PeterW

Quick answer to that is to book the fitter for 2 weeks after the delivery date. It is what they advise, as do Howdens, Wickes etc to cope with that very issue. No issue with MFC - the issue is BenchMark are bottom of the range and the cabinets are only 15mm. DIY - and other decent ones - are 18mm. You need an account to buy from Howdens at anything like standard pricing - and also wait for the March/November sales.

That looks like it will come forward but I would carefully slack those screws off with an ordinary driver and not an impact as it looks like you used cheap crap screws and the heads will chew up if they aren’t done slowly. Also - you need to make sure you find a decent level and find how you can set that veritical (or aligned with the tiles ....) as a rectangular plate will show. You may want to just put one screw back in tight over the @Nickfromwales Space-O-Matic ply spacer (good idea to also drill a hole through the spacer so you don’t have it jacking up off the timber) and then put the shrouds and cover on to square it up. Then tighten up the mounting screws.

You’ll be looking at £50-60k for that power and water service connection via the road, and burying those LV lines. Unless you can get that off the price of the plot I would walk away.

Doesn’t need to be strong if it’s only a spacer as it’s in compression. I would mark round the face plate, draw 20mm in and then cut the tile away and pull the valve forward. Mucking about with those little cuts you’re more likely to crack the tile.

Can’t see the benefit of that build tbh as it’s going to cost you probably £50k and you have very little extra space. I would also be checking which way joists run - there could be some real complications. You could do some value engineering on that which would mean you could leave a lot of the walls intact. For example, that widened hallway is pointless - just put a door into the WC. Also the bathroom door swings the wrong way - a standard 762mm door will cover most of the room - you won’t be able to easily walk round it. Is there any reason you want to extend rather than just move as I doubt you will get your money back on this.

Right so it is cantilevered over the wall ..!! Less concerned now !

@nod - what are your thoughts ..? You should expect cracking at doorways anyway so surprised that’s not already happened when the UFH is switched on.

Why ...?? Where are you going to get significant differential expansion to justify it ..?

The work visa is much more stringent than previous and you need to use an approved route. If you “just” bring him in, and pay him cash, then at worst he will be deported and banned from entering the U.K. for a significant period, and you could also be fined Doing it properly is not easy or quick, and it can get very expensive. https://stepabroad.com/can-canadians-work-in-the-uk/

Just be aware for those looking at UVC for a heat pump, Telford do a 300 litre with twin immersions as a standard product for around £50 more. Single immersion Twin Immersion Telford are fully configurable to allow placement of the pipework where you require, and will also add additional pockets for around £30 each if you want more monitoring.

Thanks - I suppose the only saving then is not heating the whole tank. Still don’t get the point of the PHE - it’s moving parts where none are needed..! In terms of controller I assume the PHE pump has to plug in somehow to the Mixergy controls. I’ve seen the 300 litre tank at £1075 ex VAT but the PHE I could only find at £250 ex VAT. That’s still a lot more than £825 ex for a 300 litre Telford and there are going to need to be some substantial savings to make that back. Will be interesting to see how you get on with it.

So the standard mixergy can’t go direct from the ASHP.?.? So you need the Heat Pump version which adds pumps and controls to the DHW PHR setup which is far more complex than a 300 litre UVC with a standard Heat Pump coil. The tank is ~£1300, tank with circulation pump and PHE and controls adds around £300 as far as I can see, so you’re now £600 more than a standard UVC heat pump cylinder with no moving parts - what’s the benefit of the mixergy..?? The heat loss differentials are negligible (1.9 vs 2.32kW) so what’s the USP apart from a nice app..,?

I wouldn’t be paying for rework if he’s missed the brief by that much ....

Depends what you are looking for, and size/location/price as there is plenty up the M1 corridor within easy reach of major road and rail. I think Graven Hill is overpriced for what it is - the plots are tiny and you have no guarantees on what ends up either side of you.

it will be scaled off your plans. How were the architects plans drawn and what size was used for that - you can’t just make up a size and it cover half the roof with glazing if there are only 2 small squares on the plans.

That’s really not ideal... should track around the ceiling at 1:80, then when it reaches the far corner it drops down vertically. The other waste should go into the horizontal run not that vertical drop.

Haven’t you installed a wood burning stove that negates all that “green tech” anyway so is this clearing your conscious of that by installing something to offset that ..??

Sound insulation ..? Comfort value ..? They feel “less cold” when you stand near them

@WWilts are you referring to things such as site toilet, heras fencing, scaffolding etc .?? There should be a line in his costs marked “Prelims” and all of that goes in there. It’s paid at the point that is agreed and the only issue will be when he’s estimated a build cycle of 24 weeks and you get to week 25 - who is paying for the price overrun on hire etc (which should be in the contract) Heras is sometimes cheaper to buy than hire as you can resell it at the end if it’s looked after.

@BradBoy The designer has already picked up on this - note to the bottom right states to alter the rafter depth to hide the Beam 2 - its minimum depth on the plan, not the actual. I would install the steels and then look at the rafters - you could go with 47x195 but tbh I would go with 47x220 and allow for an insulation layer around the steel and lose the potential cold bridging. The hips are already 225mm so you may need to pack the bottoms with battens if you run everything flush to the tops.

Ply in like for like thickness is more structurally stable but you need to find 22mm T&G ply - Wisa spruceboard is TG4 but only class 1 & 2 so can’t take standing water like Egger. It is also nearly double the price of Egger, so from a cost perspective unless you can guarantee it’s in a dry build environment and you need that stability then Egger is much better.

Are all the actuators opening ..?? Sounds like some are not.

MKM - but I have an account Are you buying / pricing this off the Internet ..? You will get better prices with the whole lot from a merchant or two.

You can’t use 18mm ply unless the joists are 400mm or narrower so ensure you are comparing like with like. I’m paying £12.64 ex for 22mm Egger

Thanks - have you tried altering the white temperature setting on the valve at the far end..?? Do the rails get hot..? Do the actuators rise up on all zones..? The top rail flow valves - do they move when the actuators start ..? I’m assuming this was taken during maintenance as the isolators are closed and there is a gap in the pipework ...