PeterW

So for external use, a carrier provides the mechanical means of securing the slips to the walls. Without it, you are expecting the shear strength of EPS and adhesive to hold the slips on. I can’t see any adhesive manufacturer or ICF manufacturer warranting that sort of system as it doesn’t have any mechanical fixing. In terms of cost, slips are no cheaper than bricks tbh, the difference is the skills to apply and speed of installation hence why you can get them in panels as they are designed to be used on prefab buildings etc and also as retrofit. I would start by giving Wetherbys a call...

One of the oldest suppliers is Wetherbys and their system is designed for EWI and is a steel grid system. Easy to use and strong too. I looked at this for a job in a conservation area and the plan was to use reclaimed bricks cut to slips on an ICF build to meet planning requirements.

Yep sorry - just re-read that.

Errr nope ..!! That’s not how slips work..!! You need some sort of carrier system - this one is thin EPS but others are metal frames. https://www.eurobrick.co.uk/v-clad

Truth being if you sub the bits out, it will cause problems as for things such as timber frame your founds need to be spot on +\-5mm along the lengths so if you get this wrong, the timber frame doesn’t fit properly. Then you have to sort that, and it puts your costs up and timeline behind. Electrics will be part p notifiable so you’ll need an electrician anyway.

Ok ... so how will you keep them perfectly spaced and level..?? Most systems use a carrier board that you bond the slips to, or sometimes are in preformed panels.

You could make those ..! They are PU coated fabric, which to anyone else is just wipe clean tablecloth material from a hardware shop. Cut it to length and then make a mandrel from another piece of hose, make sure you’ve got a good overlap and then glue the join with something like clear CT1.

Not sure if dewalt dog screws would be good enough but are certainly designed for this sort of thing.

Look at the Jetfloor system that uses beams with EPS infil rather than blocks if you have to go down any sort of suspended flooring route. It combines the insulation and floor in one, and is definitely better than the usual block/insulation/screed sandwich that is used in standard beam and block.

Wall plates on an bobtail truss always go under A. There is only a cold bridge if you don’t insulate the ends. What carrier system are you using for the slips ..?

Nope - has to sit on a proper wall plate. If you are cladding in brick then you just build up the outside of the stub wall. Ask the manufacturer to put stubs at ICF thickness and you can insulate within that.

This .... And this... A word of caution for anyone who finds images on a second hand device. Do not delete them, do not copy them onto a separate disk or USB key. If they are of any dubious nature, give the device to the police and details of the transaction and walk away. There is no defence for copying or distributing indecent images if you start to create copies !!!

What gets me is a 20” Oregon bar and chain is £40....

4.8m span, 225mm depth, 89mm chord and 600 centres for about 26 plus some shorter ones for a stairwell (5 from memory plus a mahooosive double one) and all the z-clips and the 3x2 for the noggins, 95sqm of Egger protect and glue etc was just shy of £2k.

Fantastic quality. Better than all the sheds and Howdens.

Not the best picture but you can see how the two ducts here come through the DPM. This was just before the concrete was poured - both drop down below the ground level in a slow bend. The orange tape is where the DPM was sealed to the ducts. Black tape used to cap them off so the concrete didn’t end up down the duct !!

Ok - have you spoken to your local Builders Merchant..? First stop is the local BM, get to know the branch manager and tell him what you are doing. Some offer a QS take off service from plans (don’t rely on this to order, but it’s a good guide) and will price accordingly. What you will be looking at is full RRP and that is not what you will pay if you set an account up and let them price accordingly. For example, local BM has shower wall on their website at £93.20+VAT for a panel. My price is £58.16+VAT, based on a quote received. Blocks are £1.60 each, I pay 93p etc. The big chains get a bad name but there is nothing stopping you getting an account with 2 and playing them off. Also remember that delivery will be free. I stored 8000 bricks in my local TP yard for 4 months and called them off 6 pallets at a time. All for free. The internet can’t replace the personal relationship here - they may also know some good trades who can help you with the build too.

Screwfix floor paint is usually pretty good - trick is to hoover the floor to start with and water down the first coat with white spirit and apply thinly with a roller. When it’s tacky, apply the next coat at right angles and it will bond fine.

Wrong way round .... set is when it’s hard enough to walk on etc, cured is its 28 day strength reached.

Spikes are too short and too thick - need to be flexible but sharp.

Eh...?? Dug Founds Tuesday, poured Thursday, marked out Friday, first course blocks following Monday .... There is a big difference between set and cured with concrete.

Depends where you are in the U.K...? The big merchants these days can get decent pricing plus you don’t have to wonder where to store 20 pallets of bricks. There are also places such as Huws Gray who will do bricks across the country however you get into law of diminishing returns as your transport costs increase. Bricks don’t actually make up that much of the total cost of a build anyway, so having a ready supply from a merchant can outweigh any saving of being a few short or having a crew sat waiting for a delivery.

Cheap e-Cig and clear glycerine and water mix would allow you to find anything too and they don’t smell like smoke matches

Errr ... no.... Notice is, and councils started to send letters to neighbours along with the standard local paper route, both of which meet the requirements. The issue now is cost, and I know my local council are going back to posting a laminated PP notice in the area as it’s cheaper than sending 20 letters to the neighbours.

This is why DNO don’t use SWA for power supplies - they use concentric. At 500m you are looking at a fair cost whatever you do , but they tend to subsidise and in Scotland it’s also cheaper sometimes due to grants. Not sure why you want 200A supply though...?? May be cheaper with 2 x 100A supplies.