PeterW

Buy one and stick a sign saying “SITE OFFICE” in big letters on the outside. Most councils don’t work after 5pm at night so they will just never know you’re using it as a home too ... Try and find one with a separate bedroom too - makes it much nicer to have space to go to away from the crap etc.

6mm toughened has a max span of 1230mm but they also recommend that you use laminated if it’s a single panel and should keep toughened to max 3sqm in any one pane.

Thanks @Jeremy Harris Sounds like a very simple PIC/Arduino sketch to manage that ..? May have a look and a play...

I use 32mm solvent weld pipe and a pair of 45 degree bends on each end. Makes it easier to thread 10mm cable through as it can be very stiff. Bring it a fair bit higher than the slab and then just cap it off both ends so it doesn’t get filled with water or concrete.

Flame burner is good for controlled vegetation clearing after you’ve used a brush cutter.

I’ve just wired a normally open relay to the MVHR and put the humidity sensor across the NC terminals and the no volt boost on the control board. Then taken the power to the relay via a switch in the kitchen for fan boost, this connects the NO terminals direct to the board. That way the kitchen switch overrides the humidity sensor Out of interest, @Jeremy Harris what do you have your humidity sensor set to ..? I’m seeing a background of 60 or so at the moment.

So the mains stopcock should really be where the MDPE joins the house pipework, doesn’t mean you can’t have two, one in the garage and one somewhere more accessible.

No point in running 3 bar on a system that is just circulating water in the UFH. Lower pressure is less stress on joints etc, and as long as it’s above 1 bar then you won’t have any problems. I use standard copper cylinders as buffers too and they only take 1.5bar before they pop the domes on the bottom - another reason to have a low PRV

So I’m interested in that - was it on the building regs drawings ..??

£300 worth of bits there ...

https://www.advancedwater.co.uk/prod-660-468-0732.html 1.5bar PRV

DriTherm 37 is the industry standard hence why it’s cheaper. 260sqm is 60 packs and I’ve just been quoted £1180 delivered plus VAT for DriTherm 37

6.5 cubic metres of sand will form a pile 3.5m wide and 2.5m or so long and roughly rectangular as it will flow off the back of the wagon. It will also get blown everywhere ..... Consider the price differential with buying bulk bags (all at the same time) and you buy yourself the ability to keep it all clean and contained. You’ll need 12 bags - even if it’s £30 a bag rather than £15 a tonne, you will save a lot of money and hassle in the long run.

Expensive .... No.1 - I’m assuming that’s Superglass and it’s horrid to work with No.2 - Earthwool is better and cheaper https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Earthwool-100mm-Dritherm-Cavity-Slab-Insulation-455-x-1200mm-4-37m2-Pack-8/ £4.19 + VAT per swim from Wickes, free delivery over £75 so it’s a no brainier. That is very expensive - list price is only £6.35 for DriTherm 37

They are much the same whatever brand. Used SnowCem and Rugby and both are fine. Make sure its supplied as plastic bags not paper bags too

yes takes a standard skim coat

You can’t screw into a galvanised steel lintel. Timber frame should be easier though if they are timber lintels.

It’s £10.80 a roll in wickes currently if you have a trade card https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-100mm-Space-Bottom-Layer-Loft-Roll-Insulation---8-3m2/p/166877

Used 650mm bars on the 900 pan drawer and they look fine.

Ok so I am pretty impressed ... takes a lot too ..! I would do something slightly different, may take a bit of effort but be worth it I think ... I would use beam and block flooring at first floor - lay it onto a flat top and then build a simple wooden form around the outside of the building with 25mm OSB. Rebar half way up and then pour a full ring beam all the way round level with the floor and then I would start again with the blocks on top. Same again when you got to the wall plate and cast a ring that holds the whole thing together. Still doesn’t solve the lintels question but I think it would be much stronger.

Looks passive slab too ..?? Are they custom lintels I wonder or cast in situ with rebar ..? I would check with them how the floors go in - this looks like a 200mm block arrangement (do they do a flat top block..?) and the joints seem to be sealed up with spray foam. And as @Jeremy Harris says, the decrement delay will be impressive ..!!

Yep and have recommended to a couple of others and also know a few on here that have gone the same route. very high quality units and doors - customer service is very good too. Wait til May and they have their annual sale ....

DIY Kitchens are my go to now as they do such a range and the quality is spot on. Howdens quality has suffered, and Wren’s sales tactics are suspect, as are their fitters as they are so variable. The quality is definitely middle of the road too - it’s a bit better than Wickes !

I meant as an expert witness ..?

Adobe Acrobat XR viewer can do this - just put a white box on the document