PeterW

@Temp I’m tempted to go the Marlin route with an A2 and upgrade to a new nozzle and a tempered glass plate. Any reason why you’ve steered clear of Marlin..?

That’s not correct. If it is over a certain amount a retailer has to give you a VAT receipt on request.

Sorry for the bad drawing but why can’t you go the other way ..?? Could easily get to the other end of the one to the left ..??

Yep it’s fine

You render the face of the lintel, you can paint under it if you want but they don’t normally get rendered.

I wouldn’t do that with one - I would put at least 2 where the arrows are - you have 4m runs which really need to be in 50mm to be on the safe side, especially with showers etc

The only difference is a 1.5 normally has the windows set onto the walls with just the roof section in the roof plane and a good 8-900mm of wall above traditional soffit level. A dormer bungalow would normally have the full dormer set into the roof plane.

1. Drain Tap - It is so you can drain it down in cold weather. 2. 63 is fine although 110mm is better if they really want it insulated 3. 25x19 Polyethylene will do - Climaflex or Nomafoam 4. Post about a metre high and use stand offs to hold the pipe. Can always wrap the whole lot in a couple of cheap yoga / camping mats.

Just beautiful ..! So envious of your views ..!

how big are they ..? You’ll need to know the full height which could be another 10-12” on what is visible. All the big merchants will carry standard pots, they start at about £35-40 each. If you want something more ornate then a chat with WT Knowles wouldn’t go amiss .. Other option is a reclaim yard or eBay - loads on there like this

Use option 2 and insulate it well, and make sure you strap it to every joist as you go so it doesn’t move.

they are - it’s rock hard and easy to get a sharp edge on it with a router too.

You can get 38mm quadrant if you search for it but it may be a minimum quantity

Remove existing chimney structure to roofline and retain bricks where possible. Install DPC tray and weep vents and rebuild stack to minimum 400mm above ridge. Install Code 4 step side lead flashing and soakers, front flash apron, back flash gutter, finishing the lead with a patination oil. Complete stack with 2.No courses Class 2 engineering brick, re-use existing pots and flaunch. All mortar joints full filled and flush pointed with 3:1 mix with suitable frost additives.

Pipe isn’t deep enough and the gravel needs to be over the top more.

Rip some 400mm strips from a sheet of 18mm OSB and set that below your standard flooring on top of a slightly reduced PIR if you can. It will spread the load and then glue and screw your chipboard to the edge of it. It will spread the load of the wall and it won’t move and your floating floor will also stay put ...

Not unusual to find French drains lined with old roof tiles - the gaps let water through - and with unjointed clay pipes through them. The trick is to get the pipe low into the bottom of the gravel but not so low that it fills with silt. Worth washing and grading the gravel too - they work better with 20mm around the pipes and larger stuff toward the top. Other options are to use Terram around the trench - using it as a sock around the pipes is really only useful for drainage fields.

Yes... ... and NO..!! Break your costs down by stage, add 15% contingency to each, and then list them by approximate month. You cannot tie yourself to dates ..! Usual ones are - Site clearance and services - Foundations - Wallplate (inc any floors) - Watertight (so roof and windows) - First Fix - Board and plaster - Second Fix Give yourself plenty of leeway for bad weather etc

Post it to @Onoff to add to his pile of tat useful items for future projects....

Buy the HG Grout Cleaner and use that with a few cheap Poundland (other stores are available) toothbrushes and it will certainly clean things up.

Lots in stock https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/raspberry-pi-zero-w

Yep did a stepped foundation in sand, depths anywhere from 600-1700mm deep. All poured as a single pour then ground bearing slab added after.

no as they tend to just be epoxy lined steel shells with food grade EDPM bladders. It’s the other way you don’t want to do it.

4 or 6 bolts round the rim but make sure it’s definitely depressurised as the bladders can fly quite a distance ...... according to what a friend told me .. ? :cough:

going to need a photo here as can’t envisage the gaps etc to help you