Andyoxon

Just read this whole post and there’s no ending what happened when the electrician turned up? I know this was a couple of years ago

Thanks will look into it the area is around 65square metres

Thanks for the replies all helpful, yes I know the areo gel is very expensive that’s why I was only looking at the thin stuff 10mm connected to batterns which I thought would produce a cold barrier from the surface of the concrete ceiling then I could attach an additional thin layer 25mm possibly 50mm of celotex. Condensation is apparently a big problem with a concrete cold roofs we haven’t had a problem with this as we have owned the property for 13 years and at present the only thing on the underside of the concrete is a thin battery and foil backed plaster no insulation at all, but as we are doing extensive renovations and extensions I wanted to do the best job possible without spending rediculous amounts. If I use spray foam I will still need to put up some battens to attach the plasterboard to what is the best way to attach these to a solid concrete roof to avoid cold bridging?

I also have a cold concrete roof that I can not insulate on top of due to a neighbours adjoining property having a window at my roof level. So I’m trying to work out the best way to insulate from inside without loosing too much head room. I wondered if spray foam was an option or perhaps using Aerogel insulation attached to timber battens https://enviroform-insulation.com/product/envirostud/ Building control haven’t been much help as best practice is to insulate from the outside which isn’t possible so I’m seeing if I can achieve good insulation levels with too much thickness, I know traditionally you need a vented void but I would like to avoid this as it uses up head room I was hoping there is away to round this. Building control suggested a spray foam could be a good option but wasn’t used to seeing large concrete flat foot in residential buildings. any suggestions welcome. Andy

Hi what are your thoughts on just plastering internal window sills instead of using window boards, the wife doesn’t want an over hang and the gap under a couple of the windows is supper tight so no real room for a window board without cutting out the beading and plaster on the facing wall. looking forward to hearing if this is a good or bad idea cheers

Allan thanks for your input he is fussy it somethings have been a grey area with him, that is why I’m asking if I have to supply this information or if as Nod has said No which I assume he means I don’t have to. A slightly longer answer would have been clearer hopefully he can elaborate.

It’s not an extension please read what I’m asking I’ve search all over the internet for an answer and can’t find one, I know what’s required if it’s an extension, I want to know if Its exempt if it is in the original structure, just removing the walls and replacing them with glazing and the structural steels.

Hi I got a question regarding SAPS I’m planning on opening up the whole of the back of my house and putting floor to ceiling glazing in, I know if it was an extension I’d need SAPS calculation to show how I was improving the building to justify the extra glazing (a lot more). What I wanted to know is do I need to justify the extra glazing if I’m just using the existing part of the house? I am planning on doing the work under a building notice and therefore don’t have building reg drawings etc so doing the SAPS calculation is difficult without these. I am in the process of upgrading the whole house and have started to make large improvements to the insulation throughout including adding triple glazing. Building control have implied that I need a SAPS when I spoke to them on the phone but I think they were getting confused about which part of the house I’m talking about, we have put up a small extension on the other side of the house but this didn’t have a large amount of glazing, the building control officer who I previously dealt with Isn’t available at present I want to add the new work to the existing building notice. hopefully I don’t need the SAPS or if I do there is a way to do it without detailed drawings. Andy

Thanks Russell, yes it does look good

Hi Russell I’m looking at the same thing did you find a company todo a good job at a fair price?

Credit card not an option as they don’t accept that form of payment.

I was never intending to break the contrac, I wanted to know if anyone else had ammended the contract before signing it. 30 days seems fine if they come out and fix any issues in this time. Although if you look at some of the nightmare installations some people have experienced making the final payment before you are totally satisfied would be unwise obviously depends on the working of the contract you have signed, but from the responses so far recieved it looks like just paying up and hoping the company will come back an fix any issues is what you think is reasonable. I will see if anyone else has any thoughts before signing the paperwork. thanks for the reply’s so far

Hi, I am about to sign the window contact and the company At-Eco supplying Internorm wants 50% to place the order, 45% before delivery and 5% on completion which sounds fine if everything goes well, but I have read a number of people have had problems with their windows/installation is it reasonable to hold off the final payment for a period of time, 3months? To make sure there are no leaks or other issues? And if so how much would you think is a fair amount to hold back after installation the total invoice is £23000. Interested to hear your thoughts and what anyone else has done. many thanks Andy