JFDIY

One way I'd consider to do an outside corner would be to cut them around 2" long. Put them in place, then scribe the inside with a pencil or even a knife. You them have the minimum length of the shortest part, obviously need to check it's square up the height of the skirting. The you just need to do the mitre, check the angle of the wall and go from there, last one I did I cut roughly then used a bevel gauge on a disk sander/punisher, a bit at a time, as mentioned above leaving the outer side longer than needed for a start.

This what I've got in my bathroom, but I have a thermostatic mixer set to 30 degrees C to protect the toilet cistern from seeing water that might be too hot. It works very well, by the time you've flushed the toilet adjusted your wares and started washing your hands the hot is there. I will do the same in new en suite. Considering piping the new kitchen in a similar way, with hot going to the sink then a mixer to the dishwasher, to pull hot through and also reduce electric consumption on dishwasher heating. Here's a consideration; I'd be interested to know if it's possible to run two pipes in parallel, a 10mm and say a 22mm but have a pressure differential valve that somehow allows the 10mm pipe to supply low flow requirements, then open the larger pipe if higher flow is required. Thinking en suite basin and shower. Or could you use a thermo mixer set at say 60 degrees with the 10mm to the hot side and the 22mm to the other. It would pull the 10mm through quickly.then blend the rest until full flow was available. Just thinking aloud there....

^ especially when there's a further £1200 for grubbing out foundations. If you have time demolition is the easy part. Plumbing and heating are quoted separately and amount to £12k. If using plastic pipe and fittings that could be nearly half that surely. Does it include any bathroom fittings?

That would have saved me about £300 tax last year (18/19). I just put in my actuals, and last year was good with full rent and limited expenses. This year 19/20 won't be as good, part empty and some refurb costs.

Do you claim your expenses etc. Under the property section or as self employed? Can't recall ever seeing option for claiming £1k of expenses as a flat figure.

I'm in the middle of 125m² extension, footprint is 75m² so broadly comparable. I was quoted £26k to get foundations in, brickwork built up to DPC, and sub floor slab poured. I did it myself in two months around a full time job and for less than £6k, it is not my trade but if you want something you can make it happen. Enthusiasm has wained somewhat since......

If you're going to convert the loft, I'd factor this into the MVHR design now: ensure the unit is big enough and plan the duct runs, run them in and cap the ends, then join onto them later on.

If you can get access across the fields, wait for better weather then put the static on a low loader and get a local farmer to drag it across with a tractor rather than towing it. I bet there is a local farmer has a low loader. To be honest now is the time while roads are deserted.....

Very posh. Mine consisted of plate, pop rivets and plenty of tape, should still outlast the rest of the mower mind.

Good idea, Or an extended a leg on the network, down the garden up the side of a fence post .

43. Boy =5 Shoes=10 Cones=4 Boy 5 + cones+ shoes = 19 19 X 4/2 cone =38 38+ 5 (one shoe) = 43

Extracts usually have two ducts to cope with the flow and minimise noise. You might get away with three ducts onto two plenums , depend on the room use, size and expected flow rate Could you run a larger duct past the obstruction then have a separate manifold to serve those two rooms?

Surely you hope it's never needed. Likewise when the firefighters use a fire hydrant, that is free for firefighting, so the network must accept that? Would he tempting to run the garden Tap off the sprinkler feed though.

I'd check the regs, if it's just a vent I think you can use smaller pipe, it doesn't have to be 110mm. And could you bring it up in the house but then turn 90 through an end wall to avoid going through the roof, again need to check the regs as I think it can't terminate under an eaves for example.

I've started using loctite 55 sealing rope instead of PTFE tape, all the jobs I've done, probably 20 joints or so (DIY not pro) have been leak free first time.

As long as the fall is to or from the unit you should be fine, it's when you create a U-bend that it will cause an issue. My ducts come from above the unit (similar vent-axia), the instructions don't preclude it, but I do have well shielded terminations to the outside. Looks like you're putting it in an unheated space so make sure all the ducts get well lagged to prevent condensation forming on or in them. You can use a waterless trap or at least 75mm or cover on a wet trap if memory serves.

The 75mm foil tape from Screwfix is quite good compared to most, seems to be a bit thicker. You'd need to make two passes though and they don't do 100mm in the same quality

Not much. I bought a £10 tub off eBay a couple of years back, probably done 10m of a 300x200 beam on two sides and only used a couple of table spoons worth.

Oxalic acid is surprisingly effective in cleaning and also pulling out the black marks.

Hold the nails with some long nose pliers to save your fingers at the start then use a long punch or two hammers to drive them home.

I think most of us need certifying.......

Put a noggin between the joist and turn clip sideways from current position to fix to it

No reason, as long as the pipes go downwards and air can come upwards. Why not just fit one large combined manifold to serve both floors.

Go into Travis Perkins and ask for their best price, I usually only pay around 40% of list price. Also check out JTM plumbing, I've had loads from there. Oh and you could use two 30degree bends and a short straight section and it would still be rod-able, or a swept 45 and a 15 or 30 at either endetc. Also you can get long radius 90 that is rod-able, you may have to install it than prove to your building control that rods will pass without obstruction rather than expecting them to accept it from plan, a practical approach might yield a more favourable result.

Move the main chamber where the branches collect to the right and use long radius , roddable 45 degree bends and you can loose the chamber(s) at the corner of the property as well. Bends are cheaper than chambers as well?