joe90

At least hedges don’t blow over or rot. Timber posts on the ground WILL rot eventually (10 years?), I would go concrete spurs with timber bolted to them every time.

A subject that some people forget is mains sewerage connection or a plot suitable fir a treatment plant which can scupper the best of plans!

It’s never easy but looking good.

I think that’s “their” wall not yours (judging by the fence line).

It looks like a cavity wall and that plastic has tears in it so the cavity will get wet!!!.

Wot a bodge, I was going to say fix a large facia board over that crap at the top but they have plastic sloping your way so “their” water will run down your wall!!!!

It shouldn’t do as it fits the sides and bottom of the ridge and hip timbers, not the top!.

Breathable membrane is more than airtight enough IMO. Just wrapped around each end then flattened onto wall. As I said before, if I did this again I would use built in hangers like a friend did.

Yes it was a faff, I used roofing membrane, no tape, tacked to the blockwork and render over. I sometimes wish I had bolted a wall plate (with slurry mix behind) to the external walls at joist ends and hung the joists from that, less faff and work and only needed on the walls at ends of joists, not internal or side walls . Resin threaded rod into block work will also make it airtight. Yet another method would be using built in joist hangers that hang on the blockwork if the blockwork joint is at the right level.

Perhaps it’s the weight he’s worried about?

No, they are for the ridge. No We did this on my hip roof just using 4x2 across the corner, good detail but think epoxy glue etc may be overkill just annular ring shank nails into the wall plate ?

Well , it’s not as if you have much else to do,,,,,,??????

As long as you don’t go to St Philips Marsh, only went there once, crap service and not interested, i still recommend Avonmouth .

Tell her the clue is in the word “self”.?‍♂️

Are you going to Howdens in Avonmouth?, I used to have an account there and the manager was really good, got him to donate a kitchen once to a school that I was governer at. Always haggle the price, they will price match.

Always a good idea. As long as you have somewhere to drain it too.

Welcome. Loads of good info here, remember there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking ?we like questions and pictures.

I designed my own, no double pipes, can only be just heard on boost which is very rare, made my own manifold and silencer from ply and made my own terminals from cheap stuff (that cannot be seen).

reminds me of a job I did, set plunge saw to thickness of floorboards, cut, flood. Bloody plumber had recessed a 22mm copper pipe 18mm into the joist and chiselled the back of the floorboard to go over it.?. Customer was very good and realised I could not have known, she claimed on her house insurance . So beware!!!

When you get the sub soil levelled it might be worth getting some land drains put in before putting the top soil back. I was advised a shallow trench filled with drainage stone and a membrane over the top before replacing the top soil.

It depends on you soil makeup, mine is thin soil over solid yellow clay so nowhere for the water to go but evaporate. Getting machines on already wet ground is not a good idea although a tracked machine will make less mess that a JCB like I have.

I bought a paslode first fix second hand and it’s been invaluable and I recon I could get most of my money back if I sold it (but loathed to). But a decent hammer and ring shank nails won’t take you that long to do. Seriously, good hammers are worth their weight, cheap ones are hard work.

Well done @SteamyTea, I think before posidrive was invented all slotted screws were like that, plain shank (I hate using slotted screws now unless it’s antique furniture as posi etc is so much easier to use with dril drivers, can’t remember the last time I put a wood screw in with a screwdriver!).

I did the same ?, if you get plaster/cement in wood grain it’s almost impossible to remove.

back to the original question!, did you find any?, if not perhaps drill a clearance hole so the fully threaded ones pull the bits tight (it’s what I do).