TheMick

They are the tiles that the house was built with.

You can just see the original sheeting on the edges of the joists. It perished and had halfs hanging down so I've started just pulling it out and removing. I'm wanting to eventually insulate and board the ceiling but wanted to do something better with the tiles first if anything could be done.

Hi everyone, I'm sick to death of all these storms. I live in an area high up so even when we are not all getting storms we often have 60-90mph winds. Always have tap dancing tiles. I've attached a pic showing the standard way they are clamped to the battens. Does anyone know a way I could make them hold more solid that would not cause an issue if any needed removed for maintenance etc at a later date? Replies appreciated. Thanks

Thanks for your responses. I was worried that perhaps plasterboard directly on and then skimmed might crack with vibration from the opening and closing of the door. I might be looking to deep into it as it's just not natural to me to not batten.

Hi everyone, I have plasterboard many a time but not come up against something like this. So above the door on a small porch which was added to the house at a later date. There is timber frame about 3" or 80mm thick as shown in photo. Does anyone know if screwing plasterboard directly onto this would cause any issue? If I batten it will bring it all proud of the door. Thanks for your help.

You hiding out Peter? ?

So I'm not waiting for the mix to go off hard and solid like a water added mix? Alot of articles on the Internet suggest sticking the backer boards down with flexible tile adhesive though. Cheers

So put this polythene dpc on top of the layed sand cement dry mix even though the backer boards are then going on top and can be a DPM? Tah

Hi Peter, I'm back again! Haha Last question I hope. How long would you wait until putting the tile backer boards on top of the dry mix? 24hours? Thanks for both yourself and Nickfromwales assistance on this.

Do you mean not running the UFH under where the desk will go? I only thought about doing this as the instructions online seem to say not to put UFH where units or freezers and the like are.

Nick and Peter how do these marmox boards perform if after you have put your floor you then want to put a weighty item on the floor surface like a wood desk etc. I only ask as I'm now thinking of using the sand and cement dry method first then after it's set putting the 10mm marmox boards down. Foil elec UFH (not where the desk will go) then laminate straight on top. That sounds like the backing board will be taking all the weight. Cheers.

It's 4.5mtrs x 2.4mtrs Worst area is 40mm so cubic meterage is 0.432 m3 but I was thinking you would half this as the space to fill is like a triangle going from 0 (level) down to 40mm. Thx

Great that's good to know for the future. I'm sort of stuck as to how to calculate how many bags of sand and cement I will need. Do you know the calculation? I get the cubic meters part but is there an online calculator to tell you how much of each total you need? Cheers

It's not going to be a regular live in house. Just something that will have the comfort of the house and if you felt like it could spend the entire night in there and sleep in the warm and dry. It's totally detached from the house about 8mtrs away.

Hi Peter. How do work out how many you would need? I can work out the cubic meters where I'm guessing you half the 40mm depth as it is essentially a triangle (to level the angled floor). But after that do you use a paving or patio calculator online? Thx