JFDIY

What happens with external ducting to outside, don't you end up with effectively a long U bend that can fill with water?

Not really, being limited to 30degC is only comparable to a hot summers day. You could do 25C and as long as your room isn't that hot it'll work.

I had this issue in our bathroom, mostly solved by using a thermostatic mixer on the supply to the toilet, set 30degreesC to protect it from damaging the cistern. By the time you've flushed the toilet, got yourself in order and are ready to wash your hands the hot water has been purged and not wasted drawing it off in the sink. Added bonus is there is never any condensation on outside of the toilet cistern. I will do the same on our next bathroom install.

That drawing is s bit bonkers, you aren't actually required to fit a stop tap in your property, only the drain cock, it just recommends it ( text to the right of enlarged bubble) They might argue that if it wasn't fitted there would be no chance of a leak. That said my folks had a leak in the drive on the outgoing side of the meter and the water supplier did all the rectification and waived the £1k water bill caused by the leak, because they installed the meter and made the connection which 30yrs later leaked. Personally I'd fit a stop tap outside, just in case.......

Insulate the whole space, have the step down at the doorway and consider if you could make the wall on rails so you can re-position it anywhere in the length of garage, depending on your or future owners needs.

The 150mm stuff? It's ubbink insulated duct, there are joints and support brackets which you can use as clamps.

Here's how I've done mine, semi-flexible silencer only on supply for now. I have space to do the same on extract at a later date if needs be.

So is there also insufficient air movement to the rest of the house, do you have a 10mm gap under the door?

Spread it out over a few years, get all the services in, build the first (which you don't want for yourselves), sell current house, move in, then build the second one, this way you get to maximise your capital gains along the way, potentially avoid the CIL, have best cash flow and learn from the cock-ups to build yourself the better house.

Where is the 'area' measured? If it's a floor level you could box off some strategic areas with sloping sides if needs be to reduce floor area but not available space so much. Likewise any workshop needs a bench, could it be fully built in and the area underneath inaccessible and therefore discounted from the internal area? What about splitting the two applications? Does that mean you get twice the area.

Is there a base plate on it or is it down in the mud... Jack the leg up on the lugs and recover it, 15minute job to we save 30p, that's my style....

Or put it on then twist it so the slit is at 90 degrees to the bends, stops the pipe trying to poke out.

Kinetic B plus. Looking at the installation and commissioning document though the same control board and logic should be on; Kinetic B Kinetic BH Kinetic FH Kinetic B Plus Kinetic high flow

As I've mentioned in another thread, I went for vent-axia because of the controls functions, seemed to be way ahead of most of the others yet simple. Main thing for me is looking at mvhr all started due to the cost and disruption of getting an extractor over an island hob. The vent-axia unit I chose has a cooker mode which, via switch in kitchen will turn on to 100% extract and only 30% supply, you can change these figures to whatever you like though within reason. Critical thing is it opens the summer bypass to prevent fouling of the heat exchanger. It also humidity controlled which now fitted seems brilliant, jump in the shower and senses the moisture incredibly quickly and it progressively self manages the flow rates. I've wired in boost capability to the lights in the shower, but in retrospect it wasn't needed.

There's more history and photos on Dee's other threads https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/3850-balancing-system/?tab=comments#comment-61355

Did it ever work as expected? Perhaps it is wired in wrong or the time switch is kaput, and it is just reacting to the thermostat.

I was quoted a £60 fee only last week , it wasn't clarified if that included vat or not mind.... If ring them, state the figure was higher than you expected - they seemed decent over the phone last week.

One should be careful of what one wishes for!!! Yes, it's just in the preferences; I'm still here though - as it's better than eastenders. I can't see a reason other than cost that you needed the collars lower. With more thought you could have insulated under the slab, but that's hindsight for you. I've got loads of issues on our gaff that aren't perfect, but its better to have it 50% right than 100% unbuilt, that is the only way of getting perfection in this game.

Smaller window would have meant less sag.......oh, wait hold on a moment I'm getting deja vu.

Had a bit of a play with the settings, seems you can set the inlet to any figure you like (100% If desired), but the commissioning manual states the extract must be higher than boost rate, I tried it lower and it accepted the figure without any warning on display. I don't currently have the cooker mode switch in place so couldn't try for real to see if it defaulted to boost extract by over-ruling the set-point. So yes, you could have a separate extractor unit to the mvhr and try and compensate by increasing inlet flow. It would however be cold air input to the house though as the summer bypass is opened on the cooker hood function.

So does the centre post end up in the water seal of the trap? - might be an issue. Take the twin adaptor off, If you pour a jug of water down it does it keep up with the flow? Might be better to have the S trap lower and have a buffer of air space above the trap In the vertical section.

Does it have the centre hollow post in the middle still? If this is in-place then you either have too much water flow, or a slow drain going away from it. Could there be too much water seal in the trap after it? Whatever is happening you're pressurising it with either too much inlet flow or restricted outlet. You could add on an extension to be higher but still open.

I looked around a lot on this subject, downloaded a load of suppliers info and commissioning manuals and the only company I could find who'd got their head around it was vent-axia. Depending on the unit (not all models do it), you can set up a cooker mode, the documentation suggests it needs to link to their hood, but it can be wired into a switch. When you switch cooker mode you the unit bypasses the heat exchanger to prevent fouling, and ramps up the extract to 100% and supply at 30% are default settings, but fully user configurable. I've just installed a kinetic plus B, and intend to have a couple of grease filters above hob and some valves that open to bypass any restrictors in extract ducting in the kitchen, so the extra extract is above hob and oven not around whole house.

Yes, didn't need any business info to register, just did it online. If you buy 30 they're nearer £15.

£20each or there abouts from Wundafloor if 230v