PeterW

That is a frameless triple glazed unit you have ordered so to get the guarantee you’re going to have to follow the MIs which is timber frame to set the glass into. You will have to ask them if foam is acceptable and also how will you bond your roof covering up the sides of the up stand with foam ..??

I’m not sure I agree with that statement ..? Ask the builder where in the regs it says you have to have a 75mm upstand as I can’t think where it is. Also, it indicates that you have a drainage issue, not a roofing issue. 30mm is very deep - if you have 30mm of standing water on a flat roof then the falls are incorrect. That needs resolving first, and I would be looking to fix that if the membrane has got to come off. How big is the roof and which way does it slope to lose the water ..?

Are they rotten or have they just got wet and discoloured ..??? Can you dig bits out with a screwdriver ..?? You could always cut the ends off so they end where the wall is, and then run a pair of new ones lengthways along the edges when you can get a couple or even use floor boards and make sure they are treated with preservative when you do the rest of the building. Looking very good though !

If you haven’t already bought it, avoid that ACV like the plague as they are a nightmare to plumb in and really don’t work that well. Depending on air tightness and uValues you could go UVC but for 3 en-suites it will need to be 400 litres. Alternative is a thermal store that will also take your excess PV but both need good water pressure. Option on the UVC would be fit a small buffer tank too to keep the boiler condensing and not short cycling.

MIs is the Manufacturers Instructions. How far from the tank to the ASHP..? TBH if it is only 5kw then 22mm should be fine anyway.

Ok so see the big nut just above the knackered zone valve ..?? Undo that, and remove that you will allow the rest of the pipework to move - the isolator should release then.

22 to the UVC. 22 from UVC to manifold. 15mm to shower / bath from manifold. 10mm elsewhere. 22 or 28 for the ASHP depending on MIs

You’ve fair cracked on with that and it looks good !

Why the oversize rads if you’ve gone for a gas boiler ..? Standard size will be fine, blending for UFH temps (35c or so) should be done by the manifold. Don’t be tempted to run the rads off the UFH manifold ..! Oversizing is normally done when you want to use ASHP. In terms of your hot water, I would not bother with a combi as even a 35Kw will struggle with a pair of showers running - consider a 500 litre UVC, gives you the option to run it hard before the first showers but the tank will stay hot enough to keep you going through the day (with potentially a mid morning boost) Other option is a thermal store as it will allow you to run everything off one tank with just a heat only boiler but that will put more heat into the building 24x7x365. Upside is that if you have Solar PV you can dump to it year round and not care about it being 85-90c as it is just more heat held.

Not required as it is built under a sealed surface.

I would be inclined to use copper compression everywhere - you will be able to modify it easier and unless you’re sure on push fit, the Tectite copper fittings are once only unless you buy the expensive ones. For your pressure gauge you need a 1/4BSPT hexagon bush, threaded into a 22/22/1/2 female tee A decent thread sealant is always good, and spanners that fit along with a nice set of pipe pliers to hold the fittings straight. I’d assume the plastic female stuff is 3/4 BSP - be careful not to strip it with brass fittings and always try and find an adapter with a flat face or shoulder when going into plastic and check the depth of threads too.

Ok crack on then.

Ego and Echo are both good - would love a decent 20” Echo hedge trimmer..!!

That is an 82p isolator valve - just undo the nuts and replace with a lever valve of the same size. The nuts and olives can stay in place, good squidge of LS-X for ultimate bodginess and you will be fine. I would leave the zone valve in place and wedge it partially open - no point in changing it unless you need to, otherwise it would be a 22mm lever valve for me and a 28/22mm compression reducer and a short length of 22mm copper pipe.

I would fit the frame to the 3x2 and then cut and fit the floor boards to the internal dimensions when it’s done. Just mark the joists and screw them down. If the front needs anything you can just pack it with a spare board.

Just check the 6mm board has 60 minute fire resistance - easy to cut a slightly smaller piece and drop on top with a couple of blobs of no nails or foam to keep it in place to give a bit of rigidity too if you’re back filling this with Vermiculite.

Huge range from Makita - I will find the full range list but there are multiple options for pole saws including the multi tool systems. This is a decent image - you can even get a coffee machine ..!!

I stick with Makita LXT as it has the widest range of tools tbh and the technology is pretty well proven. You can also buy other tools (a few of us have the heavy duty impact driver - £25 search Fakita) and they are ok. Not gone down the clone batteries yet but will do soon FFX have good offers on Makita and you can also pick up on eBay if you shop about. The other good thing is they don’t change the fittings / batteries frequently and you’re unlikely to get obsolete tools. I did look at Milwaukee but couldn’t justify the difference in price for a standard set (£700 vs £1100) of tools so I’ve stayed blue. Mate has Dewalt Flex and is saying they are heavy for all day use and he’s not been as impressed with the life on the units - he’s a joiner and uses them every day and has found the jigsaws not to be that robust.

Is there a 3x2 down the middle ..?? I think if you put the OSB over it and screw down from the middle toward the edges it may pull it a bit flatter, otherwise a hammer onto a piece of wood will squash the worst bits.

That is expensive for a glassfibre box - by the time you add in coils etc you will add £3-400 to the price and you'd get limited stratification in a tank that size.

My impact driver is good but I only use genuine Makita batteries - that may change shortly as I've ordered a chainsaw that needs 2 batteries

Siniat do a cement board - easier to sit it in the mortar joint as they build the fireplace up

Angle the turbos and use a ratchet. Threaded bar will be a bigger issue for you

Yes these will do fine - pilot drill the frame, then into the OSB, 3x2, etc.

Needs screwing or bolting down with BFO coach screws and washers ..!!