Russell griffiths

Why can you not fix it.

I spend a lot of time on it getting distracted by girls with not a lot on.

I will take it of your hands for a tenner.

I would just bight the bullet and buy one of those Bosch drill bits.

Can you not just move the hole ??

If your happy doing all that yourself, I don’t think you need to ask much. Crack on bud just out of interest what is the high load area holding up.

Ok I will chuck this in, why are they not connected to the slab ? why not dig out the shape, line it with the insulation board as shuttering and pour at the same time as the slab.

No 4 cannot lay flat like that, no strength in it flat, needs to be stood up and beams cantilevered over the top of it.

Go and get one of the new style sds drill bits that go through re bar. On another note if you hit re bar can you not just move the hole 150 mm away, surely you haven’t got any closer than 400 centres.

I have two holiday cabins and they both have their own treatment systems. Is there a reason to go that distance I can see it being a pain. Materials to connect it will be in excess of £800, that’s without digging the trench. You can pick up a small plant for a £1000. Is there a 3m height difference between the cabin and treatment plant. I have just installed 260m of fence and I’m visualising how long your pipe run will be.

Don’t do it, if you cut one it will stand out like dogs balls. Why can you not just carry on as you are.

Just depends where you are on the pour, if you are nearly finished you stay by the cage and top it up a bit at a time, if you have loads to do just leave him poking and move along, it’s easy to come back and give it a quick squirt to top it off.

Ha ha £600, yea that’s per week after the first month, scaffolding is the dearest thing to hire next to a crane, at least with a crane you can see £500,000 sitting in your driveway

Didn’t see any point, after it falls 2.7m vertically it doesn’t need any more vibrating. You will need to vibrate your cages VIGOROUSLY or you just won’t fill them up, this is a two man job one on the hose and one vibrating as fast as he can or you get concrete piling up and not falling through the re bar.

We hardly used the vibrator on the second pour, just lots around the cages.

Total construction supplies, mention me, it’s my footings on their website

Bearing in mind that at the corners you will need to bend a 90 degree to go around the corner or buy pre formed corners, tie it all together and it will become fairly rigid.

Piece of roof batten cut to a short length spanning across formwork, with steel hanging from it using steel tying wire, that is standard. But you could cut some short bits of steel and have it braced up from the bottom bit. Many ways to skin a cat.

bracing is very good, but it’s not made like a formula one car so it has a bit of rattling in it that you cannot eliminate until it’s full of concrete.

The bracing is all steel, but comprised of 4-5 components, so a foot plate bolted to the floor SOLID a cross brace and a brace on the wall this is all really good, what happens is all components need to be taken apart so they are fixed together with a large steel pin and a circlip. This pin has a millimetre of movement in it, multiple this by 3 pins and you get a fair bit of play. What I found is that the wall doesn’t weigh much, so you plumb it up, but it’s not really tensioned against the brace as it’s so light, you then make it really heavy by filling it with 20 tonne of concrete, it then wants to lean one way or another so it tensions up all those little 1mm of play in the pins and this is when it needs a little tweak to get it lovely and plumb. Its relatively straightforward, but don’t underestimate how many hands you will need that day. For the size of your place I think I would want 5 blokes 1 on the pump controls 2 on the hose 3 on the vibrator 4 cleaning up spills 5 running about untangling extension leads, looking for blowouts, fixing stuff. You will need string lines setup but out of the way so you can eye along the top of the wall as you plumb it. If you look at stones blog he has some good pics to show how to set the lines up using little blocks of timber at the corners, but I’m sure you know this stuff.

TBH there are thousands of them, I would look at your budget and pic one to match it, at the cheapest end you can use a roll of polythene, and at the dearest anything from SIGA. The INTELO stuff looks nice.

Nobody, except a self builder just out of interest what has your icf supplier told you to do with the bracing. We were told to lean the walls IN towards the bracing as when the concrete goes in the weight of it pulls the wall away from the brace and the whole system goes into tension. I plumbed mine 10mm out of plumb leaning hard against the braces, when the concrete was poured it was nearly perfect and just needed a tweak. As a word of caution, you can push a wall away from you but it is hard to pull one back, so lean them in, if they fall out it is a bugger to get back and you can pull the screws out.

Hi mr @magnethead what sort of dough you paying for the triton, I think I paid about £150 plus vat per 20kg bucket. I was considering painting the whole area under the timber cladding.

Have you found any type of glue stuff that sticks to eps, I would like to find something to go around gap sealing that I can squeeze out of a gun and smooth using a flat scraper

I would have thought that even if that gap was non existent you would still need to air seal it, it would never be air tight no matter how tight, so applying a tape or liquid will always be needed. I presume you will be putting a batten on the ceiling to take the ceiling finish, so this gap will end up in the void area, I would fill it with a 10mm strip of insulation then foam the life out of it then liquid seal it. Looks like a nice complete system. I have been using the triton tt, and for the sake of a tub full I would be sealing all those edges.