AlanUK

Members
  • Content Count

    46
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About AlanUK

  • Rank
    Member

Personal Information

  • About Me
    Fairly competent DIYer, new to building.
  • Location
    Worcestershire

Recent Profile Visitors

129 profile views
  1. Thanks Tony. I'll discuss it with the building regs guys.
  2. Ah ok - and would I put that under the Redwood floorboards, or above the ceiling plasterboard of the floor below?
  3. It's a detached garage, and the room above will be an office. It' won't be used to live in. Does that make a difference to the regs that I need to meet? Another silly question - Why is a vapour barrier needed? Are you talking about under the floor? The ceiling below (i;e. the garage ceiling) will be covered in fire proof plaster boards - there's no risk of moisture coming up through the floor (unless there's something I'm missing here)
  4. Good. I hope only to do it once, otherwise the room will get too narrow. Is 70mm a mandated depth of insulation? My builder said I need to put 25mm insulation boards over the bracing too. But I don't know if it's a requirement.
  5. Thanks nod. Silly question - When you say "counter baton", do you mean laying the boards out horizontally across the joists? I think I will need to do that anyways, to make up the depth of the diagonal boards that are stiffening the rafters together, so yes, that would work.
  6. Stud wall between joists I have a detached garage with room above, and I’m splitting the room into two, with a stud wall. I want to place it running midway between two joists, running parallel with them – see the picture. I will put noggins ever 400mm under the wooden floor between the pair of joists for the stud wall base to go onto. Would this be ok? For the walls and ceiling, can I just do the same, with small noggins? Also, the insulation that is to go into the roof, would it sit behind the noggins, running the full length, or would I cut up small pieces of insulation to put between the noggins? See my terrible drawing, showing a section through the room. Would the insulation run behind the smaller noggins (as shown in the black hatched option) or would it sit between noggins, as shown in the red hatched option? Thanks, Alan
  7. Yes, I forgot that I can easily hide the nails with the plasterboard etc. Sounds easier than the plug cutting approach. Thanks all. That nailing device looks pretty clever but I'll go with the tongue tite screws. Saves the hire cost.
  8. Thanks, they look ideal. I guess for the first board I'll need to put nails or screws in the other side of the board to keep it in place. Or is there something else I should do for that one?
  9. Good call - I've not heard of one of those before.
  10. No, it will be fine as the plasterboard isn't up yet. And also, as I've not fixed them down I can add more along two of the walls to reduce the thickness. Should I use screws or nails in your opinion? I like the removability of screws (to cure squeaks etc.) but clearly nails are likely to look better.
  11. An advantage of cable is that it can't be jammed. It wouldn't be difficult to jam a WiFi signal by burglars who go equipped to do so.
  12. No, it will be fine as the plasterboard isn't up yet
  13. Hi, I've bought my redwood floor boards, which are now mostly laid in the room above the garage, but aren't fixed down (I'm letting them acclimatise for a bit) . One of the walls consists of a large full size window - see the attached image. On the three sides where there are concrete blocks I've left around 20mm gap, but I don't want to do that by the pictured door, where such a gap will not look good. Is it ok to leave them cut flush as I've shown, or is there something else I should do? I don't really want to put a skirting board up there, as that wouldn't look good either. The boards will be nailed or screwed down on that base board , and so won't be able to move much. Can I leave them flush like that? Thanks,
  14. Ah, thanks. That suggests it doesn't much matter then. The boards don't have a chamfer, so both sides are the same.
  15. I notice the tongue isn't centrally placed on the board edge, but is slightly closer to one side. Does it matter which side is uppermost - the side nearest the tongue, or the one further away? Or is it a matter of just picking one and going for it?