JFDIY

I would say that's about right, I've got some that are getting on for 30m, but I don't expect a lot from them. The system was primarily put in to serve the rooms best that are sited close to the unit. I think if I had a pro design it, they'd have used two smaller units, but I wanted to avoid the potential nose in the bedroom where the second unit would have had to go. It really isn't that hard, if you're using radial, double up extract pipes and double supply on long runs or to big rooms.

Think you have to be careful, because the unit may quote it can deliver say 300m3 per hour, but that's at no or low static pressure loss, once you get the ducts in the pressure loss might mean you struggle to get close to it. i.e. if you have long duct runs the furthest, it will need the system to run at a higher static pressure to overcome the frictional losses and mean the total available supply is lower due to the static pressure imparted by throttling down the vents closest to the unit. I over sized by about 25% as it's easier to throttle something back, it will run quieter and for longer by being less stressed.

Might be the time to poach someone for a while, there's nothing in the government furlough scheme that stops you working for another employer or yourself. So they could be claiming on the employed scheme and go do some self employed work, subject to the normal income tax rules.

Jeremy, Can the mini-splits be used for heating? I'm Considering forgoing upstairs heating as I don't think we'll use it, air con would be nice, and great if could be used as back-up heating. All that said my build is nowhere n at passive house, but better than a traditional build.

Radial is lots of small flexible pipes distributed off a common manifold. Branch is typically a large run through the building with small branches to the rooms. Radial takes up more space (at the manifold in particular) but gets rid of the potential 'cross-talk' of noise from one room to another. Radial is more DIY friendly in my opinion.

Before I got to the end of your second line of your post I was going to say 3ph with inverter VFD, saves swapping belts over for one thing.

To be fair it is Easter sunday and if you plan to live there; these are your future neighbours. On the flip side if it's not in your planning conditions then who's to stop you. I bet there's a lot of folk sat at home got used to quiet times etc..

You need to befriend your local farmers, bet they'll sell you a few gallons.

Found another document, this is just for swapping orientation. Another though, is just spin the unit and fit a remote control panel. These have a 15m cable I think so can be placed somewhere convenient to everyday use. vent axia swapping orientation.pdf

@OllyH you have the model number off the case? You need the installation and commissioning doc for the bit on swapping the unit from LH to RH and vice versa. This might cover it, title is misleading as it's what I saved it as to my computer, covers many models : kinetic plus B I&C.pdf

It is possible to reverse the configuration of most of the vent axis units, in essence you spin it 180 degrees in plan view and swap the front and back covers. Depends if this corrects it fully or if it is easier to swap the ducting around? Looking at the diagram again I think this would correct it.

I noted that and asked my brother who has lived there for 20 years or so, it's apparently to reduce the use of narcotics, seems just plain weird to me.

Is acceptable to disconnect one for a couple of days, you might be able to pin point which one is at fault, then change it or look for possible causes easier.

Is there a height restriction (minimum) as well, could you build a new wall inside the existing downstairs and then cantilever the upper part of the house to save on disruption to existing house.

I've got some props here that'll do it, RSJs with lorry trailer 'landing legs' on top, good for about 20T each, let me know if you want them. Been in the nettles four years and can't see me doing much with them any time soon. I made them to hold up an oak frame barn so I could dismantle it safely.

Been using this today, pretty pleased with it for scaffolding use, the limited stop function on undoing is just right so you can undo a clamp without winding the nut into the crimped section and locking up. My brother in law had it for a week in the car garage, he used it for a bit and refined it'll undo a bolt that was freshly tightened to 150lb.ft. For the money, I'd be happy just using it for occasional scaffolding. Hoping the one I bought direct from China eventually turns up, but it was only a £10 gamble.

I've found it takes up lots less space when fitted onto/into the car, makes the car more usable too ?

MVHR won't help cool very much. You need air con for that. It has been suggested that an air con chiller coil on the MVHR supply side ducting might work, but might cause condensation drop out issues in the ducting when in use.

And the error is half the shim thickness, so if it's a 1mm shim, 0.5mm/m. Which I'd say is very good for s general purpose level

Think it's for where the vertical leg might move relative to the drain run in the ground, so a tall stack subject to thermal movement, or as you say ground likely to move settle. However if the vertical pipe is not secure or it is bottomed out in the joint to start with then it could well be a wasted excercise

I used their ducting/manifolds etc. Set up a trade account online and they're nearly half the cost of most others.

I paid £1.5k or thereabout for the unit, then about £2k on ducting/manifolds/plenums. Self designed and installed. Up and running but only 1/3 of house actively being conditioned (other outlets plugged for the moment). I've said it many times on here my choice of unit (vent-axia) was because I want to use it as kitchen extractor over an island hob so saved the expense of downdraft set-up. The unit I have allows a cooker mode with upto 100% speed on extract and bypass the heat exchanger to prevent fouling.

But a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush. (Not sure I've said that to the right person.......might get misconstrued )

It was suggested to me to clean the oak after plastering to help get rid of any plaster dust etc. If already clean I'd mask them well, wet plaster seems to leave a chemical burn onto oak which is very hard to get out.

If you look through the building regs for buildings other than dwellings, it suggests that a flight of stairs over a certain number of rises must be broken by a landing. A half landing should still count as it is at least as wide as the stairs. So in my opinion it's two separate flights. I bet you won't notice the 10mm underfoot and they won't check it. Unless you've committed cash already why can't the stairs be made at say 165mm throughout for the first floor? I wouldn't worry that it'll be different to the other floors.