensions ...??
  23. PeterW
    Usually have to hold a minimum of NVQ1/2 in plumbing or extensive experience of heating systems - some also need you to be HETAS/GSR registered. Not much to the course according to my mate - it's more about understanding the building regs and the rules on safety valves etc.
  24. PeterW
    Yep pretty much my experience too. The tank is a standard 900x300 and whilst having the tappings as you say, the basic 70-80 litres at 37c is here nor there when it comes to being used as a buffer as you won't get much stratification anyway. I have a Wunda mix valve and manifold - will be swapping it for an Esbe unit with a lower blending temperature as plan to run the floor at 31c. The idea of the buffer is to give the floor something to work with when the ASHP is in DHW mode - it also allows the ASHP to run for 15 mins which is what it should take to bring it up from 20c to 37c if I've worked it out correctly .... It will be fine - better than the short cycling you will get on an ASHP as it struggles to modulate down to the 0.5 - 1kw you will need when you're at the end of the heat cycle. Also means you can prioritise DHW and not be cold ....
  25. PeterW
    Very tidy ..! Got any photos of the sides and the down pipes .?
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