PeterW

Thin bead of expanding foam on all the joints and then foil tape over the joints and you’ve pretty much got one monolithic foil covered foam slab.

Drop the rubber flange in boiling water for 10 mins and then try. They deform easily and then you can just push them in. You can buy collars on eBay and Amazon - search 90mm pipe collar

McAlpine do a flange to fit but it needs fitting before the pipe is put on to the pan https://www.plumbers-mate-sales.co.uk/mcalpine-90mm-pan-connector-pipe-wall-flange-wc17-90---40005088-5764-p.asp

Yeh but double check the collar diameter as that pipe looks to be about 90mm..??

You can get them with rubber fins that move up the connector

Reliance ones are good as you can change the cartridges on them as they are serviceable. Others you end up binning the whole valve and invariably they are different sizes.

Have you run a level down the boards ..? Are they kicking out at the bottom ..??

Is the issue the oval hole left ..?? If so, fit the McAlpine long leg into the hole. Silicone the gap around the tile and then fit a pipe collar over the top.

That is a ventilated flue plate so that you cannot get a build up of fumes behind the wall in the enclosed space of the flue fails

Wooden Flooring is either laid as a floating floor or bonded to the concrete slab with flexible adhesive. The usual method to get floors level is use a water level to set the datum lines off another floor and then they should all join up

So I had a 500 tall cabinet delivered that should have been a 300 tall, and that was my error. They said to just return the door for credit and keep the rest and it’s been used for all sorts of trimming up etc and additional shelves. For damaged stuff they left behind the old ones on another job - I think it’s more hassle for them to take it back

@Nickfromwales can comment on how to lay the boards but I’d want it to go firm which is only a couple of days.

TS can go to 90c but make sure you have a proper mixing valve setup that can take hot at 90c into the TMV.

It’s hydrated lime ........

Noticed our skip company will take plasterboard in the skip but now say no foil backed boards or insulation backed board off cuts in skips. @Taff if you are doing this yourself why not line the room with vertical battens and infill with 25mm insulation and then tape it, allows you to easily first fix everything too. Then it’s a simple job to fit standard boards onto the battens and also allows you to do detailed air tightness at the junctions.

Ok so that’s a standard detail. Not a lot you can do to mitigate the loss

If it’s a standard build up then the steel should be sat on the inside blockwork, leaving you a face on the external blockwork to fill with “something” then render over. Do you know the steel sizes ..? If there are two (overkill at this point if the sliders are floor to ceiling and it’s a cold roof) then you should have a void between the two steels and you can basically pump this with foam. That isolates the two steels. if it is as drawn then the steel is in my opinion in the wrong place.

Yeh same stuff

Hydrated Lime is what you want - this stuff

They should be standard 1200 straps which have 100mm leg with 1100m drop.

Hydraulic lime is for lime mortars. They only have sand and lime in them usually made from lime putty. Hydrated lime which you link to is added to mortars for workability and softens the mortar slightly.

Also worth noting that different SE’s have different methods. I use one who used to design a lot of chemical engineering structures and he is well versed in having removable components for access. That means he knows the correct layout and calculation of bolt patterns and will design steels for ease of installation. Fast forward to them being installed and the BCO that comes out wants them site welded as “he doesn’t think bolts are enough”.. queue a series of questions about his technical knowledge and his insurance coverage or liability (none as LABC have no liability) and he reluctantly agreed to pass it as the SE said it was ok. In that case it is still signed off but at liability of the SE. There is a local SE to me that does a lot of timber structure designs but he lived in Canada for about 10 years and they rarely use steel. He had some real problems with BCOs not accepting some of his calculations as they were used to using standard steel sizings and couldn’t comprehend that a bit of wood was as good as a lump of steel....

Yeh they say even that isn’t 100% but better than a raw fleece

You have to wash the lanolin out of it or they will decay. Easily done with a new concrete mixer ..!!

No buck passing really. in the event of a failure, then your insurers would look at whether you had BRegs approval for the work. Once that is determined then they would look at whether it was built to design, and if the design was at fault, and then they would persue the appropriate parties insurer. If it’s a failure of a component that has been correctly designed and installed then the insurers will just pay up.