PeterW

Depends on definition .... I have purchased both prints and originals and it’s fair to say a lot in that range will appreciate in value. Around 4 years ago I got offered a Lowry original, 6x4” pencil sketch, for £18,000........ I declines, despite it being available on 36 months interest free etc ... 18 months later it resold for £28,500...... same with Christian Hoook, originals were £2-3k and then he won Sky Portrait artist of the year and some of those original works are now worth upwards of £35k. You either buy art for investment or pleasure, never both ..!! I’d never buy from a glazing showroom either ... buy via a decent gallery or dealer and at least get the provenance on the pieces..!!

This usually refers to brick and block sizing - making sure that windows fit “courses” of bricks such as multiples of 75mm with modern bricks so lintels are in line with the head of the window. This then matches with 225mm block coursing internally (or external too if block and render) Widths are pretty much any standard these days - if you have soldier detail on the heads then making them work to 75mm multiples is always useful.

@nod why have you stopped using Weber..??

£2 and 5 mins... Get a couple of each of these, PTFE and a spanner and thread into your wallplate fitting and Robert is your grandmothers son in law...

Not just to hold the roof up but to meet all relevant building regulations. If you want this simple and cheap, you need to get on and start to lock in your planning from expiring, and then get it up as cheap as possible.

No you have no insulation in that plus I’m not sure you could use wood as a flammable wall cladding that close to the road without coating it but would need to check. To use timber cladding and block you would need (from the inside) plasterboard block cavity with insulation block batten cladding I recon you should stick with block and render and a cut roof, steel supporting the roof timbers, unless you want to go the full timber frame deal with a render board finish.

It’s so you don’t have to buy a specific spade bit to do them .... and I would be amazed if you could accurately drill a hole to +\-1mm anyway with a spade bit in a door ..!!!

I’ve used them as a baseline before however it sometimes has random products included where they aren’t on specs...! They are definitely done to a price.

You have PP You still need to apply for BRegs Ignore the receptionist as they are wrong ..!!

No Planning give you approval to build what it looks like on the outside Building control give you approval to build it to the correct regulations The building regulations tell you stuff such as structure, windows and doors, foundations, electrics, drainage, insulation and those things.

That doesn’t work as the concrete compresses the insulation and sticks anyway. That is the correct approach, or if it’s a new pipe then slide a length of 6” clay over the top and secure in place with some gun foam.

£30k - it’s on the other thread

Because he’s a dinosaur .... Since 2013 the Part K regs have referred to BS EN 12600

You have planning for a rendered outside wall finish, which you have permission to build. If you change it to vertical wood cladding then you will have to go back to planning for a new approval. In your example you have no insulation - where are you putting this as you have to have it...?

What is your external finish..? This will influence a lot of decisions and the price ! What do you have planning permission for, and also is it a "simple" design..?

I've seen this as a 300mm I Joist on its face as that gives the same support on the edges - does it show anything like this..? Give JJ a call as their tech support is very good

You're paying his bill..!!!! He's being lazy, get this right and you'll be in a better place at the outset

I have a series of black buckets around a job and tools get put in those... Newtons 9th law of soddery says that the tool required is in the last bucket irrespective of order checked.....

There is near £200 of materials in the top quote alone - cable is £3.80-£4/m for that armoured 10mm. You have to remember that a job of a couple of hours breaks a day, so unless he's got 2 small jobs in close proximity then it may be costing him half a day.

@RozBarge as in gable end ...? You will need some sort of barge board, what is your final finish..?? I've done this with decent external grade 12mm ply and then overclad with the final finish and this allows you to continue and then go back but they need to consider the depth of the fascia and barge when fitting the backings

No If you go with block then you need to go (inside to outside) Plasterboard Block Cavity (with Insulation) Block Render This will give you a wall of 325mm thick, there or thereabouts. Floor joists will go on the inside skin, both block skins connected by ties. Roof (if you want a full open apex) will be hung on a ridge beam / steel resting on inside skin. As @Carrerahill says, I recon £20/m for blockwork is about right so that would give you around 150sqm of block and a £3k bill for that section. TF would probably come out not dissimilar I would expect

You can but you need steel in the roof to do that as a full cut roof is needed. I mean from bedroom to the study area.

Wowsers ..!!! DIY kitchens you can get a good kitchen for £4k... £9k all in for an en-suite I would want solid gold taps and hot and cold running WC flush ....... Not sure on the £20k as don’t know what it includes but that again seems steep.

Yep..! You’re into 5 bed territory here, 135sqm downstairs for a standard house is huge, give 50% to kitchen dining and even with a rectangular room you’ve got about 1.5 large shipping containers worth of space which is massive. Average developer 4 bed round here is 165sqm I would consider it in two parts - sleeping and living. If you need 4 bedrooms then a 10m square gives you 4 rooms at 4m square plus bathrooms and circulation space. That’s big. But that is a 200sqm house now, even smaller and potentially cheaper is to go to 10x8 but put a room in the attic so go to 3 floors. Not much extra on the build costs for attic trusses. You’re now at 160sqm standard plus approx 30sqm of attic space. At £1200/sqm you are at £195-220k for the basics plus then the attic conversion Other option is not to build the full footprint but to go back and create the dining / sunroom type setup later - not as cheap as you won’t get the VAT back but could reduce your costs.

Struggling to see a £50k internals bill here @Powerjen just for one end of the building. Can you share the QS estimates ..??