PeterW

FENSA would be my starting point.

The units in the original quote are ducted units - they are not on show. The cost is in the ducting and duct install that is correct - these can’t just be stuck to walls and you will need to take floors up in the rooms above and so on. @sw879 is that what you are expecting ..?

Only really works when the pipes are close to the surface as the heat in a slab is much more dissipated.

Yeh an SDS drill being used by an electrician.....

Be aware that LED doesn’t cast a light across a wide span so you won’t get the spread that you would from spots etc. could you not run a wire track down the middle of the apex / collar area and use a variety of floods / spots ..?? what is the plan with the collars..? Is it to leave them as-is or do you plan to clad them ..?

I would connect it to that stack as it will give you a decent clean flow following the WC usage ...

Expansion is fine oversize, you need a lower pressure valve so possibly want to find an alternate to the 3 bar one.

I would redo that and also get the flow from the basin and shower into the pipe as high up as possible too as otherwise it will just continue to block.

OK so that sounds like you need a big hinged door ..?? Concrete a steel post into the ground and put the other end on a wheel..? Make a frame of 100x50 RHS and fit the panel to it ..? May need some sort of way of hinging the bottom edge so you don’t get sound transferring through the gap but all doable

Looks like you have clearance - I would be re-routing that as it looks too shallow and the changes in direction will not be helping.

More likely that it is too shallow and it’s a convoluted route slowing it down. Why can’t it go directly across the ceiling ..?

search for lead came which is the proper term https://tempsfordstainedglass.co.uk/38-stillemans-h-section-half-round-lead-came-1

Cost ... and it’s not got a BBA cert for standard blocks from memory. It also courses really badly with bricks so you end up using driven wall ties rather than standard ties.

Horrible things unless you’ve got an overheated leaky house ... they need to get heat from “somewhere” and that’s the room they are in - they can’t get enough without a decent high volume air flow so take ages to reheat. I’d never fit one.

Yes if it’s stranded wire twisted together but they do the lever ones in 2 3 4 5 so very little point in scrimping.

@Caroline E have you fully ruled out reinstating the existing leach field ..? It may be much quicker and cheaper in the long run and is less complex as you already have easements etc in place. You say it’s waterlogged but at what level ..? Is this due to groundwater it is it due to a failure in the septic system ..? You could rebuild the existing leach field with a decent granular backfill around the pipework and find It works fine - just go between the current outflow pipes and leave the old ones in situ.

10m is fine - don’t panic ..!! You can get 3-5Gbps over that sort of distance, it’s only when you get to 100m you will start to have impedance issues.

one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/freud-shank-top-bearing-flush-trim-router-bit-19-x-25-4mm/2985r

You can change that - who wired it up ..?

I spoke to the guys when I was looking at them for someone and they seemed pretty switched on and provided everything I needed at the time for the installation such as instructions even before making a purchase.

Decent wet tile cutter such as a Rubi bench that will take your biggest tile at 45 degrees. Set it up in the garden under a gazebo, hose nearby so you can clean it down daily, and change the water in the tank regularly.

sorry !! O8 is compressor warm up - does it change after a while ..??? @DeeJunFan can you take a photo of the board when it calls for heat ..? There are also some items about using Meggers on the boards - check the info carefully in the document I’ve sent you.

If this is an Ecolane then it’s a Mitsubishi AX-09 under the covers. U8 is abnormality in the main fan unit so check it’s not jammed. Error codes are as follows : Send me a PM with your email on and I’ll forward you the service manual for it.

Depends what it includes ..?? Is that reclaimed materials, all scaffold etc..?? A good company will warranty their work but a guarantee is something different especially with an old building.

errr ... none..?? I’ve not seen anyone guarantee a chimney rebuild as there are too many unknown factors. Are you having the pots capped or open with cowls..? I would ask them to rebuild with lead trays and weeps where required - other than that you are asking for someone to ensure it is structurally sound.