Russell griffiths

Haven’t insulated colds, hots and hot return all run next to each other in same 28mm insulation. Thats is a lot of pipes @LA3222, I have another cold not on the Water softer, then another 7 hot returns i have 4 bathrooms a boot room a kitchen and a utility, so 21 runs in total. so yours is either huge or you must be running a separate hot to every tap.

@LA3222 that’s the cold, I started of with 16 colds but the basins and wc are on the same pipe so it cut out 3.

Yes wall boarded and painted, it’s one of my pet hates with unfinished walls, just because it’s the plant room. Loft above this area, ceiling will be boarded with a big letterbox cut out, then a strip cut with finger cutouts to slot around pipes.

Check this out, bit chuffed with this, never used a bender before.

Just had a bit of a rant in the plumbers merchants, I don’t understand who makes up the pricing so I went in and spent £2000 on pipe and fittings, I then went back to buy something different and the price was high so I had a moan i was told that they apply a discount on my next purchase based on what I had bought previously so the next time I buy pipe it will be cheaper i told the idiot that I won’t want anymore pipe, what I want is a discount on the bloody £10,000 I’m going to spend on 4 bathrooms.

Jack o board. Marmox.

And they wonder why I buy everything on line. I currently have around 4-5 deliveries a day and nothing is coming from a local supplier apart from toolstation for odds and sods. Im so pissed off with pricing lately that if I get my invoice for my account and it is high compared to online I just take the stuff back for a refund.

Have a look on YouTube lots of vids using the new foam core boards some as thin as 12 mm. Glue and screw as you have mentioned. If you need more room you will need to hack the plaster off one wall.

Whoopie, i said seven

If you look up the tile make, the manufacturer normally has details of how high the facia should sit in relation to the battens, it normally sits 20-25 mm higher than the rafter tails. Do a mock up and look look at it side on,you will soon see if they are hanging low or kicking up.

You will need to up that insulation level as 100mm is a very low spec and in keeping with the time your foundation was put in, you need to allow at least 150mm plus 50-80mm of screed depending on type of screed, then finish floor. So that means your finished floor will be 250mm higher than the concrete you have in your pics.

Have you considered a timberframe up the top. Have you got the room to put a timberframe inside the stone walls downstairs.

Rustic junk. ?? i think tile style on the floor can make a wet room fit in, limestone in smaller sizes looks nice I think. I like the mcalpine stuff very very robust and some good design details. The one I chose you can raise the height of the tiles by adding in a plastic disc spacer, so if you change you mind on tiles after installation you just bump it up a bit.

I cannot see how this will work, unless you are getting all your stone cut to a regulated size how will you keep a nice regular face, the stone will be all different widths which you then lay to a nice line by having more or less poking backwards into the cavity.

Will that not look a bit modern in your place, not that I know what your place looks like I’m just going by the flagstones and sash windows. Ive just fitted one from mc alpine, you screed it in then tanking membrane goes over the top before tiles. Second house I have used them in, good bits of kit but a bit expensive for some plastic and a couple of stainless screws.

Looks good from my house. ??

Thanks all will talk to the sparky.

Any idea what is added at the CU to do this.

Is surge protection still a thing??? im planning location of sockets at the moment and have got to my wife’s office, it will be full of all computer type stuff, so should the computer go through a surge protection socket of some description. Also what about television and stuff located in the front room.

Reading that it looks like the bloke didn’t put it on thick enough, I also don’t think you use the accelerator any more. I phoned the technical helpline and they told me that they do not recommend the accelerator anymore as roofers could not work out the amount correctly, they said as long as it was 5 degrees and rising you could install. I did it on a day that was 7 rising to 10 degrees, I had it all on by 3 pm and it was picking up starting to go by then, by the morning it was like a sheet of rubber. I haven't actually looked at it since I did it.

@Rainmaker cannot help with prices, I have absolutely no idea how many m I have, I had a budget and they came in under budget with better spec glass than I thought I would get, so I bought them. They have been in since January, but we are not in the house yet, I fitted them myself apart from the lift n slide door, and I wish I had done that as they charged me £2000 to fit that and a big triangle window the fitters where nice lads, I just didn’t like spending £2000 for one days work.

Can only help a bit, I have norrsken and really like them, went to look at rational and cannot understand why so many people buy them.

Fark me, the thickener was £65 for a litre, I think I used 150ml, so that is a right con but if you build the £65 in with the total amount to do the whole job 25kg desmopol. £175 1 litre thickener £65 matting £40 so £280 did 10m plus 7m upstand.

Do you have a pic from the outside

I used the fleece membrane, just like glass fibre mat really, you get a thickening product that you mix in to do the upstands, it removes the self levelling properties exactly the same process as grp but without mixing in the catalyst.