• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

24 Neutral

About timsk

  • Rank

Personal Information

  • Location
    South Devon

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi daiking, The fence timber is only rough sawn - not planed. Planed, although much nicer, would easily have doubled the price and, if I'd gone for larger 25 x 50mm slats the price would have been over £3.00. Also, because of the quantity, my timber merchant gave me a discount. Levelling the concrete piers was a little tricky as I don't have (or have access to) a laser level and had to rely on my trusty 1.8 metre Stabila. Because of the number of piers - three rows of four, all are spaced apart less than the length of the spirit level which meant I was able to check each pier with three of its neighbours. That gave me a good Idea that I was in the right ball park. I knew that if I needed to tweak the timber frame that, if necessary, I could use spacers to make subtle height adjustments. In the end, that wasn't necessary. Your other option is to ignore the problem entirely and invest in a set of these: StrataRise MULTI-LEVEL Decking & Flooring Support Pedestal - 15 pack Tim.
  2. Hi cookolaar, Tiny compared to yours - just 5 x 3 metres. However, I believe the basic principle of using concrete blocks as piers and building a timber base frame off of those is scalable. Ali Dymock's garden room is somewhere between yours and mine in size and, if I remember rightly, he built four separate frames and then stitched them together to make one big one. I should point out that I'm just a mickey mouse DIYer and have no professional skills - so my comments are uninformed opinion and may be wide of the mark. I quite see that for a building of your size that a solid concrete base might well be the best way forward. I just saw your £6k quote and thought ouch; but your circumstances are doubtless very different to mine and you may be fine with it. Each to their own. 😉 Tim.
  3. Hi daiking, I built it: 450 battens @ 19 x 38mm x 3.6 metres (at a cost of £1.00 each inc. VAT) with 10 stainless steel screws in each, attached to 100 x 100mm uprights on 1,800 centres with two 25 x 100mm uprights in between on 600 centres. It took forever! Tim.
  4. I'm in the process of building a garden room and at the stage of having just had the electricians do the first fix last week. I excavated the site and did the base (12 concrete piers) and floor frame myself, following the method outlined by Ali Dymock (AD) on his YouTube channel. . . Garden Room Workshop There are loads of YouTube channels devoted to self build garden rooms and, although many (all?) have their merits, few go into the level of detail that AD does. I haven't yet priced the build, but the base just comprises the landscape fabric (free from my neighbour!), a dumpy bag of chippings, 24 concrete blocks, some sand and cement, 5" x 2" structural C24 timber and various fixings. If that lot exceeded £500 I'd be surprised. Here are a few pic's of the project, including one of the completed base: Garden Room Self-builder Tim.
  5. timsk

    And we are in

    A rather splendid looking Box Delta if I'm not mistaken. Oh, and the house looks splendid too! 😉 I envy you living on Skye - some of the best Pollack fishing to be had there - which you'll have time to do now the house is finished. Enjoy! Tim.
  6. Aha, I get you now - thanks for the input everyone - and apologies in advance if I've got everyone's hopes up and they are dashed either by no cut in VAT or by some other economic incentive which offers no benefit to the likes of us! Tim.
  7. Hi Temp', Sorry, I don't quite follow - better for who? We have been quoted a price of circa £7k + VAT for new windows and doors, i.e. £8,400 inc. VAT. If we wait until the chancellor lowers VAT (assuming the rumour is correct) to, say 17%, then we'll only pay a total of £8,190 and save ourselves £210. We're also on the cusp of putting in orders for Hardie Plank cladding, decking materials and corrugated roofing sheets - all of which combined could save us over £400 if we hold off buying them until the new rate is announced. Yes, I accept the point that suppliers could up their rates, but most of the stuff we''ll be buying we have ex - VAT quotes for and so, IMO, it would be pretty underhand of them not to honour them. Or am I missing something? Tim.
  8. Heads up folks . . . Just heard on the news that Rishi Sunak, Chancellor of the Exchequer, is to make a big announcement next Wednesday in a bid to stimulate the economy. The strong hint is that he's going to make a cut in the 20% VAT rate. This may not happen but, for anyone out there on the cusp of putting in a large order (as we are for new windows and sliding doors) - you might want to hold off until after he's delivered his speech. After all, there's nothing worse than paying top dollar for something only to discover you could have saved quite a few bob by waiting for a day or two! Tim.
  9. Hi Paris22, You have said repeatedly in a number of posts that you are confused and it appears from Ferdinand's post that many of us are too! As he suggests in the part I've quoted, I was indeed under the impression that you've been refused Planning Permission (PP). Perhaps you can clarify the following for all concerned so that we're we're all on the same page and not just the same thread . . . Firstly, have you received anything in writing from the local authority that indicates that PP has been refused - or would be refused - if applied for? If so, having sight of exactly what they've told you would be helpful. Secondly, can you give more detail about what your plans are. So, for example, you say in your opening post that the extension is 6m x 3.7m. Depending upon which way around this is, i.e. is the extension 6m out from the rear of the house or just 3.7m - will impact the likelihood of whether or not the scheme falls within permitted development. The latter probably would (note emphasis), while the former probably wouldn't. Other details such as whether or not you're in a conservation area or Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) would be helpful. I've asked my wife to read the thread again as she's not a forum member and not seen all the replies. Her response was emphatic; you really, really need to establish what you can build under permitted development and then come up with a scheme that conforms to that. At that point you can apply to the council for a Certificate of Lawfulness which is official confirmation that PP is not required. Once obtained, your neighbour has no input, no involvement and cannot object. Here's link - again to the Planning Portal - that covers this in detail: Lawful Development Certificates. Tim.
  10. Hi Ferdinand, Just to clarify, it would be the local authority planners who would attach the condition, so the wording would be theirs; it would have nothing to do with either Paris22 or her neighbour. It's very common for PP to be granted subject to a condition - sometimes many conditions. Apologies for not making that clear! 😉 Tim.
  11. Hi Paris22, I'll try and address what appear to be the three main points of your post (that I've numbered in the quote). . . 1. Well, as per my previous post, if you can build under permitted development - you may not need to. Don't assume that because PP has been refused that you need it. I realise that sounds completely counter intuitive - bizarre even - but it's not uncommon for applicants to be refused permission for something that doesn't require it in the first place! So, be sure to do your homework on this front. This may involve tweaking your design to fit the requirements under permitted development rights. In addition to the Planning Portal links, these links from the Royal Town Planning Institute (RTPI) may help: For a single-storey rear extension. If you have no joy there, you can get a small amount of free advice by e-mailing them: Submit a Request. 2. I suggest you keep separate the design side from the planning side, i.e. don't involve your architect with planning at all. Architects, including good ones, aren't always that hot when it comes to planning. So, either do this yourself or, if you feel completely out of your depth, find a local planning consultant to act on your behalf. The RTPI has a list of members here: Directory of Planning Consultants. Also, the council planning department will have a list of people who deal with them on a regular basis - so it's worth asking them too, as a local consultant will know the officials and the way they work - which is to your advantage. 3. My wife may be able to comment on this but would need to see the reason for refusal. Can you either upload a copy of the letter or type verbatim - word for word, comma for comma - exactly what the planners have said. Tim.
  12. Hi Paris22, I've had a quick word with my wife who's a retired town planner with 30 years experience working for local government and, latterly, as a private planning consultant. Her first suggestion is to establish what you can do without having to apply for planning permission (PP) under permitted development rights. If you can do something similar without PP, then your neighbour isn't an issue. This link to the Planning Portal will help: Permitted Development: Extensions (single storey) Part A of this link is a bit more explicit: Permitted development rights for householders Her second suggestion is that a condition could be attached to any PP granted that specifically prohibits the roof of the extension being used as a balcony/terrace. This achieves the result your neighbour is seeking without the hassle and expense of getting a covenant. If you - or subsequent owners of the property - ever want to use the roof as a terrace, you/they would have to get the condition lifted by submitting a new planning application, at which point the neighbour would be able to object. Hope that helps. Tim.
  13. Thanks SiBee. I mentioned your original post with the gabion columns and subsequent one about the rats to my wife and she was struggling to understand why rats would be attracted to them. Me too! We concluded that perhaps the gaps between the logs attracted wildlife which, in turn, caught the attention of the rats. Anyway, good to know the real explanation which allays my concerns about the rats although, as many others have commented, the baskets themselves are surprisingly expensive for what they are. Tim.
  14. Looking at the pics in your previous post SiBee, I thought the columns look great and would pinch your idea as they're an interesting feature and ideal for Clematis, Honeysuckle and other climbing plants. However, your comment about rats has put me right off - no thanks - I don't want to do anything that will encourage vermin into our garden! Tim.
  15. Old technology yes, but it works and, as I say, it's a whole lot cheaper than a laser which will probably break - or the calibration will go adrift - within a few years. Also, you can establish a level on one side of your house, go over the roof or around a wall to find the same level on the other side of the house. Try doing that with a laser level! 😉