PeterW

My preference these days is brick and block with a 150 or 200 blown bead cavity. It is quick and easy, and with adequate detailing can be airtight too. It’s also cost effective and a “known method” when it comes to finding trades.

Only issue with things such as ICF is if you are going down the brick finish route (due to planning) then they are costly and not simple to detail on windows etc and the brick skin needs another foundation plinth which can add cost and complexity.

What’s the SE design ..? Could use twisted straps onto the trusses, and also worth looking at using concrete screws to hold the wall plate onto its bed too.

I use the Cromar ones that are rebadged by a lot of the builders merchants as own brand.

Well.. that’s had 2 years to weather hasn’t it ..? So it will look different for a while as it settles but should be fine.

The small tank is the header - the large is the main water tank for the house so don’t put anything in it ..! Any inhibitor will do - Cura ones are fine and cheap

Yep - just stops the sand and cement ending up between the boards.

I would want the whole lot stripped back. I’ve seen blockwork cracking under plaster, I would suggest that the render is removed, and then the surveyor identifies all areas for repair /crack remediation. From that they can then agree all repairs and the helibars should be epoxy mortared into place and mesh overlay put in place. Then the full render with expansion gaps etc should be redone preferably with an acrylic render.

Buy it second hand - heras panels can be had for £10 each, bases the same. You can find it on Facebook market place or Gumtree, and probably sell it for the same that you buy it. Clamps are £1.50 each to buy new round here, and they always go missing.

I would be finding the cause of the cracking first as that is through bricks not mortar joints. If you really can’t match the bricks you can get them tinted afterwards to match.

TBH I would leave it a day or two, and just use a cheap polythene slip layer as a DPC to stop the sand getting churned up. If you want it yo go off quicker then just mist it with a hose.

You won’t drill flint - it will shatter. Hydraulic lime added to a standard mix will be fine - 5:1:1/2 sand cement lime.

+1 Hilti or Spit gun. Issue is that the cartridges can be difficult to obtain as there are certain places won’t sell them as these things are borderline firearms ..!! PPE is a must for anything that can put a 30mm hardened pin through 10mm steel plate ...

Just apply, pay the costs and also indicate you will be creating 2 spaces, one for an electric vehicle that requires a plug in space. How far outside the N/S circular are you ..?

Aco-drains are only good when they have somewhere to drain to - and you’ll probably find the only place to stick a soakaway is under your new drive ..! Run off into the lawn isn’t an issue - if it gets boggy you can sort that at a later date.

It is about how water splashes up and how it copes with rain running off - If they are only dry laid edgings I would do as @Declan52 said, possibly worth cutting an inch or two off the tarmac so you get a clean line and haunch then backs with concrete to stop the tarmac moving. Then back fill with gravel.

That’s quite a big hole to dig in sand ... how high is the water table ...?? And are you shoring up the sides some how ..?? Dependinf on how clean you can keep it you may be able to sell it for landfill cover - try the big landfill operators in your area. Transport will be the biggest cost whatever you do.

Any will do - it will just expand into the cavity.

Drill a couple of holes through each side and expanding foam through the holes. Better than using sealant.

Will they mix SLC ..?

Wilko Silk emulsion paint, long pile roller and he first coat at 20% added water. Will need 3 coats but will be fine for years ..!

Irrespective of what you may think will work, that building exceeds the size required for Building Regulations approval so will need to be designed in accordance with the correct regulations. In terms of it being a flat roof, you are on the design limitation (5.66m clear span) of a 47x220 joist at 400 centres so this would need to be very carefully designed. What is the use of the building afterward out of interest ..? It may make a difference to how it is built up.

From memory you can’t get a BS under felt any more suitable for new build. The breathable ones are much nicer to work with and they are cheap as chips. Nothing wrong with putting two layers on either if it will be left open for a period - just buy a cheap disposable one to go over the top of the first tacked down with a few counter battens. +1 to that - they are simple to use and not expensive. Timloc Easy Ridge system are good - they need a timber up stand in the centre of the ridge but nothing too complex.

They have spaced a few of the HMRC offices out to 2m in all directions which has meant they have reduced capacity to 15-20% of available desks. We both probably know too that civil service remote working solutions are archaic and it’s not surprising they can’t work at home. Last time I checked I’m pretty sure one department still ran Blackberry as their mobile mail solution ...

Put the gas combi in, and in the feed and return to the boiler heating put an isolator on the feed to the boiler side followed by a pair of tees on the feed and return and then run stubs and cap them off. You can then decide if you want to replace the gas boiler in the heating circuit with an ASHP in the future. Also leaves the boiler as backup for the ASHP if needed by just opening the isolator.