Russell griffiths

I’m not convinced containers is the way to go, I think they are constricting in size and require a huge amount of work to insulate, all they bring to the party is a box and it’s not hard to build a box. I would think a simple steel frame with timber panels installed in between could be far simpler.

Hire the correct props from nudura, if you can collect them you will save a fortune on delivery, you will need so few it won’t be expensive. However if your room room is so small why not brace it with 4x2 up the walls vertically then brace from wall to wall, you will need to get it spot on as you won’t have any adjustment. By the time you hire acrows you could hire the proper thing. Call your our local rep he should have a site you can go and collect a few from. Where in the country are you.

Cool, it’s ordered and on its way, I was probably worrying unnecessarily as it will never have water sitting in it, just whooshing past at 100mph. Would probably never leak even if I didn’t glue it at all.

Welcome we have a few masochist on here @ToughButterCup is the leader, just stay on his good side and you won’t get banned.

Can anybody @Onoff @PeterW recommend a glue for fitting. Brown underground drainage pipe to grey solvent weld. Ta very much.

Question for @nod I think, but please feel free to chip in @Nickfromwales just looking at height for my screed and need to work out tile heights. Can you fill in the blank thickness I need to work out. Adhesive for ditra Matt_______ mm?? ditra Matt. _______ mm ?? adhesive for tiles. _______ mm?? porcelain tiles. 10.5 mm so overall I need to allow ________ mm?? cheers chaps,

You can get a product called flowable fill, it is a lean concrete mix, just back the truck up and fill it up. £400 you didn’t want to spend but hey ho life’s a bitch.

If you haven’t yet 100% decided on your icf choice or even if your going to use icf, then I think it’s something not to worry about yet, these things are all minor details you will sort out, but no point doing it now if you suddenly decide to change manufactures. All blocks are different and reveals will all be made up differently depending on manufacturers.

Do you have a purpose in mind for this building? that is a big cost in glazing to put in a garden room for a few months use per year. The reason i say few few months is you mention single skin block, this makes me think it’s just for high summer, as the rest of the year it will be to cold to be in there. If you want this to work I think you need to outline the buildings purpose, then design it from there.

a drawing would help just a sketch.

Not sure if that makes sense.

If you made a plywood former, you could put them in the cavity, and leave them in place so when you have filled with concrete the former stays in place and your ladder rails insert into the former and you screw it to the ply former.

I would just leave a void, bigger than what you need, then after you fit the ladder fill around it with a bucket of concrete. Probably need to isolate the concrete from the timber by wrapping the timber or painting it. @willbish how did you do yours.

There is a particular easy method to avoid having to sharpen your saw. Stop blunting it. This is easy to say, but really it is easy to do. Dont cut old shitty wood. If sombody offers you a load of old floorboards that you can cut for starter sticks, say no, tell them to take it away and burn it themselves. Dont cut the floor. If you are cutting logs get a large log to use as a saw bench, cut on top of that not the floor. Dont cut the dirt, floor if cutting down an old stump, bend your knees so you use the saw parallel to the ground, look at the tip and don’t let it contact the dirt. You should be able to cut clean timber for 8-10 hours straight without needing to sharpen.

That’s a good point.

Is it not good practice to have one by the Cu also.

How? Where do I put an Earth point in the new house. Bit of background. Meter box is on the boundary with the incoming line from the dno, then the meter, then a large clunky type switch, then a cable that runs up to the new house. So question is the new cable enters the house via a duct and runs under the block n beam floor up into the cupboard with the Cu in it. Where and how do I get an Earth to the house? i thought I would have an Earth rod at the house end, but if I have a block n beam floor. Do I have the Earth rod under the floor with a wire in a duct coming through the floor, or do I have the rod banged in but it finishes above ffh to connect to the Earth cable. @ProDave @Onoff

A mate of mine is a very good small builder, keeps upto date with stuff, works on some very nice places in Berkshire. Hes doing a loft conversion at the moment and using rolls of this tecsound stuff, it looks like a peel and stick membrane that he is sticking onto acoustic plasterboard, then another layer of plasterboard on top. Any good to anybody.

Tbh @PeterW I don’t expect bed 2 or 3 to be used more than 1 week per year at Christmas.

It’s to try and keep the loop lengths under 100m if possible, if you look at the chart at the bottom of the drawing it shows loop length.

What I put as a comment about boarding the whole roof, was not really what I would do personally personally I would build all stud walls, fixed securely to underside of trusses then cross batten underside of trusses and fit electrical then board. But you asked for an opinion on your carpenters ideas.

I must admit I look at the wife’s sewing machine, it is a magical piece of machinery.

That’s really nice. I would have just used the tip of my chainsaw ??

Method A is faster for sheeting, less cuts and less wastage. Sheet the whole of the ceiling in probably half the time it would take to cut it to fit between the walls.

Why not move the boundaries to what you want and whack it back on the market project properties normally in short supply.