PeterW

I’ve fitted neons behind the plates on a number of LAP switch plates as they have a recess at the top that is slightly thinner and you get a red glow rather than a bright red light. More aesthetically pleasing than a red blob. You can get them now with the neon in the switch itself so only shows when on.

Are you filling as you go..? You could cut A142 mesh into strips that you could embed in the wall as you go. It only has 6mm bars so you’d be able to bury it in the joints.

Would also check how much your waterproofing system is designed to produce and look at your water table as you’re probably talking about tiny amounts. If it is large amounts as it’s a pumped membrane type system, then it should have its own double redundant pump as should any sewage system.

Try these guys https://www.eastmidlandswater.com/water-softeners

Use a 140mm naylor padstone. They are 440mm wide so with a 100mm bearing either end you have a 240mm gap that is more than enough.

Flood the basement until it’s at the level of the lip and float everything on a raft. Then pump out the water and hey presto the equipment is now at lower ground level ....

Have you submitted your building regulations application ..? Have the council accepted the application and started the plan review ..? If so, the building regulations in place at the date of acceptance are those that refer to your build irrespective of how long it takes to complete.

That’s not correct. Underground pipe is specifically designed and has different plasticisers used to above ground soil pipes which have increased UV stabiliser added which reduces flexibility. Underground pipe is manufactured to different BS/EN standards to above ground soil pipe. Above ground soil is BS4514/BS-EN1329:2000 Below ground is BS EN 1401-1:2019 or EN 13476-2 for foam core / multi core. They are not interchangeable as their BBA certificates state.

Dark cast cills will fade over time as they use concrete dyes rather than bake in the colour due to the clays when they make bricks etc. I don’t think they will look that good as they will all fade differently depending on the weathering.

So if it’s blue to fairly near then not difficult to change the last bit to MDPE assuming it’s easily dig out..?? Can you check the bit coming through the wall just isn’t dirty black alkathene..? See if it’s metallic or very cold to the touch.

Pipe coming through the wall is most likely lead. Where is the connection to the main.? And is there a meter ..? A lot of water companies replace lead pipework free of charge to the mains stopcock or meter.

Bespoke builds have much higher costs around site and prelims etc that can’t be shared. Also you find that self build spec is much higher - your average developer won’t spend more than £3k on the kitchen, similar on all the bathrooms, ensuite and cloakroom. Self builders can spend that on a single en-suite. Developers also have huge economies of scale on purchasing so you are paying 15-25% for materials. Your land cost will potentially be 30-50% higher for a single plot, so factor these costs in and you can see why a self build can soon add up to more than a spec build.

What has the engineer specified ..?

Instant hot water assuming it’s not used the same time as the shower should be fine. If it’s got less than 3 litres stored, or is vented, then it’s exempt from the regs. Can it be fitted above or below the counter - have you got space to wall mount ..? Change of £150 will do it

So the loxone one is a 3 wire which @Dan F has said is essentially a DS18S20. You can get them with 10m extensions off eBay. NTC/PTC thermistors are ok but can suffer with long cables.

loxone uses a DS18B20 sensor, Heatmiser uses an NTC thermistor. You can apparently use the AI Extension to convert to digital but given 10m DS18 sensors are as cheap as chips why would you ..??

No air getting into the system. Is this straight into an underground waste pipe ..? Flush the loo in the same room and see if it makes it better ...

12-18 weeks is about right for the decent fitters - nothing to do with Brexit..! Round here I know they are booking August and that’s what I would expect. Anyone who’s available next week would always ring alarm bells ...

£4.32 a bag .. ? Parge coat shouldn’t use much anyway tbh

@NewToAllOfThis How long has the job been estimated to take, did you get 2 or 3 estimates and was his within the boundaries of the average ..? If he said it would take 4 days and he had an hourly rate of£22/hr, you’ll end up with circa £700. If he’s taken 3 already and says he needs another 3... then I would be starting ask questions as the breaks would add up to one of those “days”... TBH £22/hr for a plumber is stealing, I struggle £35/hr for part jobs or £250/day now, and some are factoring in travel time too which isn’t unreasonable ..!

You’ll lose naff all as the heat is lost into the house anyway. Pump timers are the best idea and 1 min in 30 is more than enough if you are insulating the flow and the return loops.

like this

Yes..!! It should be sealed now with plastic sheet, tape and warning signs. You will have to use a specialist contractor to remove what they deem is required - you have no say in that. You may have to put warning signs in any remaining floor voids.

If you alternate them either side of a post then you’ll expose a planting pocket as you go up so can put stuff in them to disguise / hide / make a feature.

Unlikely as you have a contract with the contractor and the architect and there is no tripartite agreement in place so the architect is liable for nothing Yep I would agree and get independent quotes. Just because an architect recommends someone doesn’t mean they are good. On a £100-120k project I would be using a QS and main contractor on a fixed price to watertight and then subcontract the remaining in easy packages.