Russell griffiths

Pictures would be good, I do like looking down a drain. What sort of answer did you want ? they could be all yours, or they could be from next door. They could be rainwater, they could be sewerage, it could be a grease trap. simple answer. Lift the lids and run a tap. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. You can actually get a drain dye to put in your sink, toilet to tell what one is yours. Go on get out there.

That depends on how you view risk. If the site is covered in big holes with sharpened bamboo canes in the bottom like they used in Vietnam, then the risk of somebody getting hurt is high, if it’s a flat piece of grassland with a good quality fence all around it then the risk is low. If you are the the owner of some land you should really have some sort of cover to cover any risk, kids come on it and build a camp from some timber and stab themselves with a rusty nail in the timber, we are living in a society where everyone wants to blame someone else for their mistakes in life so better to talk with a company about your whole build and get a little bit of cover for now until you get going.

Lift the lids and have a look, run a tap and see where it comes out. Problem solved.

Go and get a washing machine drain hose joiner, I believe they are more or less the same diameter, use the joiner as a splice. Or cut that and pull it around a bit and stuff it back in the trap.

Have you thought about a commercial building with living accommodation

Are you plasterboarding directly onto the underside of the joists, a good method is to counter batten the joists in the opposite direction with 75x25 this allows you to get the plasterboard to fall on timber all the time and gets a good flat ceiling. If you do this then you won’t need to cut the ledger board down as much. Obviously you need the height in the rooms.

Get a company in called magic man, they will match the colours, and mix up an epoxy and fill it in.

If you are doing this for commercial gain and not a hobby, I would think you would struggle to get any planning for this in an urban environment. Having admitted you will need an extraction system because of the paint fumes, getting consent for this will be hard, if not impossible. Most car painters I know have all changed to water based paints due to regulations. Ive always had large workshops and storage at home and found it increasingly hard to not have the council knocking on my door weekly after a neighbour had been moaning. I would look look at how many times you actually need to come into London and find an area with good transport, but far outside the M25.

Will look fine once the decorators tidy it up. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Is there not a screw you adjust that puts more tension on the spring. Mine has this adjustment, but there not Blum 🤣🤣, but I would have thought a high end hinge would have this facility.

What’s the challenge looks like you have it sussed. I would ditch the silly bath and use a double end rectangular bath with the taps at the side and the shower at the end. Build the bath into a fully tanked box, will take up less room in a small space, you will need floor towels as the spray from the shower in a 3m room will reach every part of the room. Last house had 3 wetrooms so I have a reasonable grasp on how far the splash will go.

Won’t you always have a wet floor though ? you need a reasonable slope to a shower wet area, and it always has a degree of standing water in grout lines or any small deviation in tile texture.

No trickle vents on mine.

My door company wouldn’t supply a door unless we left 30mm clear opening at the top to allow for deflection. Its filled with insulation now and covered with an aluminium trim.

1. Talk on site and discuss 2. follow up with an e mail 3. Follow on with drawings, specification, contact numbers for local council, copies of any consent you have to connect to sewer. Whitin the first minutes of driving away from a meeting I would probably get another call from another client follow up everything, I’m afraid your just another punter in the long list of punters. The squeaky wheel gets the oil.

What is your airtight strategy you have 3 things to deal with on a window 1 fix them to stop them falling out 2 air sealing on the inside 3 weather sealing on outside 1. Use brackets, that’s sorted 2. Airtight tape or foam and sealant 3. Sealant and pvc trim, sealant and mortar, sealant only. Many ways to skin a cat as long as you get a good strategy for all 3 then that’s it.

Fook it all off and go and buy a FRANKE tap brace. You will think of me in two years time when your tap is wobbling around like a cock in a sock and think, why didn’t I fit one of those braces like that clever bloke Russell said. Pop around later and bring me beer.

My dewalt multi tool is faultless. There also fairly cheap if you already have batteries

Deleted my post as I won’t need these now. Sorry.

You will have ANTI LIFT BLOCKS these are to prevent burglars lifting the door up, you need to locate these at the top and lift the sash in a position away from these blocks, it will be a snug fit. Thats all I can think of. Im not sure if you can remove these block, fit the sash, slide the sash open and then refit the blocks. Its been a while while since I’ve done one.

Use a foam that doesn’t expand.

The tester was on site for a couple of hours. You can get smoke sticks to detect air coming in. But it’s fairly obvious when you see the test being done. If the machine says it’s at 5 then you know you have a door or window open down to 1 and you can start looking for small gaps, you can hear air whooshing in if you walk around silently. You want nobody else on site the day of the test. I found two holes in some caulking about the size of a knitting needle and I could physically feel the air coming in.

I had an airtest done as the shell was finished for £300 it answers a lot of questions and allowed me to get on without worrying

Yep block board. Ive had some reasonably expensive oak units made, and 75% of it is oak veneer mdf, the bits really on show are solid oak, the reason again is the mdf just doesn’t move.

The foam is soudalbond, you would need a hammer and chisel to get it off.