joe90

You can’t rush these things (and he sure doesn’t ?).

+1, I put basic white stuff everywhere (cheap as chips) and will change out as and when the house “matures”, same with lights, cheap pendants everywhere, slowly getting changed as we “live” in the house (but it is very “cottage”). Also (with the backing of a friend who is into building houses) I painted everything magnolia, very “cottage “ and will change as and when .

Local farmer with one of these? Will take 30min.

Funny but when I bought a shipping container for tools and building stuff I always had plans to insulate the roof but never required it, not a drop of condensation, could not believe it, no idea why?

Dont be, that’s what the forum is for. Being a bit OCD, I asked the bricklayer to make my windows openings to a whole brick or half brick as I hate slivers of bricks, the wooden windows were hand made to fit the openings. To show off the windows and ease fitting, also to put the windows in the insulation layer check reveals work well IMO. I cut the blocks inner skin at an angle, fitted angle timbers to window sides and fitted plasterboard screwed to these timbers and plasterboard adhesive to the blocks. The window was foamed to the brickwork before topping up the insulation and fitting sides etc.

Just come on again, (SWMBO left the front door open after walking the dog ?).

After it went off yesterday afternoon, it’s not run again, house warm enough.

I had a 200mm cavity but brick outer skin, I also had “check” reveals. This means the inner skin has a bigger width than the outer skin and the windows and doors are fitted to the inside of the outside wall. Mine was held in place by stainless brackets and expanding foam strip between the window and outer skin. (I also had angled reveals giving better light into the rooms and looked cottagey.)

I did a very rough “thermal bridge” calculation on cavity ties and found it to be minimal.

I used dritherm 32, it is certified fir full fill and it can be installed DIY, I followed the bricklayers round installing it, just need to keep heavy rain out.

What lintels?. I built 200mm cavity with 100mm block and brick inner and outer skins, had to go 500mm strip founds for the ground conditions (said building inspector) and had concrete internal lintels and brick arches in the outer, but these could have been. Concrete or something similar!!!

As long as any smells etc can vent and also no vacuum can be created it will work.

Been on fir 4 hours and no sign of defrosting ?, house up to 22’ so it’s off now, bring on the beast from the east No2 ?.

It was my approach (cus there’s no way I could build or programme something complicated ?‍♂️) and it works very well, the only problem I have is the hysterisis is too great (3’) so I need to replace it with one that’s 1’. actually I have an electric storage radiator, lecky drives the ASHP which heats the slab which slowly releases it to the house ?.

Will keep an eye on it and post results.

As @SteamyTea said above it’s cheaper to use heated water at a decent COP than an element at 1to defrost the unit. They forecast very cold weather today/tonight so I am turning the room stat up a little, whilst the sun is shining on the ASHP (to stop any icing ) and get a little heat into the slab which will last many hours.

Thats what I said, keep up (but I meant something different ?)

Correct. (My missus is one ).

Would be better (IMO).

If the tiles are not supported and being stood on. How deep is that “hole“.

8 mm is not massive, I have a 12mm step (but “up” to the door) and it’s hardly noticeable. I still wonder how you will fill that gap and not snap your tiles off?..

Ah, the pic appears to show a deep hole the depth of the screed???

How are you going to fill that gap between screed and door frame?

ha, you’re not the only one, I misread some instructions and blew up my main PCB but managed to get a replacement thanks to someone on this thread finding a supplier in the EU.?

Plural !