AlanUK

So there is a gap left that is the width of the hinge, is that right?

Yes, they look posh ones. I was thinking more like this:

So, flush hinges. Why are they called that? To get the door or window sitting against the frame, a rebate in one or the other will be needed, otherwise you'll have the thickness of the hinge separating them (albeit just one thickness of metal rather than two with a regular hinge). Is there something I'm not understanding about them?

Initially its just going to be painted. I guess it's not too much of a problem there because I'll be painting after the plastering, so I'll cover up any staining. I may render or plasterboard it later.

Interesting, thanks. What about when it comes to removal, and there is plaster stuck to the tape - when the tape is removed won't it pull plaster with it, leading to a broken edge?

Hi, I'm plasterboarding my garage, and want to plaster to a wooden window surround, and to a breeze-block wall, as shown in the pictures. How do I do that without getting them all messy. Is there a special bead that is used, or masking tape, or what? Thanks.

Thanks both.

I have a detached garage with room above, that I'm partitioning into two. To maximise available space I want the smallest reasonable door size. Wickes do one at 1981mm x 686mm. Would this pass muster with Building Control? Thanks.

I have had a garage built, with an office room above, and need to insulate the roof - similar to a loft conversion I'd guess. - please see my post here: Can anyone recommend where in West Mids to get the PIR insulation from?

Hi there, I have had a garage built, with an office room above. I now have to insulate it, once the electrics are done. The Building Control guy said I need to use 125mm Kingspan/Ecotherm etc PIR, and then nothing else would be needed. My original builder said to put Kingspan in (but not as thick), and then use insulating panels under the plasterboard. I prefer the BCO aproach, as the room above is small enough, without putting additional panels in to make it even smaller. Is either option correct? Also, when putting the PIR in, do I go right down to the wooden beams that are sitting on the concrete? (see second picture below), or do I need to leave a ventilation gap anywhere? Thanks.

I've not heard of Denso tape before. It looks too thick for what I want, but I'll bear it in mind if I have need again. Good point about the gas, but in this case it's in a detached garage with no gas going to it, so not an issue.

I don't think I'll be removing it very often - I hope. I've painted the copper pipe with primer paint to reduce interaction between the copper and the mortar, but otherwise it's in a fairly tight hole.

Yes, that's a good idea. It gives me some freedom if I need to rotate the connection and so put the mounting screws in a different position too.

Thank you both. I did wonder about getting it vertical, and was planning on doing what you said Joe. Pete, do compression fittings allow the pipe to be rotated in the fitting after it's connected, or do I still have to get the tap put on first?

Here's a basic plumbing question for you. I have this outdoor tap, and pipe with a connected fitting. How do I attach the tap to the fitting without it leaking? I've tried the rubber washer on the outside of the tap thread, and the fibre washer on the inside, and it still leaks under low pressure. Should I be using PTFE tape on the thread perhaps, or am I using the wrong kind of washers? Thanks.