PeterW

Search CDM 2015 Regulations on the forum - it has been done to death and you’re not required to follow the full Regs as a private client. On the other hand if you are taking on a £6-900k build then I take it you’re not doing the work yourself so you may want to look at what the main contractor will be doing and see where any cross over occurs.

You are at the mercy of installers and unlikely to find an installer who doesn’t also do supply as it’s where they will make some of their mark up. If you’re replacing windows then you should either be using a FENSA registered installer or building control - I’ve seen this come back and bite people when they come to sell houses. Modern UPVC do what you want in terms of windows online - pretty good quality too.

Ok the first thing to do is work out if you can stop the water and flooding in the first place. Have you got any sort of flood defence around the property..? If you stop the water getting in in the first place you are in a better position. You can get flood covers for air bricks, or the automatic ones that @Mr Punter refers to. If you are going to fill below the floor then you need to take the existing wood floors out, fill the void with compacted hardcore, insulation and a DPM then a concrete floor. That is not cheap, and you can still get flooding as it will rise to the door level and still enter the property. You need to stop the flooding where possible first.

They come up on a couple of auction site fairly regularly and go for anywhere between £2800 and £3500 depending on size. They look ok until you realise how tall they are..!

I fancy trying to make something like an Ofuro or Japanese soaking tub but have it wood fired. Not difficult as they are basically a simple lock joint and held together by stainless bands.

I would be using a microporous varnish on them as they won’t just age they will discolour and potentially warp if they get wet.

If you’re looking at that sort of thing then have a look at Tuin https://www.tuin.co.uk

No you will have to work round them - Western Power I think insist on 600mm clearance. I’d also get a cat scanner and double check where they are - probably find water is the opposite side of the road but the farm will have a decent 63mm main spur I expect so you may be able to tap that.

SWAT Engineering is about £500 cheaper for the 8.5kW unit with the controller.

@JamesP love the Makita radio ..!! What aggregate did you use and did you have to polish or diamond grind them.? Were they cast in situ..?

@nod looks like the gas main follows the pair of LVs too ? I would go for the garage first or at least put some sort of gates up and put the meter in the back of the wall.

Looks like a pair of LVs running across the front - build the garage first and put the meters in there would be my choice.

If you need advice and a lot of lime then get in touch with Mike Wye - probably one of the best and most knowledgeable suppliers of lime products.

Upping the dead load I would go to 47x195@400 centres and doubled at the sides of the lantern assuming it is running with the joists rather than across them. That depth will also allow you to use more insulation assuming this is a cold roof.

Do you mean cement ..? And what are you actually trying to do..? Rendering or plastering ..?

Gym equipment takes up a lot of floor space - a 4x3 shed will not take much to be overcrowded with stuff.

Ok so you’re talking about ASSA profile locks - just search for those as they are common. https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/search?query=scandinavian+cylinders&fi=p Also, if you order the blank only you will struggle to fit a multipoint system to that on site - they are factory fit and need routing jigs to fit and I would not like to try without.

you need to use the Cadent site not BG as they no longer own the network. Follow the link to the new gas connection page, whack in the postcode and do the nearest property. Then select Residential House and that you own it .. then click through to the question about private land and follow the link to the mapping tool and it will bring up a map of the pipework in that area. https://cadentgas.com/services/household-customer/new-connections Or PM me the postcode ...!

not sure why you are struggling as these are pretty common units - Locks Online sell replacement cylinders for about £20

So that isn’t a good candidate for a combined ASHP/heating as they can move about 2kW into the air flow and you will have a much larger heat loss I would expect.

If it’s part of a common stack then it is different but on single stacks if you need to be careful. Also worth knowing if the Neighbours have already removed any parts of a common stack as that can cause issues too !

Ok so I would bypass the issues and bin it now. It’s average, and I only used it once (like the Everbuild version of CT1 that Howdens stock) and 2/3rd of a tube went in the bin. It’s far too sticky to be a sealant, and it doesn’t smooth well. You will need lots of wipes and Multisolve to get it to look anything like half decent. Oh... and I paid £8... If you need sealants then use Sealants Online as they are pretty much best price if you’re ordering a lot. https://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/product.php?product=GEO4321&category=000200210019

If the lot is going, take the roof stack down too otherwise they can - and do - bring the gable walls down.

Hats off to you doing a backing coat and top coat - that looks good !

He would as he sells it ... How much a tube has he taken you for ..??