PeterW

Its actually pretty dangerous and there are plenty of accidents where shovels get caught in the mixer blades. The handles will spin round and break wrists or do other damage. What you are describing here is a gauging bucket or gauging box - see this for a useful guide

If its in a shed, then you would be better off using conduit and metalclad boxes for mechanical protection. As its a new circuit to a Consumer Unit then it is notifiable under Part P as per @JSHarris

I would now go with 150mm or 125mm deepline as a matter of course on any building. Cost difference is negligible and the increased flow capacity means you get very few overflows in extreme rain. Keeping tight bends to a minimum is also a good move - Lindab do really nice swan neck downpipes in 85mm round and they flow very well.

Curved wavy tin comes in standard widths - double check that your design uses these and you will keep the costs down.

BCO can't, but planning could... Is this just in the BRegs Submission..?

Any way that something like an Activated carbon filter would remove that @JSHarris..? Just wondering if a pair of 20" filters may be preferable to some sort of backwash facility..?

Put 4 panels of flints in it - nothing holding the sides together otherwise.

I saw this done and they put a 5 degree chamfer on the top edge of each board (actually cut a 150mm board in two) to stop any water settling on the top edges and it looked very good.

Pretty easy to drop timber into the U channel - tends to get done on uprights where doors go but not much else.

Send them the pictures. If you’re not in a conservation area then the trees are irrelevant. Also include the history - it’s a field gate from the looks of that anyway so a hardcore base isn’t a problem and doesn’t need PP.

You don’t need a breather space with a lot of the new membranes. You can also get away with sarking and counter battens for air space

I expect the 2nd Hearth has been added later and just cast in above. It wouldn’t be surprising if it was quite small and when the owner wanted to widen the upper hearth to build round the base one. It would have to come out top down - what’s on the second hearth..? Wood burner ..??

What year building regs are you using ..? and what’s the u-Value in the DER/SAP..? For ease and simplicity I would go with Attic trusses as you get both the floor and the roof in one hit. Easy and simple to manage, any crew can do it. You also get a full set of plans and the design done for you - most if not all will do a site survey prior to manufacture so you get an accurate roof. Some now also use Wolf/Posi systems for the trusses so you can get very deep roof construction that is very light. I wouldn’t go with any sort of panel system with that design - too many odd angles and you can’t tweak them the same way you can move a piece of OSB etc.

SolarSmart blinds are available in Australia - they have an integral solar panel and a dc motor and battery system.

Isn’t this a bungalow ..?? What’s above ..?? and why not a short projection corner WC..?? https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/venice-modern-corner-toilet-with-soft-close-seat

You need 400-450 from the centerline of the pan to the wall to be usable

You could use a pressure flushing valve to flush the pan but cost would be your issue there.

You could just machine the sleepers to support this - fairly easy done. You would end up with gaps as sleepers are only 100 or 125mm deep, but the gap would be fine as it will be less than 100mm as per regs.

50% on something of the 130-150sqm 2 storey type build. Thats assuming nothing fancy, mid range windows and doors, tile roof and facing bricks at £700/Th. Standard roof construction, trusses etc.

Basement costs are how long is a piece of string. Ground conditions for example..? How high is the water table ..? If you have a high water table in clay, you have the triple whammy of having to shutter the site, pay top whack for disposal, and use a waterproof basement system probably with membranes or other waterproofing systems. If it’s a low water table on sandstone, you have none of the issues above and the costs could be less than half or a third. There is no simple answer without digging a hole ....

Ok Zone Valve or 2 port valve has a microswitch in it. When the valve is fully open, the micro switch closes, which would either give 230v to the boiler to fire, or close a set of no volt contacts on the boiler. Currently, your boiler fires when the time clock is set to on, and the thermostat on the TS calls for heat. New setup, you put the 2 port (closed) valve in the flow from the boiler, and the live feed to this is taken from the boiler switch wiring - ie what would normally make the boiler go live. Now when TS and time clock call for heat, the motor on the valve is energized, the valve opens and when it’s fully open, the micro switch triggers the boiler. This means the boiler pump isn’t pushing against a closed valve, and also stops a route for the UFH to try and circulate cold water through the boiler and into the manifold. Is there a gate valve near the boiler ..? If so, you could close this to simulate the zone valve being closed and then see if the UFH pulls hot water from the TS.

Looks like a standard manifold but it does make me wonder why the manifold is pulling from the TS if it’s next to the manifold or is that not what is to the left ..?

@joeirish Yes ... I think ..! You need a zone valve in the flow from the boiler that is only energised when the boiler is firing. Done correctly, the boiler trigger should switch the zone valve on, and the micro switch on the valve should then trigger the boiler. This would mean that the UFH would draw from the TS first, and then the TS stat would trigger the boiler valve, which would trigger the boiler. I would put this as reasonably close to the boiler as possible, and put it in the flow pipe. This means that cabling changes are reduced. Two questions though : - does the TS have a stat on it and how high up..? - does the UFH manifold have a blender and pump..? Both answers will help confirm the options.

Why not use oak sleepers ..?? You’ll get 3 out of a 2.7m sleeper, slot cut the edges so the tread slides over the steel supports and you’ve got tread and riser in one ..??

Makes more sense now - it’s the CC exemption that is giving him the benefit.