joe90

We both got a kingspan lossnay unit after Kingspan pulled out of supplying them.

I agree with the above, I did similar, nothing flash, but loads of insulation and airtightness. Windows made locally and double glazed but very near triple value. You can upgrade all the “bolt ons” afterwards but you can’t add more wall and underfloor insulation afterwards. Loads of knowledge here and we don’t mind how many questions you ask!!! (Unless your names zoot ?).

When I did engineering in college (back in the dark ages?) we were always taught bolts had a plain section which fitted the thickness of the materials held together and screws were threaded all the way. The difference is bolts had a bigger diameter plain section than the thread to be a snug fit in the material, wood screws with a plain section is a smaller diameter than the thread.

That’s not bad, what’s the underside like?

Full thread v. partial thread wood screws. this is the original question, the clue is in the words “wood screws”, @epsilonGreedy is not talking about bolts or screws with nuts (and washers of course) ?‍♂️

I disagree, it is material dependant. With metal or wood you have bolts and screws, screws have thread the whole length, bolts do not. Both require clearance holes in both pieces (and washers). With wood you can have full threaded screws or partial threaded screws , clearance hole in one or not. To clamp two pieces of wood tightly you need either partial threaded or a clearance hole in the top piece. There are special wood screws made with a different thread pitch near the head specifically for pulling pieces together.

@epsilonGreedy is talking about wood screws! and so am I !

Not in a “wood” screw it’s not ? to pull bits together with full thread requires a clearance hole in the top piece.

I used this on my west facing brick wall near the Atlantic and it was easy to use, and did a brilliant job with one coat. Tested it when dry with a hose and water ran off it like glass. ?. https://www.kingfisheruk.com/superseal-professional-water-seal-item-73#73a

I don’t know what my return temps are but logically if the return temp is close to the flow temp then the slab is up to temp!!! I remember many years ago when I started reading about ASHP and UFH that someone cited if you set the flow temp 1 or 2 degrees above required temp it would be self controlling!.

I have certainly seen a lot better, I would not be pleased if that were my house!

not wishing to question your electrician, but still might be worth testing to find out what’s wrong, Do you have a multimeter Russ? Or a testing screwdriver with a mean in the handle?

From someone I know who deals with these, most are scrapped because of rusted decks, such a shame when they can be saved with a little work. His top tip is to clean the deck underneath with a pressure washer regularly, stops grass building up like a poultice and breeding rust.

They are pretty cheap, good to have as a spare anyway, saves draining down etc, just make sure the electrics are isolated if you remove it. To check it in situ, (with the electrics on) use a multimeter or tester screwdriver (neon in the handle) and see if you have voltage both sides of the two terminals on it, it’s basically a switch that’s controlled by heat, if it’s cold it’s switched on, if it’s hot, it’s will switch off.

I really rate hammerite fir this kind of work, I actually found the right colour fir my deck when I refurbed it like you are. Direct to rust, no undercoat ?

Can only find this fir an immersion but should be the same. https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/immersionheater.htm

Yes, our tank has two!.

+1 for a vortex , although it does use electricity (so not sure how to run it off grid?, PV?) after much searching it came out top of my list and mine works very well!!!.

When we wired our place I put a loop of a power ring in a corner of the walk in wardrobe just around the corner from the bathroom basin so I could add a socket for use within the walk in wardrobe or close enough to use the bathroom basin/mirror with hairdryer etc.

Ha, was just going to post the same, they put hairdryers in swimming pool changing rooms like this!!!,

Ha, whenever was this easier? ??????

The outer structure of any roof (including dormers) needs to be water tight but not draught proof and air movement keeps timber from rotting etc. You’re insulation/draught proofing should exists on the inner section sounds like this was not done properly.

I have never heard of them being used in a domestic situation but I do remember them in our metal workshop in school so the teacher could trip anything if he saw a disaster looming. Surely decent protection fuses/trips are enough in a “home”.

yours may be for whatever reason BUT there are many of us here that have no problems with an ASHP, So don’t blame ASHP,s, blame your designer fir a system that’s not fit for purpose (as I keep on saying).

Conversely, I taught myself to drive mine (badly at first), it came with three buckets but bought a fourth fir a particular job. It’s weight was my only drawback (with my boggy ground?) I will be getting rid of mine after this summer when (if) I get the last of the landscaping done and have been told I will get most of my money back (plus they are the best “boys toys” to have, I just love using it!).