joe90

I agree with @Russell griffiths above, best see if you can bung some CT1 in the gap. If it falls away behind the board, I used to squirt some foam in there. When dry scrape away the foam but leaving some at the back to support your CT1.

Oh do tell more, what do you have?, what work is required.?

Yes, as said above it needs cutting down by the amount of gap you have, I still worry about a push fit (presumably why there is 2 o rings. )? is there a grub screw to hold it on?

Is that shower head a push fit?, seems strange it’s not fixed to the wall/pipe?

Not necessarily, mine does not, I still get 48’ DHW and same to use in my buffer tank blended down for the UFH!!! it may have defrosted a few times when the dew point is reached, but that is more about RH rather than temp.

OH YES, I managed to get the plot roughly flat and made the mistake of getting it power harrowed (big tractor with huge rotovator) which did a good job but the rain that followed turned most of it into a paddy field. I have been told by a local gardener/landscaper not to go near it till the middle of next summer when it “should” have dried out. It can then be rolled.

Definitely NO, then again I retired a little early to enable me to (help) with my self build. I am happy being retired and playing with my tractor, cutting hedges, gardening etc etc?

Nah, Centigrade, toasty !

Nope, frankly I don’t understand, but then again it’s in good Nick and the door seals are in good condition.

Only problem with ptfe IMO is getting it tight and facing the right way ?gas PTFE tape is better as it’s thicker and less round and round .

join the club!! . @SteamyTea will be along in a mo with a bar chart/graph to show what your savings will be! And your pay back time. I worked on the assumption that even if I have to use electric heaters for the few weeks a year to keep warm when it’s really cold (like now) it’s worth it. I ain’t going to live long enough for some pay backs ?. saying that, I am sat in my solar heater (south facing conservatory), temp up to 27’, bifolds into the house open so heating the house for free ?

Extra insulation works on diminishing returns, the first inch makes a big difference but the more you have you receive less benefit per inch.

I agree, I don’t know exactly what my U value is but I built with large cavities, double glazing (that’s engineered to nearly triple U value) lots of under slab insulation and roof insulation. Great attention to airtightness and details such as doors and orientation. All I know is my heating is only on for a couple of months a year. I do have a woodburner which some say is against “passive” but we love it.

Even @Jeremy Harris found this out the hard way, he lives in a warm micro climate and ended up needing more cooling than heating (at least this could be done with his PV).

Sorry to hear of your grief, let’s hope you get a good resolution (like you did with the ASHP ?).

1) the fittings are more expensive but you need far less of the 2) yes in addition, I ran 10mm hot feeds to basins to cut the cold slug and give hot water faster.

I was recommended hep20 by our tame in house plumber on this forum ( @Nickfromwales) who has been using it for years and rates it higher than other makes. The golden rule though is to make sure the pipe, where it enters a joint, is not scratched as this could lead to a small leakage past the “o” ring. It also enables you to pull the pipe in like cable and only have joints at each end, no joints in places that cannot be accessible. Some people don’t realise how restrictive 90’ bends can be when using copper. Also hep20 uses thin stainless pipe inserts, not thick plastic ones like other manufacturers which restrict flow. All plumbing should be tested before covering up, I have seen soldered copper joints hold water initially but fail afterwards.

Not yet, too bloody cold to do anything but I have passed on the message (I will pop up on his roof and have a look fir myself).

if your build is air tight, it should also be vermin proof?

I have come across leaking old copper pipes in the past, so nothing lasts forever. It was our own welsh wizard who converted me to hep20, he’s been using it for many years and swears by it.

+1, I was a late convert but my new build is all hep20, no joins, all single runs with no restrictive 90’ bends, hot and cold manifold, dead easy. A no brainier IMO.

I bought a 3cx for £7k a few years ago, a bit of a nail but still working. Yes they are bullet proof, look out for rams leaking, they can be repaired but the main back actor one requires a crane to lift it off which can be expensive. Mine has been invaluable BUT, they weigh over 8 tons and will carve up the ground if it is at all soft, mine has been buried a few times.

oh no, with my build the p5 was laid when the walls were up to that level and they worked through the winter off that floor building the next story. At times in heavy rain the water was standing on it and pouring down the stairwell. Frankly I was amazed when 6 months later, after the plasterers had finished, I pulled up the plastic coating to find prestine chipboard flooring even taking the plaster stains with it.

That may be true, but your going to be paying for the same amount (if not more) to heat the underfloor void which will be colder so more losses. Recently a mate of mine bought a bungalow and the whole floor area was riddled with woodworm, we ripped the lot up, levelled the joists and replaced those too far gone, installed 100mm insulation between joists and new chipboard flooring. Sorts your sloping floor, insulates and saves you money for all those years that you are going to live there. You only buy insulation once, fuel, you keep paying for!

You don’t need planning permission for dormers on the rear or side of a house, as you say it’s restricted to volume. If you want to do the same then why not, you just need building regs.