Russell griffiths

Yep backer rod would work, maybe a dab of silicone on the corners as when you fold it around it will naturally have a bit of a gap, or mitre them ???

Take all the beads out and do a re test. I bet this draft is coming around the glass unit and the bead is pushing it to the corner gap. You could remove a bead and seal the unit into the frame using illbruck airtight foam, then re install the beads. I would remove one or two beads carefully, to make sure the glass is secure on packers and that it stays in place.

I haven’t done it myself, I went with a shadow gap cladding but have a search on here, I remember the downside being cost, the timber needs to be high quality to maintain the look, the membrane is expensive, and I think people experienced it getting eaten by wasps. I have a lot of wasps and always wonder what what they are chewing to make the nest, I’ve experienced having holes bored through my facia boards, so that membrane would be my big worry. I did look at a membrane that stuck on to the racking boards and preferred that to the version that is only fixed under the battens.

How are you planning on insulating the brick wall. That might influence how you build the stud wall.

Depends if you can get metric osb, if you can then build it to metric sizes. Its the arse about face country we live in. Trying to embrace the future while being firmly stuck in 1868. Have a good read up on your choice of open rainscreen cladding. I personally would avoid it, unless it’s a design you are really looking for.

California corner, allows insulation into the corner, if that’s what you need. Frame not connected at top plate, so either a double top plate or the plate holding the roof up will do. Without seeing the rest of it it’s hard to tell, probably immaterial if it’s just a bit of an out building it’s probably fine.

That sketch is very basic. It could be that’s just how you have drawn it up. For instance look at the corner and work and work out how your internal wall covering will be fitted the way it is drawn you do not have a stud to fix to, externally you do but internally you don’t. You normally do a two stud corner to turn a 90 degree, or if you want to insulate it you do what’s called a California corner. Setting it in 11mm sounds like a plan, don’t forget a weather barrier to the outside under the battens. And some sort of insect barrier to the batten area.

I have 2 holiday lets, don’t do it. If you cannot manage it yourself all you will do is pay any money earnt out for cleaners and maintenance. Everybody I know who remote owns has headaches with broken stuff on changeover day. As regards regulations, I cannot see how they could get holiday accommodation up to an epc of c the amount of shepherds huts and old mobile caravans by me is crazy. Also if a holiday property is only let for the summer then why would it matter what the epc was. We only let ours until October, so adding extra insulation seems pointless. The new fire regs are ridiculous, I know of owners with 300 year old listed cottages being told to rip out existing doors and fit fire doors and frames to all bedrooms.

Trying to buy dry straight 225 timber will be a pain, I would look at i joists for a better construction. Or twin wall as mentioned.

What do you mean, temporarily or for pouring. If temporarily then do whatever you feel needs doing. Same for the pour really, I over braced everything, but didn’t have a single issue apart from one reveal that I had actually forgotten to put screws in some timber. Half a dozen screws later it was all fixed. too much bracing??? probably. Did I have any problems?? no.

I didn’t get the braces on site until I had the whole structure up to 2.7m we had some bad wind and only lost a block or two. Start at the corners and leave some gaps out in the middle to let the wind through. You will need loads of scaffolding boards for when the braces come, I don’t think many bracing systems hire out with boards, so you might as well get 20 boards now and a bundle of batten and get it propped, ready for the bracing system.

Remove the led strip seal the cut surface re fit led strip.

Do it, tell nobody

Your concrete base needs to finish 150mm higher then ground level. If not the bottom of your external cladding will get wet from rain bounce.

Does the plywood need a fireproof board on top if fitting, electrical equipment to it. Im not sure so better check. I used 18mm osb with fermacel boards on top as it doesn’t need skimming and has a nice finish for a coat of paint before you fit anything to it.

Smash that big concrete chamber out, dig down and find the drain underground, check the drain is in working order, connect down pipe to drain. Go to pub.

Your putting the screws in too tight, before foam has gone off. Spay glue, put in place, screw very lightly to hold in place, wait for glue to cure 20mins, screw screws up. Looks good.

You won’t pay 20% vat and then claim it back if the timberframe company supplies the frame and erects it the vat will be zero rated as a new build.

Somebody tell me if I’m wrong but you can forget having a mezzanine area as a bedroom, without a fire escape route not including those stairs you wont get building control sign off. I think you need to decide what this space is for.

Now we have seen some pics, I am completely split in two different directions on this. 1.. you stand absolutely no chance of getting planning that close to those trees, trying to convince the planning is one thing, but getting a foundation system designed that the tree officer agrees to is another thing. Then you have the cost, to get a system designed that will hold the extension up but not effect a tree with a TPO on it will be pretty expensive. So it could stop everything dead in its tracks. 2. The tree was there when the original house was built, so we can presume the house foundation was designed around the tree(s). So maybe the garage sits on a very well designed foundation also, in this case you might have crossed some very awkward bridges already. If this is the case you can argue that all the work in the ground has already been done, there is already a single storey structure there, so going up another few metres isn’t going to hurt anybody. I think i would proceed with a lot more research go and find any original planning documents for the house, try and find anything relevant to foundation design. Get a local builder/ landscaper to dig a couple of trial holes to try and confirm what sort of foundation the garage sits on. If the foundation is acceptable for a two storey structure then proceed with getting some simple plans done. If the foundation is not up to par then I think this idea could be dead right now. As you could spend many thousands getting consent only to find that you then need to chuck £30,000 in the ground for a foundation system. To end up with only 30 sq metres of liveable space, it’s not a lot for your money.

Put up a pic of the house and a sketch of where the extension is to go. My initial thought is £120 isn’t enough. And if that is your budget then why would you give £15 grand away to project manage it. And why would you spend £10 grand being told you don’t have the budget. Get a small local architectural technician to do some very brief outline plans £5-600 max, ask 2 local builders to have a look and give you a ball park figure. If all is is good then go further. That is a small project and budget to spend that much on overseeing it.

As nod says, but make sure you mist coat the bare plaster again after you have sanded and filled.

Flat steel plate with multiple holes in it, available from most builders merchants, screw this to the frame to use as a bracket, not the thin builders band, these are 75mm x 120mm flat plate. You can cut it into 2-3 bits if you want.

You will want to look at changing the black alcathene pipe completely soonish. They tend to be very thin wall, and 30-40 years they start failing. I repaired my neighbours one 4 times before I convinced her to change the whole thing.

Put a bit more thought in your plumbing. You generally don’t take the water main into the kitchen anymore, normally it’s to the plant room/ cupboard. The days of having your stop tap under the kitchen sink are a thing of the past.