Russell griffiths

Go to toolstation and buy some drain tracing dye. You can go to all the drains onsite and pour some down and look for where it goes. The last thing you want to do is smash it up if you need it. Can it stay until your build is underway, you might have a better understanding of what it is by then.

As long as you are 100% it’s not in use, smash the top in with an excavator and fill it in with crushed stone. I did one last year. Didnt bother pumping it out. Its now under the drive somewhere.

I don’t see why the government should pay for you to upgrade your draughty 1930’s house because you haven’t done anything to it in the last 20 years. People need to be a bit more responsible for themselves. All a grant will do is manufacture loads of new crappy insulation companies

Building inspector out today, just normal plasterboard and fire sealant around the penetrations.

I butted tight to the walls with the black plastic stuff, then cut it back room by room to fit skirting and so on, as things have progressed. The black plastic is 100% useless for stopping dropped chisels and things, it is only good for spills and plaster splashes and stuff, definitely need timber boards if anybody working from steps and towers, a dropped claw hammer will make you have a heart attack.

Do not use the cling film stuff, I have seen too many posts of it not coming up well if left too long. Plastic antinox boards everywhere all taped together, then hardboard sheets in high traffic or work areas. I managed to buy 20 sheets of hardboard on Facebook from a contractor who needed to protect a sports hall floor.

I think you need to start another thread for this with diagrams, the original post is about first floor stud walls.

Get on the scaffolding with a hose pipe. Make sure to sprinkle water like rain, don’t squirt it upwards into gaps.

I think the cause of your problems might become more obvious as you strip the roof back. How about some thin ply with a grp covering, then batten and re tile.

What is the head-lap of those slates. Do you realise that as the pitch decreases you need a bigger head-lap you might even find that 16 degrees is not recommended for that product.

If you glue down the vinyl, how will you get to your access panel. Test all the pipework vigorously, then get it all screwed down. If you tested it, the chance of a leak is highly unlikely

Why are you not knocking it all down.

You won’t be able to do it, not to a good enough standard. Find a local timber window manufacturer and go and have a chat to them. Do you know the u value that was given to the sealed units as you will need this to calculate the overall u value the new windows will have.

Diagram or pictures needed you will always get a better response with a drawing added.

You need long term exposure drilling a few holes won’t kill you, relax a bit. Ive removed dozens of asbestos roofs from garages, long before we knew the risks, 35 years ago, I’m not dead yet. Lesson learned do a bit of checking in future. Hoover a bit more and chuck the filters on the vac away.

Morning. Consumer unit in its own cupboard, on ground floor. Loft room above. What sort of fire proofing needs to be done inside the cupboard to the ceiling area. the internal walls of the cupboard are boarded in pink boar, the ceiling is open at the moment. consumer unit to be fitted next week. 90% of the cables come from above and drop down vertically to the Cu. Do do I need fire collars around the cables, or is it a case of pink boarding the ceiling, and fire mastic or foam. Cheers.

I believe if you go for a wall below and a window above instead of a door and glass Juliet balcony, then the window would not be allowed to be wide open, but would need an opening restriction device fitted, unless it is also 1100mm high. 1100mm high is the height set for a balcony or anything to stop a fall from height, so a wide open window would need to be the same. I dont know if any regs change as your house gets higher as you are now in a 3 storey house. Unless of coarse your putting this on a bungalow.

I can’t see how you can achieve this and comply with building regs. You will need 100mm insulation between the rafters and 25-50mm over the face, or a different makeup, but would need to achieve a similar insulation value. This would completely hide the original rafters, so you would need to put in dummy rafter and then fit the dummy batten and tile effect. Will it be worth it ?.

how about this.

I used kingspan green guard you cannot screw into it like compacfoam but it does everything else you need. How much do you need ?

What about the look of a gentleman’s library dark maroon leather in a diamond or hexagonal pattern.

It’s definitely achievable, but you need to look at all these details and work out how much more it will cost versus a standard verge. I can see some very expensive leadwork needed for your design and also capping they could be stone or more modern aluminium or lead. I could see each end of that house being 2-3 grand more than standard. So is it £6000 nicer.

My neighbour has just done something similar ugly steel security door, drilled it full of 10mm holes and pumped in 3-4 cans of expanding foam, he then screwed oak tongue and groove boards to the face, it now looks like an old farm door, he had to add timber to the frame and pad out the architrave. It looks better than I probably described it.

Vertical aluminium planks, with a timber print on them, or composite decking the cost of hardwood is eye watering and the bottoms will suck the water up.

I’m baffled you want to look up at the roof from inside and see tiles and battens, is this correct.