Russell griffiths

355m

I phoned SIGA and they sent a rep to my site, he was in a van filled with more fancy stuff than you could shake a stick at. He was very happy to demonstrate the sticking abilities of his tapes by applying them to our esp blocks and challenging me to pull them off. Not cheap, but do you want cheap, I would rather spend my money on good base materials than a wall hung toilet. My roof membrane has just cost me a little over £1500 plus vat, plus £120 in tape to seal the laps. I hope it was money well spent.

This will be a waste of time as the staff in most bm won’t know a good product if it hit them around the face.

Not fast enough. ?

Hi, I don’t think I have ever seen an introduction with so many replies, you are obviously going to be a good help to many on here. ??

Ok I will start, been avoiding it as didn’t want to sound negative. Dont put anymore of those studs in place, and stop with the electrics, you need to get your insulation method sorted first. If you go with a sheet type you need to cut it at a set width and then put your additional studs in to match the insulation, if not you will end up cutting all funny sized insulation and end up with all manor of waste. With regards the electrics,if you bury them in the insulation layer you need to consider the loads as the insulation can compromise the load carrying capacity. Have you thought of having it spray foamed.

I have just submitted an amendment to our drawings as we have changed a large steel beam in the roof, this meant a new set of calculations from the structural engineer, I hand delivered them to bc as well as sent an electronic version, in all there where 26 pages of documents for this one steel, I don’t for one minute believe that bc even looked at them, they would have just stuck it in my file and carried on with the next task.

Now that’s a good idea, 4 or 6 bricks done.

That window will be under £100 why bother running around getting a piece of glass cut, then you need to paint it forever more, buy one online and get it delivered while you get on with something else.

How about D4 wood glue, since using it on my floorboards I’m finding uses for it everyday, will tear the wood fibre apart before you separate the batten from it.

Are you sure it’s not the same mice returning, my dad did the same thing and in the end he painted all the mice he caught to confirm they weren’t returning, lots of mice running around the country with little white Mohican haircuts.

Can you try and upload pictures in a better way, I lost the will to live trying to get into drop box.

If you have a look at Jeremy blog, and stones and Peter stark I think you will find some better answers than the fake lead, I cannot see how you can make that look sharp and crisp, I think it will always look like a roll of something. I think there are a few on here who have used a folded flashing made from aluminium.

I would think it would be a bugger to fit anything to the outside insulation, ok if your rendering but no fixing points if you are cladding.

I thought you where downsizing ??. Looks excellent. How are you moving those big doors about, I’m just in the process of trying to work out how to move a 250kg window.

If the legs bolt in place it would be easy enough to change one in 10years time if a bit of rot set in, I wouldn’t overly panic.

Sounds like my brother, did he sort your bloody hole out though.

It depends on what standard you are building to, you can fill the cavity below dpc with a lean concrete mix, or a better choice would be insulation, have you got a cross section of your wall floor build up, what did you submit to building control.

I bet he’s a good looking bloke as well.

TBH nothing is secure against professional thieves, it’s the chancers you need to keep out, if you put a container on your site it is like a magnet for thieves, only leave stuff in it you can afford to lose. I have seen one opened up like a sardine tin with no power tools used, just two pairs of adjustable spanner’s used like a can opener.

I wouldn’t consider a shipping container a secure place for tools, obviously this is site dependent, but having seen them broken into many times I would only consider them good for keeping out your average chancer.

If you take down the centre wall, why would you have UFH in the new bit but not in the old bit, surely you need to make these two floors combined and have the UFH in both areas. If you don’t combine the two floors you might as well chuck a radiator on the wall What is the floor made of in the kitchen now? Why not extend that across the new bit so you have the same finish throughout.

Do you have a picture of the drain with the lid off, it could be more involved than you think to move it, depends what is connecting to it. Why not not bring your front wall over to meet the new wall, and remove the old side wall of your kitchen and make it all one room. What sort of budget do you have.

You will pay a fair premium to get it cut, if you are doing most of this slab yourself you will be better of going and getting a big grinder.

Nope, it won’t be time consuming at all if you use the proper kit, 9inch grinder will get through it in seconds, or a petrol cut off saw will do it even quicker