Russell griffiths

Bloody hell mate, there just bricks, stab them with the forks and get them moved no more thinking needed. Wait till your windows turn up, that’s the time to have a plan, no worrying needed yet.

As peter said this is exactly what I’m doing but in cedar, I’m going to pack on top of the batten to bring the corner out, any bigger than 45x45 is hard to find and a bit unwieldy.

You will break more of them yourself moving them, make sure you mix the packs up and open more than one pack at a time to ensure good colour mixing, or you can end up with a stripy house. You should get some pallets to stack them on, if you stack them on dirt you will get muddy splash on them, try to keep stacked on clean gravel or off the floor on pallets.

Had the same conversation today, told him what I’ve been told on here, he’s baffled why I want a blending valve but will send one if I’m happy to pay for it.

You should have a starter track to start the cladding, this is a metal trim with holes for ventilation but stops bugs and vermin. You can can make your own with stainless steel mesh or wool. Must have ventilation and be able to allow any moisture to escape. Lots on here have clad the bit below dpc with either a cement board or upvc or just render.

You need to look at the standard deflection rates, then specify you want it better, I wouldn’t want anything at a 10m span, and I would also really look at avoiding 600 centres. You are only going to get one chance to do that floor, spend your money on that and take £2000 out of your kitchen budget, you can always upgrade that, but you will hate a bouncy floor forever.

How much can you do yourself ?? you could get separate teams to do bits. Get the footings in then get a bricky, then a chippy then a roofer.

Would depend on your section drawing at this level, as you need to insure you don’t have a cold bridge through those blocks. If you don’t have a cold bridge then just render the blocks, if you have a cold bridge then you will need to sort that first.

@Nickfromwales this is the one on the website from the people I got my manifold, is it the same as the one you listed. It was originally on my quote but they took it off when they knew I was using ASHP. If this is cool I will get it ordered.

Thank you boys. Armed ready for another annoying phone call.

@PeterW @Nickfromwales Any thoughts chaps.

So all my bits turned up for my ufh, but I’m confused with the manifold layout, I was told if I’m fitting an ASHP I don’t need a blending valve, is this right. Who has a blending valve and who doesn’t. Confused as usual.

Black/ very dark blue.

You should be able to just bend the wall ties down, but that all depends how high you are. Use your gauge rod and mark out your brickwork, offer it up to the blocks and see if it will look ok. The place it will cock you up is lintels over openings, you need to squeeze those bed joints up to get back on track.

Have you had prices, with delivery and collection they are not cheap, as above go for a drive around and find one. We pay our farmer £30 an hour, he came every morning for an hour when I was fitting our floor beams.

I would get the iroko machined to the angles, so the cedar is square cut into the iroko. I think that will look better.

There is no standard for the counter batten. The standard for the tile batten is its strength in allowing a man to stand on it at 600mm centres without it breaking. They are coloured to show they have been graded without you having to look on each batten for a bs mark. Roof battens are cheap just buy whatever brand your merchant stocks. I would think with slate a 25mm gap is plenty as they are draughty roofs compared with say a metal sheet.

I will say what @Nickfromwales is thinking, nope don’t do it it will look poo ??. How about a vanity unit.

I’ve just finished mine I used a company called metal solutions, snap lock raised seam, Swedish product, looks the dogs danglies. I think off the top of my head it came in at £35 a meter I had 355m of it with all trims but no gutter. Big company who have just started doing this product did it all myself.

It depends how you are paying to do this job and how long it will take. If you are paying trades by the day, or are paying for rented accommodation then time is of the essence. You need the job done quickly, so get a full tin hat roof on and then you won’t loose any time on site. If you have all year to finish this job then you can dodge in and out of the glorious weather up there. My mate had a full roof on a conversation he did and said it was the best money he had spent, didn’t loose a days work.

Depends on the clay content, I used to lay tonnes of it a year and after it’s rained I wouldn’t want to walk on it and then into the house. How about bonded gravel, not cheap but nothing is anymore. We get as dug gravel from the local quarry, we are in Cirencester, it varies and sometimes has a bit of clay. Again something I wouldn’t walk on and then go indoors.

I’ve actually just done that. what i did was, find the worst bits and mark on the floor buy some high build floor level compound and chuck it in the low areas. Use eps insulation instead, cheaper and easier to work with. Lay the insulation boards down and if you don’t like the amount they rock mark them up and sand out an area on the eps so it sits over the hump better. Tounge and groove chipboard all glued together so it acts like one big sheet. 4x1 timber as a skirting board to pin it all down. Garage floor paint to keep out stains. Worked a treat, just done before lockdown so no pics I’m afraid.

I would do some sums on the sale value of the land and work out what it’s worth to you. Then make a counter offer based on the percentage sale figure. Our planning cost us just shy of £15,000 worth every penny.

So I know nothing about this, but could you make a plastic bag that is a tight fit around the cylinder, put the cylinder inside and fill it up with spray foam creating an extra layer of insulation. Is it that simple, what about all the pipe connections.

Definitely.