Russell griffiths

I don’t see the problem, drive to the builders merchants and collect eps sheets, cut to size on site and hand to the brickies. Done, the stuff jackodor sell is xps you can get that at some insulation stores but maybe an order job, eps is available in most builders merchants and even in wickes. If it wont fit in the car then use there cavity boards that are 1200x 600. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Sure that’s what I suggested. ? c,mon keep up.

The beams do not go out to the outside, that video shows cavity construction. With solid construction or timberframe your beams sit 100mm on top of 215 blocks so only halfway. @NickB flip your two blocks from the footings over so they are flat, then just one marmox block. See what hat that looks like.

I think you install a trough type arrangement, so path heights come up level but stay back from the vents so you get your airflow. You will have to have a small slope to ensure water flows away from this trough and not to it.

You cannot tape them and fill it will stand out proud and look dog rough, can you just use a cover strip over the joins, nicely rounded edges so it looks like panels. Why not do a panel configuration, so flat boards but with a raised trim at floor and ceiling and at every 1200 around the walls. You can get a plastic T shape to go in the join so it shows a 15mm wide plastic trim at each joint. Have you thought about fermacel instead of mdf.

Have you had this from somewhere or just having a scribble yourself ? looks a bit odd to me, why is it all balanced on one 100mm block whats the engineering brick for what do you mean by 140mm concrete block, 140mm wide or high, if wide how is that balanced on 100mm wide engineering brick. It might be that the drawing is just badly scaled, as it doesn’t add up to me. Would normally be larger blockwork under the block n beam with marmox block on top. So larger at footing coming up and getting thinner not the other way around. You are also also going to have a large over hang with the cladding, you could step the frame in and have external insulation over the outside. Your frame also sits very high, so there is little insulation from outside to inside if you draw a diagonal line through the drawing. Draw it up without the periscope vent as this is deceiving the picture by not showing the other row of blocks that will sit where the vent is.

This is mine, that’s with one coat mine is very bright in the sun, I have a lot of variation in colour which is how the cladding came some very light some very dark, yours looks a bit more even in colour. I did have a lad staining mine and he was using twice as much stain as me, I brushed mine out really thin, because I’m paying for it. I think mine are lighter in colour. I have an area that that I was experimenting on and sanded a bit back, it went back to bare timber in seconds, but would be a pain if you have a deep profile. All I can think of is that your original timber was very dark, then the stain is a bit heavy. Would be a load of work to sand down. Sorry not a lot of help. Just thinking a bit more, it looks like you stained it while up, did you put the two coats on in quick succession?

What product would you recommend @nod to go on to eps, but under dpc down to the ground.

Is it close enough that smells will be annoying, if not they normally just vent to the atmosphere via a 110mm pipe with a bird proof cone on top.

Get some eps 100 sheets and cut it to shape, easy with a hand saw, have them pre cut and fit them as your brickies go along. You could get them pre cut at the eps manufacturers if you where happy to do a bit of a mock up.

I found a brilliant way of getting rid of site waste. I have a list of everybody that made my life a misery over planning, and on bin day I drive around in the night and fill all their wheely bins up with off cuts of plasterboard and pir insulation, it takes a fair while to drive around all of them but gives me a warm contented feeling inside.

If you want zero maintenance I would just go brick or stone.

@tanneja we where looking at the alu clad upvc and had a couple of visits to the showroom, it wasn’t until the second visit that we noticed that the coloured wrap on the upvc does not extend into the open areas of the window, so in effect it was grey on the outside but when open you could see the white upvc in all the openings. If you know this cool bananas.

Row of blocks laid down, then build the timberframe on top of this, that will allow you to insulate the floor inside. You cannot build it straight of that slab if you are considering using it for anytime apart from the middle of summer as it will be like Siberia in there.

If your budget is stretched then I would re think Internorm, dearest quotes I had, and I have yet to hear from anybody who was happy with the fitters. If you look look at the third fitting option the windows are completely fixed to the brickwork. We used norsken they are in poole,

What’s those dotted areas on your plan are they roof lights, if they are you joists will need to be doubled up on the sides, probably need a bit of design work doing.

Can anybody point me at some real life RHI information. Who here has gone that route. What in laymen’s words is it all about. Im getting calls once a week saying I can get this I can have that, and all it screams to me is big con. I had a couple of quotes when I thought I was going ground source heat pump and they where eye watering, it all just seamed like they ramp the price up because your going to get a chunk back. What you all think.

Nope, don’t do it. Although they are bullet proof fittings, how will you get to it if it has a problem. Full length of pipe from out side to inside, in a duct just in case of problems. To prove this i have already changed my new pipe by just pulling a complete new one in through the duct. I wanted a bit more pipe to come up into the plant room so just pulled out the old and slid in a new pipe. You will not do that if you have joins or elbows.

When I was window shopping I mentioned to some suppliers at a show that I was going to do the third version in that drawing above. They all seamed very glad and gave me a big thumbs up as that really is the best way to mitigate cold spots.

Thanks all I’m confident there’s no leaks, so I will let a chunk of pressure off, the pipes in front of the patio door will be picking up some heat so will let it vent a bit.

I filled it and tested it all at 4 barr today it was showing 10 so I cracked a valve open to drop a bit off.

No expansion vessels fitted, air bleed valve on top rail, but that’s it.

Afternoon. Ufh pipes all in system bled, sitting under pressure while I wait for the screed to go down next week, why does my pressure gauge indicator show pressure increases. Is it something to do with atmospheric pressure and stuff. How high is dodgy, I was getting concerned so cracked a tap open to release some pressure. What ya reckon.

Have you exchanged contracts ?

You generally use metal web joists when you need to run lots of services, they are normally dearer than I joists, and a lot dearer than solid timber, if it’s for a roof you probably won’t have a lot of services. Also how are you insulating it, warm roof no problem all on top, hybrid- cold roof they are a pain to insulate because of the metal strutting.