PeterW

They need to be toughened at that height but no requirement to have any sort of bannister. They would be better fitted with restrictors to stop them opening more than 150mm

This is exactly what I did to fit a pair of undermount stainless sinks into wooden work surfaces. Just rebated a thin slip and then used clear CT1 to bond them down.

+1 to this ..!

So if you want green then you need some nitrogen and potassium fert on it. Has the farmer got a spreader..? I would offer to pay for a couple of tonnes of general purpose NPK across it and then start mowing every week.

Use trunking and the problem goes away.

This is a simple fix. You need a pair of piers that are at least 3ft out of the ground (exceptional water height in spate) and 2 ft into the ground. That’s a 6ft post give or take. Farm supplies will have 10” gate posts of that or more in tanalised timber for about £60 Post hole machine is £35 hired. Four pack of beer is £5. Ask a mate to come and hold the other side of the hole borer for beer. Soak the bottom 4ft of pole in 2 or 3 coats of creocote. Drill hole as deep as possible, insert post and backfill with either a bag of post-mix or some ballast. Post is now installed. Do the same for the other. Drink beer. These posts really are taking the vertical loads. Triangulated with decent timber, they will support the deck and then it will become a rigid structure.

You can’t apply for exemption before permission. Council will calculate the liability as part of the application approval. You then accept liability, then complete the self build exemption form before starting any work and then when you finish you send off your completion statement and docs within the timeframe.

Run them out separately but don’t forget the further toward the manhole they go, the deeper they need to be .. don’t forget the falls ..!

7N what though ..?? Heavies.? lightweights..? Thermals..? All have different prices. 91p according to my TP account for mediums in the East Mids

The trick is to go slow and get the double handed ones - I've done 4ft deep at over 12" with a double handed borer and as long as you take it steady you will be fine. That location, you won't get a tractor based auger in, or want to as it will trash the bank.

2nd hand telegraph poles in this sort of situation tend to last decades as they are soaked in creosote... Check ebay for them - not expensive and anything under 10ft you could move with two people. Just hire a post hole machine for a day and get a 10" auger on it get them as deep as possible. Bag of postmix in each but may not even need it.

Post hole borer with a 6” auger that’s probably been taken down 2ft or more. Drop the post in and backfill

@amavadia have you had the tiles and screed tested and got a proper result from a lab..? The types of asbestos vary, and using the correct PPE you can remove some types yourself at a reasonable cost. (Usually the disposal cost) This is a much better option than leaving an issue for someone else, and also it will help you with the current problem as SLC over anything with that sort of surface will most likely not adhere properly.

Yep but this needs a 7 and an 8..!!! 15 ports for 140sqm, and looks like 8 zones.

Walk away... Those numbers are mental !! Same from Mitsubishi with a pre plumbed tank and all the toys is around£6.5k - £10k would be an MCS install. There is about £1,800 of materials there in the UFH at most. There is also a big design fail - you cannot run 2 manifolds from 1 pump in this set up, you won't get proper circulation. So for comparison - Wunda Trade 180m Kit - £1012 Control Box - £54 Actuators - £183 (Self Balancing) Thermostats - £90 So thats £1340 all in, including auto balancing valves. I don't think the comment about slab and structural integrity is correct - Its a fully floating floor slab independent of the building structure so there is no need for it to be 150mm. 100mm with rebar (or fibres) would be preferable, and tbh you need to get more insulation in there somehow. Go back to the architect...

Expanding foam... or pack it with sand and cement made from a damp mix of sand and rapid set.

So that floor construction is bare building regs... lose 50mm of RC35 and add it to the insulation layer to make it 120mm I expect the Nu-Heat quote is about £18k..?? £8k for Heat Pump and install, £3 for the tank, £5k for the UFH and £2k for the bits and pieces ..? Who’s done the heat loss calcs for the building ..??

@ninja432 be careful ..! Putting something 600mm wise between 45mm joists means you will have a problem when you try and board it as the board joints won’t land on the joists. Standard flooring panels are 2400x600 so you need to cut the insulation down to 555mm to get a joint on a board, or make sure your insulation is the same depth as the joists. If you are going with EPS/Jabfloor you can even dispense with the joists completely and just lay the chipboard on the insulation directly if you put a DPM down.

Only the minimum possible. You wouldn’t want to bury the uprights as it would compromise the concrete strength and thickness and you’d end up with lots of disconnected core segments. Whats the issue with doing it properly and using a wall plate and then cladding the outside of the stub walls ..? Would be easier and less to go wrong.

Anyone want a fairly good site table saw, Rutlands have theirs down from £99 to 68 for the next day. https://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+power-tools-machinery-bench-saws-table-saw-with-extension-table-and-stand-rutlands+xt2300 I’ve got one and it’s good enough for rip work and working stuff up to 3” thick.

You could use a steel or cast fire back - they would look pretty good and easy to procure. They need a 25mm stand off to stop the plaster scorching.

So get them to do a more complex inbound stub that supports the rafter and only buries the joist end in the ICF. It would probably mean the bottom chord is a composite or metal web with a block in it to transfer loads but should be doable.

15m/Hr is a lot more than you actually need, as you can do some very quick and dirty calculations on flow rate of circulation pumps and also the thermal losses from the pipes. If you have a 50m loop of 22mm pipe, then thats 15 litres of water. Assuming bare minimum insulation and a starting temperature of 47c, this will cool to around 39c over 45 mins in ambient (19c) air space. That loss is negligible and tbh is offset by the massive saving in running the pump for the remaining time anyway. You can get away with 2min/hour for that sort of pipe volume however it does mean finding a custom timer and these are normally DIN rail, need enclosures and are £75-100 by the time you've installed vs a £15 timeclock that can be replaced easily from any DIY shed. I'd caution against any "off switch" for the house, as you'll forget and end up not turning it back on...

4:1 will be fine - just fill it slightly recessed so the mortar for the edgings has something to key into

That is correct. It ensures that both the quality standard is adhered to, and roofers can be assured that there is a minimum standard for safety purposes. For cladding, you need a tanalised batten to ensure longevity, but they don't have to be graded so you may be able to find them cheaper as pure non-graded stock but would expect you are talking the difference between 45p/m and 42p/m which in the scheme of things is irrelevant. Assuming you are installing these vertically, you will also need an insect mesh at the bottom to stop anything such as wasps using the space for nesting.