PeterW

Yeh it would and just a square of 10mm copper pipe pushed in, or even just scrape off the excess and when it starts to set you could carve in the drip detail with some sort of tool. Plastering sand in tonne bags is about £40 around here and available from the Jewson/TP/MKM merchants and also from Wickes I think.

Ok so for those that want to see a pretty horrendous - but acceptable - load graph then is is from a job we did but did not use the steel in the end as it was designed without the ridge as a single steel. This is the sort of detail I get from the SE - note it’s in three sections which is the inputs, the graphs and the notes. First off, this is a beam that is 305 x 165 - no small beam. At 46kg/m it would weigh in over 350kgs. It is purely a ridge beam, so no real additional loads. What’s worth noting is the Deflection Limits. Fully loaded, it’s Span/200. That means if you want a 4.5m span that only deflects 5mm max, you need to tell your engineer you want Span/900..!! That is the bit most people get wrong or miss, as it’s a standard value unless you change it..!! Now look at the graphs. The bottom is the deflection graph - at 3.75m it would be deflecting over 15mm. Now finally look at the notes. Note the comments about assumptions made, and the deflection being within the tolerance ..!! This is a beam that is 305mm deep, with a decent profile and yet a 37.5mm deflection would have been acceptable ..?? That’s 1 1/2” in old money ... So maybe a few people need to talk to their engineers and explain their requirements and a lot of these door issues wouldn’t occur.

I cast a load of coping stones to match a Yorkstone using a mould made from kitchen cabinet offcuts. Mix is 4 parts washed plastering sand, 1 part white cement and 1/2 lime. Half filled the mould, laid in some cut up rendering mesh (glass fibre coarse mesh) and then topped up. Vibrate it with the SDS drill and left to set. all look good and tbh 1/10th of the price of York stone...!!

wisa are the only ones that make spruceply in 22mm T&G from memory. https://www.buildersmerchant.com/product/plywood-flooring-boards-tongue-groove-22mm/

I would build it with a double skin and insulate it, especially with the utility in there. Also add a small radiator.

An expensive folly and waste of money for which the TV home shows have a lot to answer for..??

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-Buffer-Tank-50litre-bought-new-never-used-fittings-included-/265121216524?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 search for buffer tanks

Just a plain 90 litre direct (ie no coil) water tank will do.

You can’t solo a standard board unless you have a lifter and someone helping you load them - they are too unwieldy and you’ll just end up snapping them. What’s the purpose of increased thickness ..? If it’s sound reduction then look at resilient bars.

Boiler should have an expansion vessel built in, if not you need one.

I’d make the unit next to the duct in the dressing room a double sided laundry basket/cupboard onto the landing so you can access dirty laundry etc without having to do the wander round the bed etc.

They are all electric however these are self balancing to a delta 7°C on flow and return. https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/quick-shop/wundatherm-quick-shop/controls-quickshop/actuator-auto-balancing/

Its expensive and crap tbh. Look at WundaTrade - all the same stuff, 1/3rd of the price. Buy the self adjusting actuators and fit and forget.

100mm is very close - how good is your insulation ..??

As I said on your other post

I prefer Douglas Fir for this sort of stuff and it doesn’t need stainless fixings. Also easier to get in long straight lengths. Will still set you back £2-2.5k each but slightly cheaper than oak. https://www.douglasfirtimber.com/queen-trusses/

Heatmiser are expensive for what they are and there are plenty on here who have had issues. You’ve got the rest pretty much sorted - don’t need zone valves

Are these structural or decorative ..? How can you only be replacing 2 to be visible ..??

OSB is a floating floor layer there so you want to glue the boards together and use T&g OSB. Sheer weight will hold it down, if you’re really worried then a couple of thin beads of expanding foam will glue it to the PIR. I’d consider laminate rather than floor boards but if you use boards then just use hidden nails to secure them to the OSB.

You’ve got to get pipes to the manifolds on each floor so it’s no more of a risk than putting loops in a wall - you can protect the pipework if needed or box it in somewhere like the back of a wardrobe. You don’t have to fit a buffer but a combi will short cycle and will not be as efficient and it will shorten its life. A buffer just has 2 or 4 connections, 2 to the boiler and 2 to the manifold, can even just add it as a tee off to the flow and return to the manifold. It has a thermostat on it and it’s just a case of that controlling the signal to the boiler to fire. Are you planning on installing this all yourself .?

So I’ve never had a BCO pull up on the board density and it’s the widest used board in new builds now so unless you’ve got the worlds worst BCO, I would put 22mm Egger Protect down and move on ..??

you will be surprised !!! They will take action and it can result in the property being removed at the householders cost by the council.

No. All planning is on its own merits.

4 years is the rule but a quick call to your local planning enforcement team will see it sorted.

It isn’t a requirement yet some LABC inspectors insist on it as they confuse it with the requirements under B and P to check the structural integrity of the roof and the electrical installation. If it’s a new build and the engineer has sized accordingly (or the panels weigh less than the tiles they replace) and the installation isn’t a retrofit then there is no requirement for MCS. Some go down the MCS required route purely to cover their ar$e as they don’t need to check anything as an MCS install does this for them ...