Russell griffiths

Any pics, I used to do a lot of work in blackheath, many many years ago.

Have you seen the proper condensate gulley, it is like a bottle gulley but tubular with a round grid on top.

You can only install it into a fully insulated raft, otherwise you will just lose all the heat into the ground. Does your design not show this ? it needs to be insulated underneath it as well as a large insulated upstand to stop the heat traveling out of the sides.

Single block with block piers, if you want the inside walls flat you will need to go double block to have piers, single block will not stand up on its own, unless maybe a 150mm semi lightweight block.

BUT can it get you a beer from the fridge.

There’s a bit more to it than just leaving the architrave off, as that will crack over and over again, it’s something that needs looking into before you board the walls, or at least before you skim depending on the trim you use. Its certainly a more expensive job than having architrave.

Cheers @nod any idea on make.

Probably one for @nod im having a traditional sand and cement screed laid 75mm thick, I’m looking at incorporating movement joints at doorways and the junction of a corridor and the main room. Do i I just let them do a dry type joint and separate two bits of screed by cutting with the side of the trowel. Or fit a plastic type movement joint. Finished floor will will probably be tiles and I would follow this join into the tiled finish. Joints s will be hidden under door closed positions.

My I joists came with solid timber as blocking, it’s a funny size so must be factory cut to suit the joists.

I’m not really sure what regulations you are referring to but there’s nothing in a kitchen or bathroom the building inspector wants to see, not unless they are in a new build or extension. They will want to see drawings for the wall coming out and will inspect the installation of the correct support, as well as the chimney, but very little else if it is just modernising an already in place structure.

Just liked the way you can open a few inches without them protruding out too much, we still haven’t moved in but I do really like them. We had norrsken windows.

You need a dumper, moving it with the blade is stupid as you end up double and triple handling everything, dig it out and put it in its final position just once, the blade on a ,i I digger is small and you end up with it spilling out the sides, I’m currently moving a few hundred tonnes a day on my own, I can load the dumper and jump off the digger and onto the dumper, I counted what I did one day and I do on average 40 dumper loads a day driving it 200m to tip. Get the biggest dumper you can. If you can get the spoil collected from one corner why can you not get a bigger machine in through the same access. If you are getting it grabbed over a fence, get the grab lorry to lift a 1 tonne dumper over the fence for you, or take the fence down. You will have 12 loads on a grab truck, do a deal with them and see if they do plant hire, get them to deliver and lift over, they will be used to doing all sorts of strange things. How owe are you going to manage with the rest of the build.

She cannot call the police if she doesn’t live there

I think as what you are proposing is a bit of a lash up, then all you can do is have a look at them together and try it, good splodge of HB25 under each as you screw them in, as it’s just a hut I think you will just have to do a bit of experimenting.

Sorry sold it, you all had your chance. HE WHO SNOOZES LOOSES

If it’s going to be rendered and 215mm thick, just lay the blocks on there side, so you lay them flat I stead of two courses side by side. A lot easier for an amateur, no wobbly blocks they just sit flat, you won’t cut those silly bits unless you have a disc cutter as the aggregate blocks tend to smash cutting small bits. Lay the main wall on the flat and try bonding it again, again if it’s all being rendered I would probably just but up to the pillar and add a sheet of expanded metal into each course as a bonding strip. Also with the pier pier you have drawn it looks like every block is a cut, or not ?? that will be a major pain and will leave some nasty corners to render over.

Can you improve the access road, if it’s a pain for one bit of the build it will be a pain all the way through and for future living. How close can you get a concrete truck ? what about getting all the soil off site. A few quid spent now will save you thousands of hours of agro if you can drive right up to the plot.

I didn’t think you would use pir for external insulation, I thought it was all EPS if you intend rendering it. Also so don’t be to tied up with u values, you need to look at the whole build, no point having 1m thick walls and poor airtightness. Better to get it all good than some excellent and some aspects poor.

I just did mine in EPS had to use more for the same u value but price was miles better than that overpriced pir stuff. You would probably need 200mm ok if you have the height.

What I don’t understand is those bleed valves are £7 so why not just bloody put one in, instead of it being an extra.

Ok cool, should I have a pressure gauge somewhere else ?? i take it I can add the lower one later as I’m using the pressure gauge to keep pressure up to check for leaks and whilst screeding.

Fitted my manifold and it came with a manual bleed valve although an auto valve is available do I need an auto ?? Look at pic it’s the bit circled. @Nickfromwales @PeterW

What width are they?

Depends what regs you are complying with 50mm doesn’t comply with anything. Whats the room for??

Depends how low you need to go, bear in mind you will need 150mm above the finished ground level up to the damp course to provide adequate clearance. So any system will be that high before you add 2.4m walls and a roof.