PeterW

There should be a copper or steel header tank in the attic with a feed and expansion pipe on it. Will automatically top the level up as you drain off. Worth chucking a couple of bottles of inhibitor in it too.

No you will snap it or punch a hole in it.

Gigaset DECT phones have call transfer - you can put a call on hold and then call another handset. If this is more about work calls though I would go with an IP phone in the office on a SIP number and split the calls - that way all you need is an internet connection

Home use I use a compressor as it’s useful for a lot more than just tyres. Cheap one can be had for £40-50

Ouch !! So 203x203x46 shot blasted and painted is ~£35/m ex VAT. It comes in lengths up to 12m, so even using 8m lengths you’ve got a cost of around £2450 so you’ve another £2000 for connection plates ..?? I would shop around - £3k would be my target.

Got any aerial photos ..? Google maps ..?

How big is the site ..?? And where are you in the UK..? By “young” you need to define size at 1.5m above ground as below 75mm diameter it is not a tree and can be removed without notice. Above that and it is classed as a tree and has to be noted. Large trees would take no more than an hour to size and inspect - standard report etc and any hedgerows of interest and the lot should be done and wrapped up in half a day and written up so £5-700 should be easily the going rate.

Even 500mm off the ground ..?? I’d agree if it was 100mm but this seems to be a lot of air under the floor and very little chance for corrosion.

Red oxide - no need for galvanizing as they aren’t exposed to the weather. Out of interest is that a supply and fit price for the steels and how many ..?? Seems a bit pricey that’s all !!

sand is £1.80 for 25kg... you need 10 bags, that’s change of £20... Other alternative is that glass is quite heavy, so if you knew anyone with say, some walk on units, they could be used for counterbalance ..??

Welcome !!!

How much is your arb survey and how many trees does it cover ..??

Ok so it’s serviced - that is a lot of your unknowns done. Foundations and frame are your big costs and then things like insulation you can DIY. Plumbing isn’t too bad if you take your time; leave the electrics to the professionals as it’s simpler and usually quicker. Find a friendly plasterer and get a price to get the house fully skimmed - that way you can do the boarding out and they can cover up your errors ...! Doors can be as simple as £15 MDF ones that you can replace in the future, skirts and archs don’t need to be expensive and they are easy to DIY. Leave the frames and doors to someone who knows how to do them properly. In terms of design, a simple box is cheapest. Start adding curves and lots of roof details and your prices go up. The biggest thing is to get the design on paper, make all your changes to it and then that’s it - you stick to the design and build it. Where costs get out of control is when you start making changes on the fly.

Welcome yes it’s achievable but what is the construction method ..?? Timber frame..? Brick and block ..? Render..? All have a cost that will affect your budget. UPVC 3G windows are just as good as aluminum clad in the right place, but 1/3rd of the price. £5000 kitchen or £25000 kitchen ..? Big glass walls, or patio doors ..?? Everything has a price and you can do it with a lot of effort.

WTAF..??!!!! What are they parking and for how long ..???!!!

If you use Self Build Zone then go to Sennocke directly and not through a broker ..!

Thin screwdriver to depress the ring on the fitting works but my keys seem to be thinner than the one you have there.

Wickes Bathroom is really good too. Ignore some of the comments that it smells of cat wee..!! Only does that when you open a can then leave it half empty for a while somewhere warm ..!! Good shake of the can and it soon fades.

By who..? Where in the UK are you, what is the soil like in the garden and how old is the current property..??

Shouldn't need that much unless it’s a poor quality brass fitting ..?? If you’re desperate you could always make them off with a smear of LSX too. Have you used a stem elbow into the shower fitting then once you’ve converted it to a Hep2O socket ..??

That last pipework to the outlet is a bit crap and will cause air to get trapped. You can get a straight Hep2O to BSP connector, then use a couple of elbows downward.

Is your hot pipework not connected ..? Or do you mean you have it all connected but it’s not hot ..?

TBH I now use Wickes Tough and Washable and it is so much better than Dulux. Goes on well, finish is superb with a short pile Harris Pro roller and coverage is very good. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Pure-Brilliant-White---No-0-Tough+Washable-Matt-Emulsion-Paint---5L/p/121920 Compared it to Dulux Eundurance and it is much better - at £18 for 5 litres with a trade card you can’t go wrong.

Do you mean cut a standard block to 320mm and stack on top of each other ..?? If so, yes it’s fine, just use a starter clip every other course if you can get spare clips for the rail.

£62.50....